Front Wheel Bearings - Question

[TrinidadLR4]

A question to those of you who have replaced your front wheel bearings. I replaced mine a couple of months ago as preventative maintenance/100k thing, especially since I had a new pair laying around that I got from the UK(Optimal bearings from Germany with some long warranty, etc). When wrapping up the job, you have to tighten the 32mm axle nut. However, since the front is in the air, you can't get a good torque reading on it and the torque is supposed to be 268lb/ft or something nutty like that. So, I hammered both sides with an air ratchet for a while(like the AB video shows), and then renotched both bolts. About three weeks ago, I started getting a clunk when going over minor bumps. This past weekend I jacked the front up and started wiggling the wheels around to see what was loose. Looks like there is some looseness in both wheels from the 12/6 o clock position, which looks like it's coming from the bearing itself. I undid the notches in both axle bolts and tried air ratcheting them again, noticing that they seemed to tighten some more. The car feels better now but still clunks and there is still some looseness from the wheels in the same position. Since the bearings themselves are new, I am thinking I didn't tighten the axle nuts enough when I did the job. Is it possible that both bearings were damaged by not tightening the nuts enough and I need new bearings? Thanks!

 

[Michael Gain]

Unfortunately, it does sound like they are damaged. As the wheel bearing is held in by the 4 bolts; and the wheel is connected to the bearing by the lug nuts; I never understood how marginally under torquing the axle nut could cause play.

When you tightened the axle nut, did it reduce the play in the wheels?

To tighten to torque, remove the rim center caps before install. Torque lug nuts to spec, lower vehicle all the way, and torque. Center caps then snap back into place.

 

[TrinidadLR4]

Unfortunately, it does sound like they are damaged. As the wheel bearing is held in by the 4 bolts; and the wheel is connected to the bearing by the lug nuts; I never understood how marginally under torquing the axle nut could cause play.

When you tightened the axle nut, did it reduce the play in the wheels?

To tighten to torque, remove the rim center caps before install. Torque lug nuts to spec, lower vehicle all the way, and torque. Center caps then snap back into place.

The play was reduced but it's still not gone. I will try to torque them again with the wheel on the ground, that's a great suggestion. If still wobbling, might be time for new bearings again. Dammit.

 

[Jimmy Brooks]

Interesting question on an issue I’ve been trying to diagnose(possibly a wheel bearing going bad). I’ve started to notice a creaking sound coming from the right wheel when ever I turn left or articulate the right front wheel. I’ve also noticed the steering when I steer to the right is a bit looser and doesn’t test to go back into place as easily as it will when I turn left. I also dropped the car to bump stops and drove it a little in my driveway and there was no noise which means it has nothing to do with the struts or anything air suspension related. Also take note that my LCA and sway bar bushings were all done 13k miles ago. Anyone think it could be a wheel bearing?

 

[ryanjl]

Jack up the front and see if you can wobble the wheels with your hands at the 9 and 3 and again at the 12 and 6.

 

[f1racer328]

Both of my front wheel bearings are currently bad, the passenger side is awful actually.

I noticed noise over the summer, and figured it was a wheel bearing and just waited and waited for it to get worse.

Well now it's making a bit of noise and a tiny vibration at high speeds, but when jacking the wheel off the ground it is rock solid.

Going to order these hub assemblies now...

 

[f1racer328]

Alright so my hub assemblies come in tomorrow. I notified that my axle nuts are the new design (36 mm, castle nut with integrated washer) and require no staking.

Here’s what they look like. I drove over to the new dealership and bought 2 new nuts.


Not 100% sure if these are reusable or not.

I also had them check the torque spec for me. Topix shows 169 ft lbs which is considerably lower than the old design which required staking.

Anyone have any experience with these types of axle nuts? Thanks.

 

[greiswig]

FWIW, I would think that is likely reusable unless it was damaged by a bearing failure and no longer has a flat surface to mate with the bearing.

 

[f1racer328]

Kind of what I'm figuring. I bought new ones so I'm going to use them anyways.

 

[Michael Gain]

Normally the castle nut would use a cotter pin to prevent loosening of the axle nut. Hence, no staking required. But, I don't remember our axles having a hole to insert a cotter pin into. I'm sure it's fine. Someone much smarter than me designed it