How to get unstuck in deep water?

[Socialseb83]

You aren't going to find a snorkel for a U.S. LR4 because the intakes are on both sides of the vehicle, so we'd have to run 2 snorkels and nobody makes the mirror image that we'd need.

That said, a snorkel can raise the air intake for water crossings, but you'd have to do a whole ton of other waterproofing before it comes down to the snorkel saving your bacon.

The snorkel is good in dusty conditions as it allows the particles in the air to settle a bit before they hit the air filter.

What about skid plates. Dothey d anything when it comes to water? Or are they stricty for bumps and scrapes?

 

[jwest]

I had never heard of these magics you describe. I'm going to look them up right now. But just to be clear, you are saying that these are a better buy than a maxtrac in your opinion? More practical?

The maxtrax are good where their good, but I prefer to have my gear do multiple functions. Basically, the rigid choices do everything a maxtrax can but far more. The HD Mantec ladders are like $600 though and that is one reason you rarely see them. They are even more insanely awesome though compared to my 12x48 waffle boards and they can be had in 16"x60" which is a serious chunk of metal to deal with putting somewhere on a vehicle.

To me the waffle was the best mix of high function but low cost and weight/size.

OkOffroad is the only place I've seen all of these available in the US. Places like Atlantic British and Rovers North have periodically carried them too.

 

[jwest]

What about skid plates. Dothey d anything when it comes to water? Or are they stricty for bumps and scrapes?

They're only going to help with skidding on hard items but when you cannot even see every potential thing under even shallow muddy water, they're possibly more important there than on dry ground where you could be more careful on choosing a line.

When there's mud and some unknown, it's likely you're going to kind of "go for it" and that speed could be catastrophic if you hit a rock in the wrong spot without the plate.

 

[Socialseb83]

They're only going to help with skidding on hard items but when you cannot even see every potential thing under even shallow muddy water, they're possibly more important there than on dry ground where you could be more careful on choosing a line.

When there's mud and some unknown, it's likely you're going to kind of "go for it" and that speed could be catastrophic if you hit a rock in the wrong spot without the plate.

Recommendations for good plates?

 

[jwest]

Truly cost effective basics avoiding the bling of $$$ racks, bumpers, winches, etc:

1st-shovel, a stock vehicle with street tires can benefit the most from a shovel
2nd-waffle boards

3rd-proper tire and wheel (this means 18", if you're trying to use a 19, well, none of this matters) and a size that will still fit underneath. 31.5 265/65-18 is basically the max I think.

4-skid plates

I actually put the bridging boards in 2nd because I can think of several times where a track wasn't all that bad or requiring a serious tire but a washout or weird ledge made it almost impossible - the ladder would make quick work of that and is so easy to just bring on that kind of trip.

Assuming you take a full size spare, if you go out with a temp spare, you may deserve to walk out

 

[jwest]

Recommendations for good plates?

Aluminum. Mine are Rasta but I don't think they are in the US anymore. There are some others out there for sure.

 

[ktm525]

Unstuck in water? Strap a canoe on top in case things get deep. Cut the straps and voila you are free. :/

 

[avslash]

My earlier post was a little in jest since I was on my phone.

Seriously though, knowing you are new to this from your other posts, you need to be very, very cautious in driving through water of unknown depth or bottom conditions.

I know you live in Houston, as do I, and if you pay attention, there are always some morons submarining themselves during our hurricanes or tropical storms.

If you decide to enter a water a crossing, you need to equip yourself with whatever information you can. This can, and often does include getting out, wading in yourself and probing bottom conditions with whatever stick or instrument you can find that is handy. If after gathering information you decide to proceed with a crossing, you need to commit and keep your forward momentum up at virtually all costs. What you are looking for is the nose of your vehicle to create a bow wave that will keep water off the top of the hood and flowing underneath your air intakes located on either fender. Nothing sucks quite as much as having to open a door and watch water flow into the floorpan of your ride.

Take a look at those intakes on either side of your LR4. You must keep the water below that plane of the vehicle at all costs. Failure to do so can easily result in hydrolocking your engine into a $12,000 paperweight.

I have had mine in 38" of water on multiple occasions during Harvey, and other flood events here. I will only do that where I know the street conditions intimately, however. In running trails with water crossings where I do not have a good understanding of what to expect underneath, I would be very hesitant to venture into a depth much over about 3/4 of the wheel height.

If you do find yourself stuck, a buddy with a ****** strap is your best friend, a winch would be your second, and waffle boards would be your third.

I completely agree with what @jwest posted earlier. I use the same waffle boards he referenced versus the other products out there. They can do everything the other items promise, as well as a host of other things that come in handy. Maxtrax have always struck me as a "one trick pony" in comparison. With four of the waffle boards, you could come damn close to working your Rover up a 90 degree sheer rock face of 5 or 6 feet if it came to that. I actually use my waffle boards as the floor decking on my prospeed rack, as well. Another trick to use with them in deep mud or water is to tie the front of the waffle board to your rear bumper so that if you manage to get out the truck drags them out as well versus having to fish or dig for them.

If you drive through deep water, it is also never a bad idea to refresh the fluids in your differentials and T-case, as well.

Have fun out there.

 

[Troy A]

My earlier post was a little in jest since I was on my phone.

Seriously though, knowing you are new to this from your other posts, you need to be very, very cautious in driving through water of unknown depth or bottom conditions.

I know you live in Houston, as do I, and if you pay attention, there are always some morons submarining themselves during our hurricanes or tropical storms.

