Front Wheel Bearings - Question

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Quijote

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Unless they are torqued to yield, or have built-in thread-locker, one should be able to reuse them. As for the torque value, the threads clearly have not changed, so unless the surface area of the built-in washer is smaller, the torque should not have changed. But maybe they have realized they don't need to be torqued as much and backed off the spec.

Anecdote: As a younger engineer I was assigned the design of the largest machine we had ever made. I was worried about anything failing (huge piece of capital equipment would be trashed) so for the drivetrain I followed the Gates design guide to a t. Given the stiffness and size of the toothed belts, the tensions required by their calculations were pretty huge. So I then had to design the components and the housing to take those loads without failing or even deflecting too much. We bought sonic tension meters to make sure every belt was properly tensioned. Worried about how high the range was, and extrapolating from smaller machines on which we had decades of field experience, I told manufacturing to go to the lower end of the wide tension range. Still, it was really hard to hit that tension consistently. Finally, we get one of their application engineers to come on site and their response was that those values were too high and could probably be cut in half. *eyeroll* Of course, it was too late to redesign the drivetrain for less beefy and less expensive components, so we were stuck with those.

The point of the story is that perhaps the initial calculations could have informed the initial torque, but maybe over the years they realized it was overkill and possibly too difficult to service, causing premature, wear, etc.
 

f1racer328

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How are they using a castle nut without a cotter pin?
I'm not actually sure if the nut is a castle nut. It might be a prevailing torque lock nut. Doesn't need a cotter pin and the axle has no slot. I also confirmed the lower torque spec again (169 ft lbs or 230 nm)
 

f1racer328

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More to the point, how can it work like a castle nut or staked nut if there is no cotter pin or staking? LokTite?

No loctite, that changes torque specs (if it isn't intended to be used)

The nut itself applies some type of frictional interference between the nut and the threads.

The top of the nut (which appears to crown inward) creates that interference.

I'm not 100% sure what type of nut this is again, but I believe that's how it works. Either way, it's easy and less work. I wouldn't, but I believe you can re use these nuts a limited amount of times too. Not worth it when they're cheap ($10 online, $15 at the dealer) and such an important component.
 

gsxr

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... you have to tighten the 32mm axle nut. However, since the front is in the air, you can't get a good torque reading on it and the torque is supposed to be 268lb/ft or something nutty like that. So, I hammered both sides with an air ratchet for a while(like the AB video shows), and then renotched both bolts.
Just curious... why would an impact wrench be needed? Why not get the nuts snug with the truck in the air, then lower to the ground and torque to spec?

The typical limit on 1/2" torque wrenches is ~250 lb-ft but if spec is 268, I'd consider 250 close enough. The cost of a quality 3/4" torque wrench is generally outside most DIY budgets ($400+ for one that goes to 600 lb-ft), unless you want to gamble on the Harbor Fright specials.
 

Stuart Barnes

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Just curious... why would an impact wrench be needed? Why not get the nuts snug with the truck in the air, then lower to the ground and torque to spec?

The typical limit on 1/2" torque wrenches is ~250 lb-ft but if spec is 268, I'd consider 250 close enough. The cost of a quality 3/4" torque wrench is generally outside most DIY budgets ($400+ for one that goes to 600 lb-ft), unless you want to gamble on the Harbor Fright specials.

I thought they were torqued to 230Nm / 179lb.ft?

or am I having a brain fart?
 

gsxr

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I thought they were torqued to 230Nm / 179lb.ft?

or am I having a brain fart?
Looks like you are correct, FSM screenshot below. Don't know where OP got the 268 lb-ft (363 Nm) data.

Same question though, I would assume you put the truck on the ground and then tighten. No need to do it in the air, unless the tools will not fit through the center hole of the wheel (I haven't checked)... that could be the issue here.

The FSM also says not to use air tools (i.e., impact wrench, including electric impact); I assume to avoid over-torquing.

upload_2021-3-19_9-26-24.png


upload_2021-3-19_9-29-47.png
 

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