For those that offroad their LR4...a few questions before I pull the trigger

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

avslash

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2011
Posts
1,255
Reaction score
1,101
Location
The Lone Star State
Most just cut the AL hard pipe and use 5/8 heater hose to reroute. This is what I did and have no adverse issues to report.

Some report being able to bend the existing pipes and make it work, but some have reported breaking them while attempting this.

@jwest is running an LR3, I believe. If you are going to the trouble of swapping calipers, I would go all in and swap the rotors and carriers to be able to run 17s.

I think you would need to swap all those bits anyway to get the 18inch LR3 wheels to work without spacers/grinding.

You need the limit straps or the HD CV joints per L8. I have them on mine with no complaints, thus far. If I need to replace in the future, I would go the HD route and remove them, though.
 

jwest

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Posts
2,041
Reaction score
409
Location
Seattle WA
Also have a line on a set of LR3 calipers. Saw where @jwest replaced the stock LR4's with these and eliminated the need for spacers. I like that idea...seems cleaner. With stock LR3 18's, can I keep the existing rotors and just swap calipers or would I need to go further and replace more?

Just to be clear, I have an lr3 and swapped to lr3 v6 slightly downsized rotors. Your idea to use lr3 rotors and caliper carriers ought to work though and the bonus will be that the 275/65-18 will fir perfectly not needing strut spacers which do introduce more issues to deal with and less high speed stability by nature of the entire vehicle riding 50mm higher all the time during the time when it should most be lower, highway.

That 1.25" spacer is actually so wide that it may still cause turning clearance issues with that tire size and width. You could decrease the issues by using a narrower size like 256/70 but that may be too tall still.
 

jwest

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Posts
2,041
Reaction score
409
Location
Seattle WA
Most just cut the AL hard pipe and use 5/8 heater hose to reroute. This is what I did and have no adverse issues to report.

Some report being able to bend the existing pipes and make it work, but some have reported breaking them while attempting this.

@jwest is running an LR3, I believe. If you are going to the trouble of swapping calipers, I would go all in and swap the rotors and carriers to be able to run 17s.

I think you would need to swap all those bits anyway to get the 18inch LR3 wheels to work without spacers/grinding.

You need the limit straps or the HD CV joints per L8. I have them on mine with no complaints, thus far. If I need to replace in the future, I would go the HD route and remove them, though.

the 17 factory is only 7" wide though so one has to be really into that size to make sense of it. The lr3 v8 brake size is probably ideal for most people and uses.
 

jwest

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Posts
2,041
Reaction score
409
Location
Seattle WA
The Asfir rear diff plate provides some protection to the exhaust, as well.

That thing is a serious piece. It's nearly 30 lbs and a pita to put on or remove but I figured it's worth it. The annoyance occurs when you have to do anything requiring access to the axles or tie rods.
 

jwest

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Posts
2,041
Reaction score
409
Location
Seattle WA
You'll need to figure out a way to deal with the rear wheel alignment if you use the proud rhino strut spacers. It will add a bunch of positive camber making your rig look silly. I'm trying to find a shop near Denver/Boulder that can resolve the issue as i already took it to JC's British in Denver and they said there is nothing they can do about it. @avslash did you have to do anything special to deal with your alignment? JC's told me once they exceed 1.25" of lift that they can't get them aligned but I do recall others saying with a bit of milling on some part they have gotten them bAck into alignment.

You've got some other issue then because my dealer got it just barely within allowable spec. Or, there's some difference in the LR3 - 4 suspension parts that allow an lr3 to be aligned but not the lr4.
 
Last edited:

jwest

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Posts
2,041
Reaction score
409
Location
Seattle WA

jwest

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Posts
2,041
Reaction score
409
Location
Seattle WA
I just want to go on record and say.. read what avslash said again and remember that 'rods' of any kind (especially the lying johnson rods guy) will NOT fix fitment issues. They change the at-rest position of the air struts but don't change the maximum down or up travel of the strut... therefore DO NOT have anything to do with tire fitment.

I also worry about busting CV's and having the truck jacked up with rods isn't going to help CV angles. I wonder if anyone here has thoughts on the CV strength? I'd consider carrying spare CV before air bags.. i really don't worry about those much. Air line leaks, at the distribution blocks or compressor/tank.. sure, but has anyone seen a burst bag on the trail?

