Any DIY tips out there on replacing a 2016 LR4 SCV6 Thermostat Housing?

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thebruce

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Yes, that's it. The part number is also in the video in the beginning in the parts list.

If you can actually get that old thermostat/hose bit please let us all know how!

I replaced the entire lower hose, no sense spending the money and then not replacing.

Note that Rover hoses come with the camps pre-positioned and locked open, that is very helpful.

Depending on your schedule you could try to take it apart and then purchase only if necessary.

I see AB is $150 and I paid, as I recall $250 at the dealership, but then I did not have time to wait and the dealership is literally 2 miles from my place...

Just a quick note about AB, if you are clicking around too fast it is easy to mistakenly purchase after-markets rather than genuine Rover parts.
Always double check !

@txfromwi appreciate the video and info. very helpful. I just finished this job today. it wasn't hard, it was just tight space and crappy hose clips that don't lock open. Hose clamp pliers a must. I was able to get the coupling removed with some aggressive persuasion. I asked a mechanic at the dealer and he said they will come off, you just need to work at it. I put some WD40 in the joint then put it in a vice. I tapped around it with a rubber mallet to try to break the seal. I then wiggled back and forth. Then I got a punch and tapped around the edges, then tapped some more. Finally came loose.

I need to bleed it tmrw. I got an air bubble in it. Any tips appreciated.
 

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thebruce

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Still having a difficult time getting the system bled. I've tried a couple times and the coolant is rising when I increase the throttle to 2k or 3.5k (and no heat), so I think that means an airlock. It drops back down immediately when I turn the car off.

I followed the instructions incorrectly the first time (because the instructions in the workshop manual suck.) I had all the bleed screws open while the engine was running. I've also not able to get the bleed plug on the cross over pipe off. I was worried I was going to break the clips.

I mostly followed it the 2nd time, still with the cross over bleeder on, but no luck. Im taking it over to a shop to see if them can vacuum it. The dealer wanted $600 for that...




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f1racer328

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You can buy a vacuum bleeder for about $80

OEMTOOLS 24444 Coolant System Refiller Kit, 5 Adapters, Eliminate Trapped Air, Test Radiator and Heating Core Lines for Leaks, Vacuum Fill Coolant Tool, Vacuum Leak Tester, Multi https://a.co/d/4VWuom8

This is the one I have. I’ve only used it once but I don’t have any complaints.
 

thebruce

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It worked itself out. I let it sit for a while with the cap off and then by the time I drove it to the shop to get it looked at the heat was working. appreciate all the help.
 

16FujiDisco

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Last time I had everything apart I actually got the bleed started by blowing in the tank with bleed caps off to get the air out; actually worked really well. Then ran the heat full blast to circulate and only had to top off just a bit.
 

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