If you decide to enter a water a crossing, you need to equip yourself with whatever information you can. This can, and often does include getting out, wading in yourself and probing bottom conditions with whatever stick or instrument you can find that is handy. If after gathering information you decide to proceed with a crossing, you need to commit and keep your forward momentum up at virtually all costs. What you are looking for is the nose of your vehicle to create a bow wave that will keep water off the top of the hood and flowing underneath your air intakes located on either fender. Nothing sucks quite as much as having to open a door and watch water flow into the floorpan of your ride.

Take a look at those intakes on either side of your LR4. You must keep the water below that plane of the vehicle at all costs. Failure to do so can easily result in hydrolocking your engine into a $12,000 paperweight.

I have had mine in 38" of water on multiple occasions during Harvey, and other flood events here. I will only do that where I know the street conditions intimately, however. In running trails with water crossings where I do not have a good understanding of what to expect underneath, I would be very hesitant to venture into a depth much over about 3/4 of the wheel height.

If you do find yourself stuck, a buddy with a ****** strap is your best friend, a winch would be your second, and waffle boards would be your third.

I completely agree with what @jwest posted earlier. I use the same waffle boards he referenced versus the other products out there. They can do everything the other items promise, as well as a host of other things that come in handy. Maxtrax have always struck me as a "one trick pony" in comparison. With four of the waffle boards, you could come damn close to working your Rover up a 90 degree sheer rock face of 5 or 6 feet if it came to that. I actually use my waffle boards as the floor decking on my prospeed rack, as well. Another trick to use with them in deep mud or water is to tie the front of the waffle board to your rear bumper so that if you manage to get out the truck drags them out as well versus having to fish or dig for them.

If you drive through deep water, it is also never a bad idea to refresh the fluids in your differentials and T-case, as well.

Have fun out there.

There is so much great advice in this thread @socialseb. But from reading all your (many) questions, you really need to crawl, before you walk or run.

You have the truck. Sort out some wheels/tires (19s if you have to or 18s if you're going to seriously use the truck off road in the long-term). Get out on some easy trails with locals. Do a Land Rover experience day if you can get to one. If you can afford a land rover (and the maintenance) you can afford their training which is excellent. If not them, there are other 4WD training facilities in Texas. Then work your way up.

Coming up with hypotheticals such as you are in this post honestly is a complete waste of time. Might as well ask "If my truck is at the bottom of a lake, how do I get it out?"

Well, backup and think about it. If your truck is stuck at the bottom of a lake or "in deep water where I can't see the bottom and nobody is around to help me"....what the heck led you there? A series of bad decisions. Driving difficult unknown trails...on your own...without a buddy...or recovery gear...and not knowing anything about how to ford bodies of water.

So the right answer is: You should not "suddenly find yourself in this position" at all. If you do, you haven't prepared yourself to be in that situation or it's a just a freak emergency in which case...use what you have at hand and follow all the advice above.

But overall, you're worrying about things that are WAAAY down the track and that if you're smart and learn along the way on your own and with some instruction, you'll know that avoiding deep water is the best course of action in the first place unless as @avslash said you don't mind a $12K-$20K paperweight under the hood.


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[Socialseb83]

My earlier post was a little in jest since I was on my phone.

Seriously though, knowing you are new to this from your other posts, you need to be very, very cautious in driving through water of unknown depth or bottom conditions.

I know you live in Houston, as do I, and if you pay attention, there are always some morons submarining themselves during our hurricanes or tropical storms.

If you decide to enter a water a crossing, you need to equip yourself with whatever information you can. This can, and often does include getting out, wading in yourself and probing bottom conditions with whatever stick or instrument you can find that is handy. If after gathering information you decide to proceed with a crossing, you need to commit and keep your forward momentum up at virtually all costs. What you are looking for is the nose of your vehicle to create a bow wave that will keep water off the top of the hood and flowing underneath your air intakes located on either fender. Nothing sucks quite as much as having to open a door and watch water flow into the floorpan of your ride.

Take a look at those intakes on either side of your LR4. You must keep the water below that plane of the vehicle at all costs. Failure to do so can easily result in hydrolocking your engine into a $12,000 paperweight.

I have had mine in 38" of water on multiple occasions during Harvey, and other flood events here. I will only do that where I know the street conditions intimately, however. In running trails with water crossings where I do not have a good understanding of what to expect underneath, I would be very hesitant to venture into a depth much over about 3/4 of the wheel height.

If you do find yourself stuck, a buddy with a ****** strap is your best friend, a winch would be your second, and waffle boards would be your third.

I completely agree with what @jwest posted earlier. I use the same waffle boards he referenced versus the other products out there. They can do everything the other items promise, as well as a host of other things that come in handy. Maxtrax have always struck me as a "one trick pony" in comparison. With four of the waffle boards, you could come damn close to working your Rover up a 90 degree sheer rock face of 5 or 6 feet if it came to that. I actually use my waffle boards as the floor decking on my prospeed rack, as well. Another trick to use with them in deep mud or water is to tie the front of the waffle board to your rear bumper so that if you manage to get out the truck drags them out as well versus having to fish or dig for them.

If you drive through deep water, it is also never a bad idea to refresh the fluids in your differentials and T-case, as well.

Have fun out there.

Ty for the great tips. I dont plan in driving through deep water. These are questions i ask because i know i can learn from them and be better prepared for the worse, although i may never be faced with it. But reading what you guys answer has taught me so muh already. Its very encouraging for me to have people like yall as teachers.