Houm_WA
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$1800 for the part; 18 hours shop time to R&R.
...anyone have to change their oil pan yet?
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mbw
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18 hours?!?! hows that?
Houm_WA
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...apparently they have to drop a bunch of stuff.
I agree, $3600 is expensive to replace an oil pan. I think I paid around $1000 to replace the oil pan on my old allroad when it was damaged by road debris.
I read somewhere that on the LR3 it's not just a metal pan. The 4.4 engine is built like a Jaguar racing engine where the oil pan is an integral part of the engine and supports the crankshaft.
Big repairs like this are when you decide if you want to keep it or trade it. I like our LR3 enough that I just put $3K in suspension parts into it including both front hubs (whining bearings) new control arms, tie rods, ball joints, bushings and more.
I guess it comes down to paying for repairs & maintenance on our LR3's or making car payments on a new vehicle. Either way we pay.
I read somewhere that on the LR3 it's not just a metal pan. The 4.4 engine is built like a Jaguar racing engine where the oil pan is an integral part of the engine and supports the crankshaft.
Big repairs like this are when you decide if you want to keep it or trade it. I like our LR3 enough that I just put $3K in suspension parts into it including both front hubs (whining bearings) new control arms, tie rods, ball joints, bushings and more.
I guess it comes down to paying for repairs & maintenance on our LR3's or making car payments on a new vehicle. Either way we pay.
Houm_WA
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Paul....totally agree. These are decision points for sure. I LOVE my LR3 and can't imagine driving anything else. I figure I spend an average of $200/mo on maintenance which is a lot less than a new car of equal coolness.
That said, it's the cost of the repair and the perceived complexity of the part/labor that is compelling in this case. Indeed it's called "structural sump" but that price tag is extraordinary.
I will "fix" the problem....but not by replacing the pan. There is another way. I'm going to re-design the plug.
More later...
That said, it's the cost of the repair and the perceived complexity of the part/labor that is compelling in this case. Indeed it's called "structural sump" but that price tag is extraordinary.
I will "fix" the problem....but not by replacing the pan. There is another way. I'm going to re-design the plug.
More later...
Quick Drain
This is a link to a site that offers what they call a "quick drain". I have something like it on on the pan of my Lycoming O-320 aircraft engine for years now.
I note under the British Cars section, while they cover some Land Rovers, a valve for our 4.4 AJV8 engine does not see to be provided.
http://www.oildrainvalve.net/
This is a link to a site that offers what they call a "quick drain". I have something like it on on the pan of my Lycoming O-320 aircraft engine for years now.
I note under the British Cars section, while they cover some Land Rovers, a valve for our 4.4 AJV8 engine does not see to be provided.
http://www.oildrainvalve.net/
Houm_WA
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Yeah I'm looking into something like that; not sure I'll use a valve or just an extentsion with another cap. It doesn't have to be "made for the LR3." The plug is an SAE standard fine pitch 5/8" thread.
Hell you could probably pay that company to make you a custom one for less than it would cost to buy a new pan.
Hell you could probably pay that company to make you a custom one for less than it would cost to buy a new pan.
made for LR3
I suppose the problem with saying a particular Quick Drain model applies to the LR3 is that one would have to cut a hole in the skid plate to accertain that the skid plate and drain could not contact each other.
As such, that requirement precludes one listing a suitable drain but as I suppose you will have to cut a hole regardless, then you have lots of options.
I suppose the problem with saying a particular Quick Drain model applies to the LR3 is that one would have to cut a hole in the skid plate to accertain that the skid plate and drain could not contact each other.
As such, that requirement precludes one listing a suitable drain but as I suppose you will have to cut a hole regardless, then you have lots of options.
