For those that offroad their LR4...a few questions before I pull the trigger

[avslash]

I just want to go on record and say.. read what avslash said again and remember that 'rods' of any kind (especially the lying johnson rods guy) will NOT fix fitment issues. They change the at-rest position of the air struts but don't change the maximum down or up travel of the strut... therefore DO NOT have anything to do with tire fitment.

I also worry about busting CV's and having the truck jacked up with rods isn't going to help CV angles. I wonder if anyone here has thoughts on the CV strength? I'd consider carrying spare CV before air bags.. i really don't worry about those much. Air line leaks, at the distribution blocks or compressor/tank.. sure, but has anyone seen a burst bag on the trail?

Also, as far as skids.. The Tactical 4x4 stuff is super stought... probably overkill.. but great for sliders, gas tank skid and transfer case. I just put the ASFIR rear diff (And exhaust pipe) guard on and I like it. Good fitment (although I did have to cut the T44 gas tank skid a bit because it shares a bolt with the asfir). Its pretty light weight also. I kinda wish all my skids were that light.

Those damn exhaust pipes stick down below the suspension arms in the rear...

I agree on your rod comment. The exceptions I would note is when they are used in conjunction with the Proud Rhino spacers. In that context they return the air struts to factory "normal" height pressure while the truck sits 2' higher. If you run the truck with the spacers and no rods, it rides like a Conestoga wagon due to the struts being at roughly access height pressure. The other exception is when running LR3 factory wheels and spacers. They do provide some extra clearance between the tire and the frame horns area.

I have only heard of two anecdotal accounts of an actual bag rupture, and that info was secondhand. I carry the spares because that is a failure mode that will strand you because there is not a workaround for a ruptured bag. For any other air suspension fault, there is a known workaround.

CV joints are a concern, and I would love for somebody to figure out a compatible option with a higher range of motion. Empirically, I have run larger wheels, tires and lift for 45K miles and have not had an issue with them. My fronts were also out of the truck when my front locker was installed two weeks ago and given a close inspection to determine if they should be replaced at the same time. They looked fine, and went back in. Anecdotally, Scott Brady of ExpoPortal was told first hand by JLR engineers that the CV joints were up to the task of an 18" LR3 wheel/spacer setup.

The Tactical Rovers gear is literally bomb-proof, but heavy as hell. If I were starting from scratch, I would look very hard at the ProSpeed aluminum plates just for the weight savings.

My Asfir diff plate also required some surgery for the same reason.

I have laid under my truck for an hour or so looking for a different routing for those damned exhaust pipes. If you come up with an idea in a moment of clarity, by all means, please post it up.

 

[avslash]

The T44 transfer case skid does cover the transmission, it just protrudes back past the cross member and also protects the transfer case.

It goes from the factory skid all the way back past the transfer case.

I can get better photos if you need, just let me know.

Interesting.

My TR fuel tank plate doesn't have the vents that yours does. Must have been a design change at some point.

 

[mbw]

Interesting.

My TR fuel tank plate doesn't have the vents that yours does. Must have been a design change at some point.

Gives it strength along the long axis and makes it drain better. Same with the other side sliders, he put in drain holes in the compressor bump. I also had all of my stuff spray metalized (like galvanizing) So that even if the powder coat is scraped off they won't rust that easily.

My Asfir diff plate also required some surgery for the same reason.

I need to go back and clean it up more, I cut it while it was mounted... but I just cut some off the back of the gas skid and it seemed fine. I'd like a little more clearance actually.. and I want to make sure I have a good thick coat of protection now that I cut off the galvanized protection along that edge. I used a 1/4" longer bolt for the skid. The gas skid actually is still a little higher and meets up nicely with the diff skid. Doesn't look awkward or wrong even though the gas skid is 1/4" lower right there.

 

[Rkymtnman]

Holy wealth of information! Thank you all for the tips, advice and opinions. Going to take some time to digest all this.

Now I am getting giddy with starting this build. Hoping to finalize the deal for the vehicle this afternoon....will provide some details once it is done. I jsut need to figure out how to get some work done today and not obsess over this too much

 

[cperez]

I jsut need to figure out how to get some work done today and not obsess over this too much

Just focus and try to be in the moment, in the present.

