How to: Supercharger Removal, Rear Crossover, and Passenger Valve Cover

[ftillier]

They're used in PEX plumbing, Home Depot and Lowes carry various sizes. You're supposed to use a special tool, but can probably do it with pliers.

You can pry the 'tail' off of the tab and it'll pop off, but they're really single use. Looks like this when crimped:

 

[txfromwi]

Supercharger torque order - just double checking my interpretation...

The manual (pg 2464 in my copy) is even more obtuse on this than usual, but I interpret the torque order (using cylinder numbering as per the manual).

Cylinder Numbering
Firewall
3 6
2 5
1 4
Front

Torque order is only specified as pairs, not in a "normal sequence"
2/5 pair
1/3 pair
4/6 pair

I would do this as 2,5 1,3 4/6

Opinions ??

Thanks...

 

[txfromwi]

Sorry, just want to make sure I can do it right....

OK, so lets talk about alignment pins.

I'm saving several grand doing this myself so I don't mind (too much) buying the pins vs making them myself.

This is what I find in the manual for the 2016. I just want to make sure I am reading this correctly - especially if I a buying the dang things..

The intercooler uses two (2) alignment pins, located at bolt locations 10 and 17, part number 303-1444-01. This is labeled "Exhaust Manifold Installation Guide Pins - Threaded". (Manual pg 2451-2453)

The supercharger uses four (4) alignment pins, located at locations (per the above post) 1,3,4,6. It appears to me that we need 303-1449-01, labeled "Supercharger Installation Guide Pins - Threaded". (Manual pg 2463) Can anyone confirm this??

Availability is also a challenge - anyone know of a source that can deliver these no later than mid May, 2022 - early May is better..
Looks like I might need to make my own anyway...
I have not called our standard on-line Rover dealerships yet....

 

[jlglr4]

I don’t recall there being a specific torque order for the charger (I think the intercooler had a torque order). I think they just want you to torque the center bolts first, then the outside bolts.

On the pins, you would use the threaded ones. No idea on availability, but its super easy to make them if you have a hand grinder to cut the heads off. They are just there to keep the gaskets in place while you put the charger back in place. Do be careful not to bump them too hard once they are threaded in - don’t want to screw up the holes in that aluminum block.

 

[txfromwi]

I was wondering what the big deal was about the pins, holding gaskets is just tooo obvious, I guess.
With that insight, I have had a bang up idea for making my own pins - thanks!

 

[txfromwi]

SO... regarding order of operations...

On the 2013, I unbolted the intake manifold - kept the throttle body attached, supported on bungie cords and disconnected the throttle body coolant line at the rear manifold (rear crossover), then removed intake manifold and throttle body as a unit. (Never needed to remove coolant line at throttle body)

On the 2016 - do you think that a similar type operation is possible? If I support SC on bungies, is there then enough space to get to that coolant line clamp on the rear crossover? OR - do I need to remove throttle body from SC, remove SC, and leave throttle body behind until I disconnect the coolant line?

(You have seen this before - truck is across country until school is out, so I can't just take a look...)

Also, manual clearly states that intercooler gasket can be re-used. But has experience shown that I should just plan on replacing?

As always, many thanks!
Dan

 

[jlglr4]

I know you can remove with throttle body attached. I’m pretty sure you can disconnect the hose at the back and leave that oetiker clamp attached.

Definitely can reuse the intercooler gasket.

 

[txfromwi]

Alignment pins.

HOW LONG did you make yours?
I am ready to go get some bolts and break out the Dremel tool...


And for the library:

Because I need all this ready in advance...
The manual says the bolts at the alignment pin locations are 8mm, but does not specify the thread pitch, so I purchased the applicable bolts from my local Rover dealership.
$3 for one of each on line but plus shipping. $12 for one of each at local dealership - break even...

LR011363
"Engine.Intake.Manifold.Bolt
Upper Engine Intake Manifold to Lower Engine Intake Manifold"
If I got it correct, then this is quantity = 18 and these hold the "intercooler" to the supercharger.
This is T40, 8mmx35mm x 1.25mm threads
Matching Alignment Pin 333-1444-01 for which we are making the substitute.

LR010917
"Bolt.Supercharger.Shield.Intake Manifold"
"Bolt used to fasten Engine Intake Manifold. Supercharger Mounting Bolt."
If I got it correct, then this is quantity = 6 and these hold the intake manifold/supercharger to the block.
This is also T40, 8mmx35mm x 1.25mm threads, but is not threaded all the way to the end.
Matching Alignment Pin 333-1449-01 for which we are making the substitute.

 

[cashgtr313]

I thought I would start a thread to document my shena****ns over the last week. Hopefully, it can help someone else as they wrench on their pride and joy. As a disclaimer, I did not take pics of everything, and I will ask questions of the group to better understand what is going on.

Supercharger removal:

1) remove engine appearance cover and intake
- this picture was taken while I was replacing the driver side injectors. You will notice that the battery box is take apart to gain access for the tool. The manual will tell you to remove the A.C. lines to remove the injectors, but I found that unnecessary. You will also see that the hard fuel line across the front of the intercooler is removed and the electrical connectors have been removed.


View attachment 11556
2) remove the hard lines for the pcv valve to throttle body and the oil separator to intake baffle and remove the fuel purge solenoid from the driver side of the engine. It connects to the throttle body and to the vacuum line on the driver side top of engine

3) remove the intercooler water lines. Push into the intercooler and then press the release tabs. I needed a small flat head to then leverage them off. You need to remove the union on passenger side front, and the y union quick release on the driver side. If you trace the lines, youll see what i mean. Also remove the top crossover pipe.

View attachment 11557
View attachment 11558

4) remove the intercooler from the supercharger. It's about 16 bolts. T40 hex along the outside and 10mm for the 4 bolts on top. There are two longer bolts on the front of the engine. Also, there are two 5/16 bolts holding the engine appearance cover bracket. Gentle force will allow it to pop off
View attachment 11559

5) remove the six bolts from the intake manifolds. On the back, there are two T30 bolts holding the engine harness bracket to the bracket on the back of the supercharger. Remove these and, on the passenger side, pry the electrical harness' tree fittings out of the black bracket. On the driver side, remove the vacuum fitting and the harness from the MAP sensor.
This is also a good time to remove the throttle body. Four T30 bolts and two coolant lines. The passenger side coolant line traces under the supercharger. It is actually attached to the supercharger and terminates at the rear crossover pipe.

6) remove the supercharger belt using a 3/8 socket or breaker bar.

7) there is a pry point behind the oil filter housing. I lined it up to leverage on top of the rear bolt head. The other pry point is behind the throttle body. Once loose, just keep wiggling it to free the supercharger from its press fittings. Don't forget to remove the throttle body coolant line from the bottom of the supercharger!
View attachment 11560

Thanks! For this ! It helped me build confidence in myself to ALMOST complete . what are the part numbers for the support clips that hold the coolant line under the supercharger. These clips keep the line off the oil cooler .2015 LR4 HSE

 

[txfromwi]

Those clips are LR011221, about $2 each at Rover.

As long as you are in there replace the PCV valves and rebuild the supercharger.

Here is the video I made, I hope it's useful. If anyone wants, I also have a video for the V8.