Diy timing chain

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djkaosone

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Fyi... I finally got it running!

Here's a couple of key notes. Timing is not at TDC, its BTDC (before top dead center). To find TDC, remove the spark plug on cylinder 1, stick a dowel in the cylinder, turn the crankshaft clockwise until the dowel is at the highest point. On the back of the cam shafts, there is a milled line on both intake and exhaust, fit the cam lock or a flat bar back there, but you'll need to turn the crankshaft about 5-10 degrees counterclockwise. You'll need to do this on both sides.

Now you can mark your crank pulley or harmonic balancer at the 6:00 position, lock the starter, and insert your crank position tool to fully lock everything down for the correct timing.

Mine was off by 5-10 degrees or 1-2 tooth off at the crank and didnt fire correctly.

Now you know...
 

blake aiken

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Will you be renting out the tools for this job?

I do a lot of timing jobs on e46 m3’s but this ford 5.0 looks like a complete nightmare.
 

atlanticbritish

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Will you be renting out the tools for this job?

I do a lot of timing jobs on e46 m3’s but this ford 5.0 looks like a complete nightmare.

No plans to rent the tool sets, sorry.

We used to do that but it became more of a headache than it was worth. Tools not coming back on time or coming back broken, etc.
 

Tirebiter

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Good afternoon all, I have been performing my due diligence concerning the dreaded timing chain tensioner issue and have found this thread most informative. Many thanks to @djkaosone for the excellent documentation of his adventure that leads the rest of through the valley of darkness with a clearer understanding of what awaits us.

I have a couple of comments for those who are trying to ascertain the condition of their tensioners and chains. Like others, I first used the slop test via the oil filler cap where the results indicated a tight chain using a screwdriver to press down on the chain...it seemed to be rather taught. I also purchased an OBD II code reader as I had read somewhere that when the chain gets past a certain amount of stretch, the cam/crank positioning sensors will throw out timing codes. That too was negative.

With a sense of relief, I then ordered up a new fan clutch for they are known to give off a similar clacking noise as they go bad. Sad to say, that the new clutch failed to eliminate the sounds.

So today I went back through the checklist...OBD codes, negative; Oil filler slop test positive...a good 1/4" of movement in the chain! For good measure, I subsequently found one other test: with the engine idling, briefly remove the oil filler cap and listen. You will definitely hear the chains rattling around from the open orifice if they are loose.

It appears that the chain slop test can give you erroneous results depending on how the engine comes to rest after it has been running. It may also be contingent on whether or not the engine is cold or warm. So beware of the chain slop test and give it more than one check.
 
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ryanjl

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Just FYI, the fuel injectors on this engine are also noisy, and can make a rhythmic clicking noise.
 

Tirebiter

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I see from reading here that the chain tensioner problems were fixed in the MY 2013 Rovers. My question is, where was the original problem? With the tensioners, the chains or??
 

djkaosone

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I see from reading here that the chain tensioner problems were fixed in the MY 2013 Rovers. My question is, where was the original problem? With the tensioners, the chains or??
It was mainly the tensioner and tensioner guides. Oh and the '12 and up versions had version 2, which are seeing less problems. I heard that there is a version 3 in the works.
 

Tirebiter

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Thanks, the vehicle only has about 62K and if getting 6+ winters out of a set of Hakkapelliitta's says anything, it basically has been driven on the sedate side of the spectrum.

Which is to say that I am weighing pros and cons of going the relatively short route of changing the tensioners/guides only. I would like to get the job over and done with in short order to minimize down time this winter.
 

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