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2012 V8 vs 2016 V6

Discussion in 'LR4' started by Robbouchard, Apr 30, 2021.

  1. gsxr

    gsxr Full Access Member

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    If you already replaced the timing chain components, you shouldn't have to worry about that problem reoccurring, if your oil change intervals (and oil choice) are correct.

    If you are nervous, schedule the coolant crossover pipe (and possibly water pump) replacement every X miles, along with flushing/replacing the coolant every X years. I'm still very suspicious that the plastic pipe failures are related to the excessively long coolant change interval, 10 years / 150kmi:

    upload_2021-5-3_8-10-8.png
     
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  2. txfromwi

    txfromwi Well-Known Member

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    Can you please post that procedure? Thanks!
     
  3. gsxr

    gsxr Full Access Member

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    See attached PDF. I would ONLY attempt this if you have a vacuum coolant fill tool. I've read too many horror stories about bleeding air pockets; the vacuum tool eliminates this problem. Worth the cost and should be far less than whatever the dealer charges. However, I would buy the antifreeze from the dealer, it's not that expensive (~$25/gallon) relative to a $15k engine replacement.
     

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  4. txfromwi

    txfromwi Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, yes, I just bought a vaccuum tool. Looking forward to using it on the Nissan as a test run.

    Prestone says it's OK for all cars. Had been planning to use that, but open to buying LR brand.
     
  5. txfromwi

    txfromwi Well-Known Member

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    Is there a procedure for the 3L V6 (2016), or is this one similar enough?
    I have the V8 (2013) and the V6 (2016).
     
  6. gsxr

    gsxr Full Access Member

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    Prestone wants to sell antifreeze and is not responsible for your engine failure. If you don't have a local LR dealer, or their price is crazy, you can buy online and have it delivered. FCP has it for $27/gallon, free shipping for 2 gallons (over $49).

    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/land-rover-engine-coolant-antifreeze-genuine-rover-rov-lrn2279


    Note that although the DRY FILL spec is ~16L, you can never fully drain all the coolant out. I haven't done this yet and don't know how much is typically drained, but measure what comes out and expect to get about the same amount back in. I'd guess you may get 12-13 liters/quarts out when draining from all the ports shown in the FSM procedure.


    I'm not sure about the V6 procedure but I expect it is similar (again, use vacuum filler). The factory manual I have only covers the V8 engine, not the SCV6.
     
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  7. txfromwi

    txfromwi Well-Known Member

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    I have been looking at those manuals.

    I can get them for each individual year, or get one that covers all the years.
    Recommendations on which option is best?
    Getting Each year 2013 and 2016 is about $36 and just getting the one that covers all years is $18.
    Not concerned about cost, more concerned with the combined manual not being as detailed
    And where did you get yours.
    Thanks
     
  8. gsxr

    gsxr Full Access Member

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    I think I got my V8 service manual from a link posted on this forum, it's a ~270MB file to download. No cost, IIRC. However I'm not sure if an equivalent free-download option is available for the SCV6. If anyone knows of one, I'd like to add that to my collection. :)

    For the parts catalog (Microcat), I had to buy it from an eBay seller... wasn't terribly expensive but is a drive hog, ~10GB or so. Handy for looking up part numbers so you're not at the mercy of notoriously-inaccurate vendor catalogs.
     
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  9. MW3Designs

    MW3Designs Full Access Member

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    As for the timing chain issues on the V8, is it just the tensioners / guides that are the issue and what needs to be replaced?
     
  10. djkaosone

    djkaosone '11 LR4 HSE LUX 5.0L V8

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    It's mainly the timing chain tensioners and guides. After a certain point, the tensioner doesn't fully extend the piston to push against the guides and causes the loose chain. The chain can stretch too.

    Here's a guide that goes through swapping it out. https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/diy-timing-chain.31050/

    While you're in there, I'd highly recommend doing everything at once, cooling (pipes, pump, and coolant swap to dexcool), spark plugs, injectors, and (debatable) walnut blasting the valves.

    If you can wrench, you can do this. It seems daunting, but it's doable. I took my sweet time in my garage, 4 months from cracking it open, waiting on tools, working sections at a time, waiting on parts, and when it started it was all worth it!

    I've been through a lot of trails and terrain. I now have the confidence to take it out and work on it in the field.

    Btw... V8 1000% like others said. The scv6 has a turbo lag that I don't care for, nor the eco stop/start, and the worst part is that it has the same or more issues than the v8. Still too new for everyone to see issues, but they're showing up like start/stop battery electrical issues, crank snapping, and probably more.
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2021
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