Also, as far as skids.. The Tactical 4x4 stuff is super stought... probably overkill.. but great for sliders, gas tank skid and transfer case. I just put the ASFIR rear diff (And exhaust pipe) guard on and I like it. Good fitment (although I did have to cut the T44 gas tank skid a bit because it shares a bolt with the asfir). Its pretty light weight also. I kinda wish all my skids were that light.

Those damn exhaust pipes stick down below the suspension arms in the rear...

IMG_20190518_141537-X3.jpg

1- agreed on Johnson fraud guy
2- good food for thought regarding spare CV, I suppose carrying 1 for the front (if they're the same L-R) is not a bad plan at all!
3- I've never heard of an airbag itself failing. It's always some aspect of supplying or controlling the air that is the failure such as valve blocks, compressors, air lines and/or computer glitches. Although, I currently have a leak in the top of the strut itself in the Bilstein 4600 unit. The rubber between metal top hat and where damper rod comes up through developed a crack and leaks. Real ******.

4- I have the same looking Asfir gaurd and a note to people, it probably is a simple direct bolt-on for stock exhaust but if like me you have a Magnaflow.... it is not simple... 23 bends to the guard and stainless washers stacked as spacers off those 2 widest mount points finally allowed a fit with no contact even when hot or bouncing around off road. It's hard to bend that thick steel with very little leverage but the 23 times was marking it up, then start the various bends, test fit, mark more, remove, bend more, etc, etc, etc. What a PITA but it finally came together. Due to the custom fitting and such it's no fun to remove and reinstall for rear axle work but I bet it'll do it's job one day.
 

Rkymtnman

Active Member
Joined
May 8, 2019
Posts
37
Reaction score
21
Location
Colorado
thanks for all the excellent info. Starting to think I'll start with a set of 265/70's, keep the stock brakes, throw the spacers at it with the LR3 18's and see how it goes from there. I will still do all the trimming and clearance work but after reading post after post, it would seem wise to see how this beast does with some "mild" modifications and some armor before trying to hit the top rope. The alignment issue has me a little concerned about the strut spacers so I will research that further before going that route. There won't be any trail rides for another 6 months anyway so I do have some time.

Truth is, I love it as it is and how it rides and don't want to spoil that.

thanks again for the info...helps a lot.
 

jwest

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2008
Posts
2,041
Reaction score
409
Location
Seattle WA
Starting to think I'll start with a set of 265/70's, keep the stock brakes, throw the spacers at it with the LR3 18's and see how it goes from there. I will still do all the trimming and clearance work

Required or you will have massive rubbing: HVAC lines moved, flanges flattened both sides, fender liner plastic bulge flattened, etc.

Wheel spacers make tire diameter issues worse, in every aspect. That tire is extra tall and the spacer required to allow a factory 18" to clear pushes the wheel our too far such that the bumper itself then becomes a problem as well. Also in the rear I think the spacer would set the outer edge of the tire to grind into the actual body near where the wheel arch gap occurs. This would be at full compression or under air loss. Max size to not have contact is 31.5-32" if tucked into the fenders on factory wheels without wheel or strut spacers.

From what I've read about lr4 fitting 18", you either space it extra wide, also grind calipers, or go with aftermarket wheels which will have the least amount of added track.
 

iSurfvilano

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2016
Posts
652
Reaction score
417
Location
North Beach, FL
Required or you will have massive rubbing: HVAC lines moved, flanges flattened both sides, fender liner plastic bulge flattened, etc.

Wheel spacers make tire diameter issues worse, in every aspect. That tire is extra tall and the spacer required to allow a factory 18" to clear pushes the wheel our too far such that the bumper itself then becomes a problem as well. Also in the rear I think the spacer would set the outer edge of the tire to grind into the actual body near where the wheel arch gap occurs. This would be at full compression or under air loss. Max size to not have contact is 31.5-32" if tucked into the fenders on factory wheels without wheel or strut spacers.

From what I've read about lr4 fitting 18", you either space it extra wide, also grind calipers, or go with aftermarket wheels which will have the least amount of added track.
You always have fantastic write ups, wealth of information!
 

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
36,223
Posts
217,601
Members
30,474
Latest member
sawcut
Top