How to: Supercharger Removal, Rear Crossover, and Passenger Valve Cover

[Michael Gain]

I did not realize you had to remove/lift the SC in order to replace this part. Can you post a picture of the coolant pipe you are talking about? I am getting ready to replace all the coolant (plastic) pipes on Wifes '15, and just want to make sure I know what has to come apart...

Tim

Top of the y pipe is where the coolant is soaking into the towel, next to the oil filter housing

Here is the top where the crossover pipe connects to:

With the supercharger removed, you can see the right side leg of the y pipe (black with barcode on it) right behind the oil filter housing

Here it is with supercharger snout and water pump removed When i did it the first time.

I still recommend full removal, not just the snout

 

[timc930]

Thanks. Is that considered the front crossover pipe that has the potential to burst, or is that another pipe on the front.

Do you have a partno for that pipe?

 

[Michael Gain]

Thanks. Is that considered the front crossover pipe that has the potential to burst, or is that another pipe on the front.

Do you have a partno for that pipe?

Upper pipe: LR090630
Lower pipe: LR050935
Plug: LR011038

The upper pipe bursts. However, in my experience, the heat of the block degrades the "feet" of the y pipe (lower pipe) and causes a leak into the channel underneath the oil cooler. The coolant will then flow down the front of your block.

The "feet" were separating from Both of the lower pipes that I replaced.

 

[timc930]

Thanks Michael. I did not order that part with my calling system "refresh" that I am doing. Does this part have the catastrophic failure like the 90630 part does, and is this something that I should go thru the trouble of removing the SC to replace, or just wait until it leaks?

 

[Michael Gain]

Actually, these are the updated parts. They look cast, as opposed to the sandwich looking pipes. The only issue with the updated parts is that you need both.

Good news is that there is no seam. That is where the older pipe normally burst from. If youre installing the updated, upper pipe, you are going to have to install the lower pipe as well.

That means either removing the entire supercharger (add intake manifold gaskets and an intercooler gasket to your cart---but you can preemptively replace the rear crossover), or you need to remove the water pump and supercharger snout (add new water pump, water pump gaskets, oil cooler pipe, and oil cooler o-rings to your cart).

I had a much harder time--and it took longer to remove the snout and lower pipe. They are mutually responsible for getting in the way. There is a bolt to the supercharger snout behind the lower pipe. Likewise, the passenger side, lower pipe bolt is almost underneath the snout (need a 1/4 inch ratchet, extensions, and u-joint to get that little guy.

Oh, and I forgot that removing just the snout requires you to remove the oil filter housing as well. Add oil filter housing gasket to the cart.

Like I said, removal of the supercharger is the easier option. The most annoying part is getting the items unclipped/ unbolted from the back of the supercharger.

 

[jlglr4]

I’ll echo Michael’s remarks - you must do that lower pipe and the best way is to remove the supercharger. The Jaguars used this same engine and if you browse those forums, you’ll see it’s often the lower pipe that goes bad before the upper one.

Once you have the supercharger off, you might as well get at that rear crossover as well. It’s far easier to do it now than to try to do it later with the supercharger on it (if that’s even possible). And there are reports of that rear crossover leaking.

When I did this job, I replaced the front and rear crossovers, water pump (really easy when you have everything apart), thermostat, and supercharger coupler. If you haven’t already done it, you can also replace the pcv diaphragm, which is super easy and cheap while you have the supercharger off.

 

[timc930]

So I have all Rad Hoses, WP,T-Stat, Front and Rear pipes, as well as a bunch of other misc cooling bits that LR-Tampa recommended. I'll get the lower pipe as well.

CodeItemQtyPriceGrand TotalLR011327-107064ITEM 1 - LR4 Drive belt
1$46.39$46.39LR051263-107023ITEM 1 - LR4 Serpentine belt
1$47.72$47.72LR073711-107111ITEM 1 - LR4 Water pump
1$242.99$242.99LR050854-106912ITEM 9 - LR4 Upper hose
1$140.69$140.69LR050855-106888ITEM 10 - LR4 Lower hose
1$112.90$112.90LR014567-106932ITEM 13 - LR4 Overflow hose
1$48.78$48.78LR117568Land Rover Genuine Part Number LR117568 | CONNECTION - WAT
1$74.88$74.88LR033994-106890ITEM 16 - LR4 Tube
1$17.86$17.86LR090630Land Rover Genuine Part Number LR090630 | TUBE - WATER INL
1$42.72$42.72LR092992Land Rover Genuine Part Number LR092992 | TUBE - WATER OUT
1$42.81$42.81LR122710Land Rover Genuine Part Number LR122710 | MANIFOLD - HEATE
1$107.21$107.21LR031393Land Rover Genuine Part Number LR031393 | HOSE AND BRACKET
1$77.60$77.60LR049990Land Rover Genuine Part Number LR049990 | TUBE - THERMOSTA
1$43.40$43.40LR028136Land Rover Genuine Part Number LR028136 | TUBE - OIL COOLE
1$22.26$22.26LR030593Land Rover Genuine Part Number LR030593 | SEAL - OIL COOLE
1$6.88$6.88LR045239Land Rover Genuine Part Number LR045239 | HOSE - THROTTLE
1$39.84$39.84

 

[jlglr4]

You seem to be replacing more hoses than I did, but maybe that’s intentional. My parts list is found in the thread: https://www.landroverworld.org/thre...over-water-pump-thermostat-replacement.42027/

and reproduced below. I did this last summer - not sure if any part numbers might have changed.

