Great point. I have no experience with anything remotely resembling "modern" but am very much looking forward to it. Honestly, that is a huge reason I landed on the LR4. I was going to build up a Lexus GX - or do another LX/LC but preferred something different with more modern systems to play with. We had a RRS for a while and I liked it a lot but it was the wife's.
I home office and my only real "commute" is 2 miles to the gym and the twice a month trip to the airport.
I have a dual band 440/2m setup ready to drop in. Will probably add a CB as well for my non-HAM friends. Certainly an "essential" in my mind....along with all my recovery gear. That stuff is a given.
Still subject to change but current plan is to start with LR3 wheels/spacers, proud rhino strut spacers, tires, sliders, onboard air, rifle rack and the GAP tool and see where that takes me. I had a dual battery set up in my FJ80 for the fridge. I like the peace of mind for sure. We can fab a lot of stuff here in the shop so might get creative with skid plates and a roof rack. Itching to get started.
Should have the deal done and LR4 in the driveway this afternoon.
Thanks for all the input...it really helps.
Be sure to add the "rods" if you are doing the Proud Rhino spacers.
A brief explanation so you know what you are getting:
Installing the strut top spacers, by themselves, does not alter the ride height of the truck. As such, when you install the spacers the truck will sit at the same height, but, due to the spacers, the pressure in the air bladders will only be at what would be roughly equivalent to what it is in "access" height. The truck will ride like absolute crap in this configuration.
Adding the lift rods compensates for this, and returns the air bladder pressure to roughly equivalent to "normal" setting. The truck will have rebound/damping similar to the factory "normal" suspension setting, but will now sit 2" higher than stock.
Since you will have the GAP tool, the best practice IMO is to install it all and then back a little bit of the height increase out. Factory specs call for a measurement of 466mm front wheel hub centerline to bottom edge of wheel arch molding, and 485mm in the rear. Using this as a baseline, and given that the strut spacers added about 50.8mm, use the GAP tool to adjust the final height to somewhere around 516mm and 535mm front/rear.
You can play with it a bit from there to see what feels best to you, but I would bet you end up within 5mm of those measurements.
You will also be installing some "limit" straps with the spacers to prevent the CV joints from overextending. The instructions that come with them are less than stellar. Post back up for clarification if you need to.