Active Suspension issues after replacing rear upper control arms

[NatesLR3s]

I am new to Land Rovers and im hoping i can get some help. I have a 2008 Rover LR3 that i am having issues with the active ride suspension on. I replaced the rear upper control arms, and a couple of air lines running off the compressor and once i plugged back in the battery every bag aired out except for the driver side rear. Its stating the active suspension cant be controlled at this moment and is "locked out". I am not sure what could have caused this issue but i am hoping to get some help.

 

[Houm_WA]

Why the upper rears? Haven't heard too many instances of those failing in 15 years of LR3 ownership.

Do you have an IIDTool or some other code reader? Is the EAS throwing a code? Where/how is it telling you that you're locked out? May want to recalibrate.

 

[remember5]

These two issues seem unrelated to me. When you do a suspension component change like control arms or whatever it can require a calibration - symptoms are once you start rolling at some point the system gives a red suspension failure and you drop to the bump stops. You can clear codes but once you start rolling again the same error pops up. The error is not the one you're getting. I would check all the connectors because if your system worked correctly before you replace the air lines I would think it would continue to work unless you have something crossed up or as I said there is a connector that you didn't get plugged back in tighly.

 

[Chris Moffitt]

Go to your local Walmart or dime store and get a bottle of bubbles from the toy aisle. Pour the bubbles into a spray bottle. Add a few drops of blue food coloring. Spray your VOSS fittings liberally and look for bubbles. VOSS fittings are difficult to remove and are not meant to be reused. If you have a leaky fitting, spray a little silicone lube into the collar. Then only remove the top of the fitting. Go slow and don’t torque the plastic air line. Once removed, gently use a flat blade screwdriver and pry the brass collar off. Pull the male end off the air line and finish removing the female end. Inspect the plastic air line for damage. The correct application of VOSS fittings is to install them as a single unit into the strut complete with the removable plastic assembly guide. Once installed (do not use thread lock or Teflon tape) remove the plastic guide and insert the air line seating it completely into the fitting. I believe the torque specs are very low on these. Something like 7.5 newton meters for the 2 halves of the fitting. I can’t remember where I ordered my VOSS fittings from. Try contacting Lucky8. They fixed me up with some VOSS couplers. As for your Error messages, you need to pre-load your bushings before final torque by jacking up the control arm to normal ride height by measuring vertically plumb between the center of the hub to the wheel arch. Lastly... you need to re-calibrate the ride height. This should be done after ANY AND ALL suspension work. Even after replacing tires. The cheapest alternative I’ve found is the Autel MaxiAP 200. It does ride height calibration and more. It runs in the $70-80 range and has lifetime service functions for 1 vehicle included. I’ll post a pic of my ride height meter stick rig that I made for about $20

 

[Chris Moffitt]

Also, check your ride height sensors for physical damage and loose wires

 

[Chris Moffitt]

The meter stick is from Amazon. I think it was around $12. The center cap was from eBay. There’s a circular molding mark on the backside that’s dead center. Remember to orient the mm side to the outside face of the center cap

 

[lmgcr]

Hi, i got a similar problem on a 2005 LR3, changed rear upper suspension bushings and front shock as well. I start riding, once you pass 40 mph, red light for suspension comes on and drops to the bumps immediately. Tried calibrate, tried changing all sensors, all three blocks, now I am about to change the module, but this doesn't make sense at all, I should be missing something. No leaks, calibrate suspension everytime

 

[remember5]

Hi, i got a similar problem on a 2005 LR3, changed rear upper suspension bushings and front shock as well. I start riding, once you pass 40 mph, red light for suspension comes on and drops to the bumps immediately. Tried calibrate, tried changing all sensors, all three blocks, now I am about to change the module, but this doesn't make sense at all, I should be missing something. No leaks, calibrate suspension everytime

There is a calibration routine you do with your gap or black box tool and also a steering wheel reset. I did both and my susp. error finally went away but it did take several times. Not sure what I was doing wrong.

 

[Houm_WA]

@Imgcr what tool are you using to do the recalibration? Your symptoms sound like a cross articulation fault for sure. How do you know that your calibration is correct?