2011 LR4 Misfire/rough idle

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andy727

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FWIW, I run my 2012 w 115k down to “<10 miles to empty” all the time. I guess I like to maximize my fill-ups lol.

I ran out of gas one time at 40-50k miles and can attest that the miles to empty readout on the dash is dead accurate!
 

TheDave

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@DouglasH, it’s the 5.0l v8

@andy727, there may or may not be much legitimacy to the theory of burning the pump up when running the tank empty. I probably should’ve tried to fact check that info after reading it on the forums...

As an update, the truck has sat for a few days (aside from a few startups) and I’m planning on replacing plugs this weekend. Starting to think it is the injectors though. When I start the truck, it seems to idle fine for a few seconds and then you start to feel the misfire, almost like the plugs are dry to start and then get flooded with fuel, seeming to cause over saturation. Regardless, I’ll do the plugs first and go from there. Already added more fuel and an antifreeze additive to the tank with no change so far.
 

ktm525

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Are you throwing any codes?

Leaking injectors is the opposite problem. They leak fuel into the cylinder when off so at start there is too much fuel and then it clears. Perhaps the whole bank is open? The individual injectors would stop the flow though.
 

TheDave

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Finally got around to changing the plugs and managed to read the codes. Still showing misfires in cylinders 2,4,6,& 8 (all driver’s side).

Codes: (P0)302,304,306,308,300 (random/multiple cylinder misfire), and 316 (engine misfire detected on startup).

Any ideas on what could cause just one side to misfire like that?
 

TheDave

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Something with the fuel injectors?

I was reading on another forum a guy mentioned it was his o2 sensor on the driver side. Very similar situation. I’m gonna try to find more info on that.
 

TheDave

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Anyone have any experience changing out the oxygen sensor? It’s not so much the sensor that’s hard to get to as much as it is the plug behind the heat shield. It’s the driver side sensor.
 

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