Camshaft regulator failure - advise needed

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audioslave

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Ladies and gentlemen, I need your advice.

Looks like my rover f'ed me up today big time.

i was driving down the road when I got a flashing CEL with restricted performance, which is never good. I stopped immediately, pulled the codes - misfiring bank 1 with cam sensor codes. Briefly started the engine again, and based on the sound, something was really off with the timing.
I towed the car home and started the disassembly.

Cylinder 1 - the spark plug was really wet, cylinder 2 - looked fine.
Boroscoped the cylinders 1 and 2. see the pics. cam sensors had some magnetic metal on them. And when I got to the cam gear, I realized why... see the video. One of the cams was moving side to side. The oil filter was also full of forbidden glitter.

The car has 145k miles on it. I've owned it since 102k miles.
Timing chains were done at 104k miles.
Under my ownership, the car was meticulously maintained. oil changes every 5k miles etc.

my question to the community is:

is it saveable? or worth saving, given that i will have to invest in parts ( I will DIY it).
car has new brakes and all the control arms. The gearbox has new solenoids and Sonnax zip kit installed. It was a very solid truck right until that happened.
 

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scapistron

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You might be able to get away with a new head and timing chain. Depends on if the glitter caused any other scoring from the metal.
 

audioslave

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thanks guys, i still need to remove the valve cover to assess the extent of the damage and what caused that.
but this kind of failure is wild....i expected a lot to go wrong, but not this
 

BBLR3

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Couldnt see the video, but based on your description with the camshaft, it sounds like it broke and the metal particulates you are seeing are a result of the the piecce thats still attached to the timing chain spinning against the other half which is not moving (thats my guess anyway). With that much metal going through the engine, I wouldnt trust the bottom end to last, so I certainly would not invest in trying to fix the top end at this point. I think if you want to keep it, its a new longblock engine assembly. Otherwise you find another LR4 for a reasonable price and the current one becomes a parts donor. I guess its all about how much you love the existing one and are willing to invest in it.
 

audioslave

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Well, I have found the issue.
exactly as BBLR3 described.
Honestly, I now have more questions than answers.

Is that a known issue? I'm struggling to find any info on that...

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ugmw177

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i don't believe this is a common occurrence with the AJ engines. I agree with the others that think there is probably enough swarf circulated through the engine that unless completely disassembled and rebuilt, would probably not sink $$ in the top end.
 

audioslave

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i don't believe this is a common occurrence with the AJ engines. I agree with the others that think there is probably enough swarf circulated through the engine that unless completely disassembled and rebuilt, would probably not sink $$ in the top end.
totally. The engine is toast, that's for sure. There are some piston-to-valve contacts, so this LR is done. and it's not worth spending money on the new engine...

if someone needs a parts car in the Cincinnati area, let me know ;)
 

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