2016 LR4 Coolant Crossover, Water Pump, Thermostat Replacement

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jlglr4

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I did try to clean up the backs of the intake valves some when I was in there. I did not have a walnut blaster, and it’s a real PITA trying to do it with picks and carb cleaner, leaning down over the engine and trying to make sure nothing gets into the cylinder. Not sure how much good I really did.
 

DiscoLR4

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Spark plugs - I haven’t done them yet, but I don’t think you really gain much by having the SC off, so I’d probably leave it unless you know they need to be changed.
That is true. I can do later as well, although there're a bunch of hoses and fuel lines that are off, just feels like a bit more room.
 

16FujiDisco

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and the waterpump.
Yep, I forgot this too. Basically anything coolant related while you have the system open.

I haven’t done plugs; I believe they are iridium and last for 100k+ mi. I don’t think you would be wrong for doing it while I’m there, but may not be a big advantage
 

DiscoLR4

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Quick question to all - how important is a vacuum fill for the final coolant fill? I'll need to buy the vacuum tool and an air compressor, need to figure out how to use it, etc. Just added expense and time... Could I not just fill tank, turn on car, as coolant level goes down, add more again and keep repeating until all air pockets are out?
 

DiscoLR4

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I did a manual bleed. its a little more complex than just fill and run. need to get reservoir up about 2 inches so its higher than highest bleed point. posted the procedure here: https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/bleeding-coolant-woes-help-needed.43299/#post-230151
Hi @jlglr4 , thanks for posting the manual bleed method. In the process of carrying out the method right now (2015 my) and it appears the first port to bleed is the top of radiator. Ant idea why that is the first one before front crossover? (Coolant tank raised more than 1.5"). Does it matter if the sequence of ports are different than mentioned in your post?
 

DiscoLR4

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No worries, manual bleed worked (I think). So yes, my sequence was different (radiator first, than front crossover and then by the battery). Also, I was able to raise coolant tank almost 2 inches and had coolant coming out of all 3 bleed points without needing to start the car. I still started the car and left back bleed points loose. It hissed and coolant got sucked down in the tank - I tightened the bleed screw and soon hot air was blowing.

Overall, manual bleed was really fast. Coolant level didn't drop a lot. I test drove the truck and gauge says engine heat at normal level. I'll drive some more tomorrow and see how the trucks engine temp holds up (or down).
 

Turismo Kid

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Hey Dan @txfromwi and @Turismo Kid , I took this pic just to share with you (see below). Thanks to Dan's through explanation, I was able to detach in less than 5 mins

But don't worry, "there was much sadness" for me too, on various other items. In particular, everything to do with rear manifold. How the heck do you all get back there? I always seem to be resting on my gut and hurting bad to try and get anything done back there.
5 minutes is amazing to disconnect that awful little guy! Nice work. But yes even with pulling all of that stuff off, getting anything done on the back side of that engine is an exercise in patience and pain tolerance.
 

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