2012 V8 vs 2016 V6

hickersb

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If you already replaced the timing chain components, you shouldn't have to worry about that problem reoccurring, if your oil change intervals (and oil choice) are correct.

If you are nervous, schedule the coolant crossover pipe (and possibly water pump) replacement every X miles, along with flushing/replacing the coolant every X years. I'm still very suspicious that the plastic pipe failures are related to the excessively long coolant change interval, 10 years / 150kmi:

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Curious about your thoughts on the mechanism.... I would think high temperatures would break down plastic, thus the part fails especially where it mates up with the block and has the highest heat transfer.

You are thinking metals leech into the coolant which then attack the plastic?
 

MW3Designs

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It's mainly the timing chain tensioners and guides. After a certain point, the tensioner doesn't fully extend the piston to push against the guides and causes the loose chain. The chain can stretch too.

Here's a guide that goes through swapping it out. https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/diy-timing-chain.31050/

While you're in there, I'd highly recommend doing everything at once, cooling (pipes, pump, and coolant swap to dexcool), spark plugs, injectors, and (debatable) walnut blasting the valves.

If you can wrench, you can do this. It seems daunting, but it's doable. I took my sweet time in my garage, 4 months from cracking it open, waiting on tools, working sections at a time, waiting on parts, and when it started it was all worth it!

I've been through a lot of trails and terrain. I now have the confidence to take it out and work on it in the field.

Btw... V8 1000% like others said. The scv6 has a turbo lag that I don't care for, nor the eco stop/start, and the worst part is that it has the same or more issues than the v8. Still too new for everyone to see issues, but they're showing up like start/stop battery electrical issues, crank snapping, and probably more.


Did you change the timing chains themselves? If not do you need the cam lock tool to do the tensioners / guides?
 

djkaosone

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Did you change the timing chains themselves? If not do you need the cam lock tool to do the tensioners / guides?

I checked my old chains for stretch, comparing it to the new chains, and they were still perfect.

Yes, you'll need and want to cam lock it, because you don't want to mess up timing. That was my entire issue for not starting up and I ripped it apart about 5x, then I found that my cam lock tool kept hitting something that wouldn't let me seat it properly. Even though I was able to "lock" it with the actual tool, it was locking 1 edge of each cam and was still able to rotate without me noticing. I ended up using a 1/8th aluminum flat bar (it was laying around) to line the intake and exhaust cams up and just used that to "lock" it in place.
 

MW3Designs

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I checked my old chains for stretch, comparing it to the new chains, and they were still perfect.

Yes, you'll need and want to cam lock it, because you don't want to mess up timing.

So you did replace the chains as well.

I have a leaking valve cover on the passenger side, and it’s finally getting to be more than a drop on the driveway once in a while. Figure since getting the injectors and valve covers off is the most of the work might as well to the tensioners guides and possibly chains.
 

BostonBill

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I haven’t experienced the “lag” some are talking about on the SCV6. Superchargers don’t really lag compared to a turbocharger. My last car was also supercharged so maybe I’m just used to it. I’ve also had turbocharged cars and that lag is very noticeable.

As far as power on the V6 I haven’t been disappointed and I’m coming from an Audi S4. Only test drove a couple V8’s so I don’t have much experience with them.
 

ktm525

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The V6 just has less and feels a little "soft" off bottom. This is partially masked by the 8 speed but not completely. If it really bothers someone there is always the option of a tune an/or pulley which will bring the power back up and then some.
 

BostonBill

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The V6 just has less and feels a little "soft" off bottom. This is partially masked by the 8 speed but not completely. If it really bothers someone there is always the option of a tune an/or pulley which will bring the power back up and then some.

Yeah those were popular options in the Audi world. Saw a tuner in Texas that offers a crank pulley upgrade with tune. Just not sure I’d trust it with these engines. The numbers are impressive though.
 

jlglr4

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I think Fuji4 on this forum has been running a tuned pulley for quite a while with no problems. And I believe the same SCV6 was used in the jaguar tuned up to about 380 hp right out of the factory.
 

djkaosone

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So you did replace the chains as well.

I have a leaking valve cover on the passenger side, and it’s finally getting to be more than a drop on the driveway once in a while. Figure since getting the injectors and valve covers off is the most of the work might as well to the tensioners guides and possibly chains.

I actually had the new chain and checked the old one against the new one and decided to reuse the old chain and keep the new one for my next timing chain tensioners and guide refresh.

You're absolutely right about getting the tensioners, guides, and chains done while you're half way doing the job anyways. Also, change out your pcv valves along with the valve cover gaskets. There's an inexpensive kit for it.
 

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