I don’t see the actual thermostat in your list - maybe I’m missing it. You should also have new intake manifold gaskets (2) if you are removing the supercharger.

Also, you need to buy the little fill plug for the front crossover separately - parts guy couldn’t believe it, but it was true. I don’t have that part number. It’s around $7-10.

On the supercharger drive belt, there are two differnent lengths for different model years - make sure you get the right length for your year.

One other tip, if you are going to your dealer’s parts counter: I found going to the online shop of the same dealer was much cheaper (up to 40%) on most parts. I’m near the Livermore dealer in CA, so I’d check part numbers with the parts counter, then just go to their online web shop and order it there, pick it up at the parts counter.

LR050855 Lower Hose (Radiator to T-stat, with temp sensor) $108.38 1 $108.38
LR071040 Supercharger Belt $31.20 1 $31.20
LR051263 Serpentine Belt $47.73 1 $47.73
LRN2279 Fluid - Cooling $22.06 1 $22.06
LR090630 Water Manifold (Upper crossover) $42.73 1 $42.73
LR092992 Water Pipe (Lower “Y” pipe) $42.81 1 $42.81
LR097165 Water Pump Assembly $204.11 1 $204.11
LR028136 Oil Cooler Tube $23.15 1 $23.15
LR095895 Engine Coolant Thermostat Kit $71.88 1 $71.88
LR033994 Outlet Tube $18.58 1 $18.58
LR049990 Inlet Tube $43.40 1 $43.40
LR109401 Manifold - Heate (rear crossover) $105.50 1 $105.50
LR041681 Intake Gasket $12.35 2 $24.70
(No part number) Fill plug for upper coolant crossover.

 

[Michael Gain]

Also, you need to buy the little fill plug for the front crossover separately - parts guy couldn’t believe it, but it was true. I don’t have that part number. It’s around $7-10.

(No part number) Fill plug for upper coolant crossover.

Upper pipe: LR090630
Lower pipe: LR050935
Plug: LR011038

 

[greiswig]

I'm replacing the plastic coolant lines, and thought I'd add my own $.02 here on top of this thread, in hopes it helps someone else out. So far, all I've done is remove things...really haven't started the process of replacing them. So there may be an additional followup. FYI, that part alone took me the better part of 4 hours with a couple of breaks, and I don't think of myself as a particularly slow worker; there is a lot of discovery to be done. But the replacing part is going to have to wait a few days (work!), so while it is fresh in my mind:

• After you unplug Fuse 1 (on my vehicle, at least) to disable the fuel pump and bleed fuel pressure, it will take a surprisingly long time for the engine to stop idling. I was sure I’d unplugged the wrong fuse or something. It’ll do the fast idle, then slow to normal idle, then go on like that for a minute or so. Patience, grasshopper. Once you're done, I recommend using aluminum foil folded over on itself several times to make a strong, fuel-proof cap for the fittings on both the fuel line and the ports.
  
• Once you have the intercooler off, the cylinder intakes start to get really exposed. I advise wadding up a couple of paper towels and stuffing them into the open holes both now and after the supercharger is removed. You don’t want debris, fasteners, or anything else falling in there.
• The MAP sensor plug at driver’s side rear of the supercharger is a bear to get off. I ended up finding it easier to use a 7mm socket and pull the sensor out, so that I could see what the connector was once the supercharger was removed.
• The alignment legs and pins are near the center of the block, one each near the #2 and #5 cylinders, so they’re positioned laterally on the engine. These are steel inside aluminum, so they are going to be prone to corrosion and sticking. Mine were really stuck. Pry it up carefully but firmly using a bolthead as a leverage point as Michael Gain said. Once you’ve broken the gasket seat, as long as you have disconnected what Michael said to at the rear, any resistance to lifting you are feeling is those alignment pins. 
The trick I used to help was to pull UP on the supercharger: I attached a strap to two bolts threaded into the intercooler bolt threads, just like you would do when using an engine hoist to pull the block. The strap was looped through a 2x4, which was supported on either side of the vehicle. The strap lets you keep increasing tension as the supercharger starts to move up, and keeps it from dropping down on the knock sensors which are right near those legs. Once you’ve got a good amount of tension in a bowed 2x4, start rocking the supercharger by pulling up and down on the snout. It took a lot of that rocking before the corrosion was breaking free enough to really move. Keep tensioning the strap so that when it finally lets loose, it will levitate a little above the engine.
Rest assured I will be putting some anti-corrosion grease on those before it goes back on.
• Supercharger off is a good time to change the supercharger’s oil. The combination fill and drain plug are on the top of the supercharger at the rear, an allen plug. It will take awhile to completely drain it, so just let it go while you wrestle with the coolant lines or whatever. Eaton is pretty stringent on only using their recommended oil to fill it!
• The chain of coolant hoses and couplings and thermostat housing and electrical connectors and ….STUFF…on the driver’s side of the engine is a PITA to deal with. You won’t be able to remove it as a whole unit, but you also don’t have to disassemble the whole thing in situ. Look at your new components to see how they are assembled, and use that as a guide. This will also help you get a bead on what kind of mechanism is used to lock components together, and how to get the old ones apart.
• I typically replace all spring clamps with screw-on ones, but in this case I don’t think it would make service appreciably easier because everything is so bloody hard to reach anyway. And the way the new parts come assembled, the spring clamps are definitely easier to install: just seat the hose, orient it properly, then trip the spring release to clamp it.