HDC Fault, Engine Fault, Special Programs Not Available, EPB Fault, and more HELP!

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nsoudah

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First off, thank you for the help. This vehicle gets more sensitive by the minute.

All 4 bulbs, brake and tail, are in working order... replaced one a few months ago. All the filaments are also vertical.

Are you both thinking this is likely a brake light switch? If it is, can I ignore the HDC fault light for a while or will it start flashing red and ask me to drive less than 30 mph? I'd happily try this replacement myself if I had the time but I'm due for a road trip Tuesday... so may have to take it to a shop Monday. Thanks again!
 

bbyer

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Can ignore the messages.

Yes, for the most part, you can ignore the messages and lights and drive as you normally would.

The 3's computer is like a baby - it has a limited vocabulary and tends to whimper on occasion.

As such, the parent has to interpret the noises: is it just the baby fussing or is it something serious?

If it is the brake light switch contacts going bad, (a $25 dollar bet), then the computer messages and lights generated can be ignored. Loss of the Hill Decent or Cruise Control functions are of no consequence - drive as long as you wish and at the usual normal speeds - nothing bad will happen.

You might want to phone your LR dealer and put a switch on order - they usually take a couple of days to appear and are not always stocked as the dealers do not always believe they are the cause of the messages.

Since I put my new switch in a couple of years ago, I do not get spurious messages as soon as the temperature drops below -20F. In the past I did, (such as Cruise Control Not Available). Now for the past couple of years, no goofy messages in cold weather so I tend to assume failing switch contacts and cold weather were causing messages to appear as well.

This was before I got the messages in normal weather conditions as well. Regardless, it is only a matter of time until the switch needs to be replaced so doing so now is kind of at worst, preventative maintenance.
 

nsoudah

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Cold weather, where the heck are you? Good to know about the messages. The LR seems to drive fine and also seems to have it's kick back since the new battery was installed. I'll order the switch on amazon tonight since it's $23 shipped on Amazon... have a feeling the dealer is higher ;). The videos online (link below) show quite an easy install:

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/XKB500110G.cfm

I don't seem to be getting Hill Decent or Cruise warnings... just the HDC fault, "Systems Not Available" warning. Guess I'll just take the chance and drive it for now. Thanks again.
 

metalslug

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My 05 LR3 SE had the HDC fault for a month or 2 and recently got worse and like everyone's description started to tell me things were getting disabled and all the lights on the dash would just stay on while the engine was running. I would turn off the car and turn it back on and the lights on dash would turn off. It's a good thing I found this recent thread because I started to think it was gonna burn a hole in my wallet. I didn't want the car to fully malfunction on my fiancé on her way to work. I took it to Firestone this morning to have the battery checked and it was on it's last bit of juice and there computer highly recommended a replacement. In total it cost me $225 with labor and special corrosion sealant. No more errors on the dash :biggrin:.

Thanks All!!
 

nsoudah

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The thread is definitely helpful. Update on my situation... I hesitated in ordering the brake switch as I wanted to get the codes read by a Land Rover reader and not play a guessing game. I found a shop nearby that was highly recommended as I just don't want to go to the dealer. Read the codes, HDC and all this morning... sadly, my air compressor is the source of the problem. I have to say I knew it was coming as it's been getting louder for the past few months.

OUCH... speaking of a hole in the wallet. The latest pump with its new, redesigned mount and casing, add labor and reprogramming the computer for it = $1500!

Painful Monday and I really hope this solves the problem. I'll update soon.

Thanks again!
 

Houm_WA

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That price sounds high....and I hope you've truly got the problem nailed down, because the brake switch is a LOT cheaper to fix. I don't know that the sound of the compressor is a symptom of a dying unit. Techs???
 

umbertob

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Not necessarily, a noisier compressor may just be the result of the rubber mounts between unit and bracket wearing out and transmitting more vibration to the bracket and, in turn, to the chassis. At least the design of the new compressor (laying on a bracket, rather than being suspended on it) should minimize that type of wear and tear on the mounts.
 

nsoudah

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I certainly didn't plan to pay that much to repair this issue... but at the end of the day, my wife and kids are in that car every day. I travel a lot and they had to go on a road trip while I was away so... didn't want to keep guessing. Also, when I saw all the error codes on the reader, they all seemed to lead to the compressor.

Since the pump replacement, it's completely silent and no vibration. We've taken it on a 4 hr road trip and no codes have come back. When we park, it's self-leveling again which wasn't happening with the old compressor. Fingers crossed but I hope that has resolved the issue.

I'm going to order the $20 brake switch and change it as well ;)

Thanks to all for the assistance.
 

lisac

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Transmission Fault... Limited Gears?

Question? My brake pads were low a couple of weeks ago. I had my mechanic change them. He didn't know you had to change the sensor with it. A week of driving with the light on. and next thing I know I have the brake light on, the brake pad light still on, the emergency brake on, the emergency flashing brake light on, the Hydraulics shut off and the big F on my dash on. Could not tow it? Could not get the fault light off. I have since changed the brake sensor. It turned off all the flashing lights. My trans fault was still on. I changed the battery. The trans fault is still on. Any suggestions?
lisac.
 

bbyer

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Bodsy's Brake Bible

My best guess is that your mechanic did not understand the complexity of the rear brake system.

As such, download Bodsy's Brake Bible, print it out and let him read it, (as well as yourself), as you have to know these things - no one much else does.


Link on to Bodsy’s Brake Bible

http://bit.ly/12OMluD

Download the latest version; v1.6a as of when I typed this and over 6,300 views now.

Bodsy keeps updating it as he tunes the 36 page pdf up.

The best part is probably towards the end, (page 27/36 and following), re the electronic parking brake.

It is black art stuff, (well leading edge, maybe bleeding); also the set and unset procedure applies when doing just a normal rear pad change.

If you ignore the set unset procedure, then a few miles down the road, the squealing will start.

The fronts are more normal, but the rears, not!

You actually have three pair of brake assemblies to deal with: (1), the front pair of rotors, and pads, (2), the rear pair of rotors and pads, and then (3), the parking brake pair of drums and shoes – yes, drums and shoes.

That is why you can use the parking brake as a “dynamic” system to safely slow the vehicle from highway speeds. The owner’s handbook explains the procedure as below.

Dynamic operation: In an emergency, the park brake can be applied dynamically’, i.e. with the vehicle travelling at more than 3 km/h (2 mph). Pulling up on the lever and holding it up gives a gradual reduction in speed. The brake warning indicator will illuminate accompanied by a harsh sound and a ’Caution! Parkbrake applied’ appears on the message screen. The stop lamps will illuminate. Releasing or depressing the lever will cancel the parkbrake application.
 

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