I'm not talking about focusing on work. I mean it's not everyday that you get a new Land Rover...enjoy the experience. The work will still be there tomorrow.

 

[avslash]

Working front to back, here is a rough list of everything I can think of that I have done to affect off-road/camping utility

Tactical Rovers front Bumper
TJM 9,000 pound winch
2 7,000lbs rated swivel hoist ring recovery points
18" Compomotives
275/75R18 BFG K02's
Proud Rhino 2" Strut Spacers
GOE 2 Position (normal and extended) Rods
GOE Emergency Air Large Kit (puts Schrader valves in grille/rear bumper so you can isolate and manually inflate air struts)
Cut Frame Horns
ARB Front Air Locking Diff
Ground Brake Calipers
Relocated EAS harness
Reshaped Fender Liners
Traxide Dual Battery
Under Hood ARB Compressor
Under Hood Noco 8 amp charger with male receptacle mounted in bumper (for shore power)
VisionX Lights on Bumper
Under Hood Victron 15 Amp Solar Charge Controller with Pigtail routed through grille
Kenwood Dual Band HAM radio
Wilson Electronics Cell Phone Amplifier
GAP Diagnostics IIDTool Bluetooth (this thing is indispensable when offroading and LR3/4 IMO)
ARB Fridge Replacing second row center seat
Big Sky Overhead Rifle Rack above second row of seats
Bearmach Attic Shelf Above Cargo area
Emergency release cable for rear hatch (Do this. It is easy, and the factory one will fail at some point)
Tactical Rovers Sliders, Transfer Case and Fuel Tank Skid Plates
Removed Body Flange in rear wheel wells
Relocated heater lines in passenger rear wheel well
Blue Sea Accessory Fuse Bock for various electrical accessories (Tied to House Battery in Traxide System)
Long Range Automotive 29 Gallon auxiliary fuel tank
Tactical Rovers Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier and Jerry Can Holder
ProSpeed Roof Rack

Still Considering:
An awning of some sort
Rhino Hitch
Removing third row of seats and fabbing up cover with access points for space below the load floor (probably wait until my youngest departs for college to do this, though)
Quality antenna for the cell phone amp (the one included is tiny)
CB Radio/Antenna
Some sort of dc/dc or buckboost to improve charging of house battery (charging systems on these trucks are not optimal)
Rear and side facing "work" lights on rack
Warn 12,000 pound winch to replace TJM
Removable rear winch mounted to trailer hitch

Really, the only thing I MIGHT do differently at this point is the aluminum skids to save weight versus the Tactical Rovers stuff. Hope this helps jog some ideas, and happy to answer and questions or comments.

 

[Houm_WA]

Wow! Got pics of this beast?

....I'm going to google that GOE inflate kit. Sounds intriguing.

 

[avslash]

Wow! Got pics of this beast?

....I'm going to google that GOE inflate kit. Sounds intriguing.

Page 1.

If you want a pic of any detail, let me know what and I will try and accommodate.

You replicate the GOE kit by buying the parts yourself stateside, and probably save money.

It is basically extra air tubing, 4 quick-connect air fitting, 4 quick connect fittings with a Schrader valve fitted, and then four replacement connectors to screw into the valve blocks.

Basically you are creating a loop of air line with a quick disconnect located in a convenient and quick to access spot.

In the event of trouble, you pop the strut side of the disconnect, attach your disconnect with Schrader valve and inflate from a secondary air source. It allows you to deal with any EAS issue with the exception of an actual ruptured air bladder.

 

[Rkymtnman]

Big Sky Overhead Rifle Rack above second row of seats

Would love to see pics of this bad boy. This will also be my elk hunting rig. How was the install?

 

[Houm_WA]

Right....and I do carry some of the appropriate rubber tubing and some push-on connectors for such an occasion. I may have it covered but I should probably test it. I don't have the Schrader valve but I do have a fitting for my supplementary air compressor that will fit into the tubing.