How to understand compression issue. Rings or Valves? Video attracted

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malibulr4

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I have a 2011 Lr4 with a misfire detected in cylinder 5 and CEL on. The spark plug, injector, and coil was changed but still a misfire.. Next, the mechanic did a compression test and upon start up you can see in the video that the compression slowly rises from 50 to about 110. He stated that this was not normal and indicated an internal mechanical failure. He said the needle should have jumped up to the big point right away. He does not believe there is a head gasket issue. Some other factors to consider. The car has 145k and about 3 months ago a code did pop up regarding timing that went away. The mechanic said is was some sort of variable timing sensor that should be replaced if it keeps pooping back up. Code cleared and didnt come back but occasional did hear some pinging and low rpm's. Also, a few times when I depressed the pedal to the floor, a **** of smoke would shoot out the back tailpipe James Bond style!
So my question is this. How does one figure out if this is a valve issue or a ring issue? One repair shop is suggesting a rebuit engine for $9k installed but first wants to fill the cylinder with liquid to determine if it needs just a head job (and timing chain) for $6k or all new engine rebuilt for $9k.
As a last ditch effort, I threw a can of Seafoam in the engine and a can of Restore in the oil. Cleared the code and drove for 30 min without the light coming on. Turned off the car and started it up again and the code came back again. I would love anyones advice on next steps. I am hearing mixed opinions about the heads even being able to be rebuilt on these engines. Something about a double head gasket being used to compensate for the loss of thickness when the head is milled. My mechanic, who worked for 20 years at a dealer, does not believe heads can be done on the lr4.
 

ktm525

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Almost looks like a stuck ring. Although if that **** of smoke was white and sweet it is pointing towards the heads. I believe the heads are rebuildable, documented on this site.
 

ktm525

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Loosen your oil cap while running is it blowing or sucking?
 

malibulr4

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Tried Restore product for the rings, Seafoam in the tank, and Seafoam in the induction. If clear the CEL light it will stay off for about 30 minutes then come back on. No evidence of a head gasket failure since only one cylinder is misfiring and has low compression. At RMPs above 800 its very smooth. At 600 rpm you can feel a rough idea and the misfire. $9k was the cost to replace the engine with w 1 year warranty from a shop in Burbank that only does Rovers. Ive spent thousands this last year doing the control arms, all pipes and rubber related to cooling system, thermostat, valve cover gaskets, and compressor. Torn between selling it for $5 or $6 k since it has a winch, roof rack and is clean or just shelling out the money and drive it for a few more years. I likely would have had to do the timing chain for $3k so I guess I'm looking at about a $6k price for an engine that might be good for a while. what would you do? Trade it in at a Carmax?
 

ktm525

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Could still be a cracked/warped head only affecting the one cylinder. Tough choice. If it were me I would buy another vehicle and turn this into a project.
 

Stuart Barnes

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So at above 800 rpm it’s smooth?

1. how much did you pay for it.
If not a crazy price then part ex it for another and take off the bits.

3. If you put a lot into it then run it into the ground and then think about the replacement engine.

4. if you’re I Malibu. I’m not too far away. Have you had all the codes pulled by an iid tool?
 

BeemerNut

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That engine on cold or hot cranking without igniton should of had an uneven cranking speed over that low compression cylinder. Problem noticed right away.
That alone besides CEL number 5 cylinder as fault should of had a leakdown check done first on that cylinder.
Pressurized number 5 listening at the intake and tailpipe for leaking valve issues at intake or exhaust plus at the oil filler check for leaking rings.
Also a leakdown check on the other seven cylinders to compare.

This first test before spending money replacing plug, coil and injector.

My bet it's a head issue and not time for an engine rebuild or replacement $$$$$$$$$.

I got involved (suckered in) on a friends new to him 5.0 LR4 that was dirt cheap needing "minor attention and a little money to get running". Mint body was a purchase plus.

It had a bad head only costing $250 for a pair of good used 5.0 heads before tax and evironmental fees plus core charges. Two months checking then a donor showed up.
Gaskets and other top end required parts plus the "as is" LR4 purchase now up and running a $2,600 in total LR4 investment. If too expensive of repair to part it out next time recovering his $2,600 investment. Time will tell.
We lucked out on the heads off a totalled low mileage LR4 plus removed the timing chain guides and chains. First ones to strip all we wanted.

Block and bores fine, no decking the replacement heads required just a proper cleanup then checking for flatness which they were flat.

I own a Bridgeport mill and can mill heads if required vs paying for that service.

Take your time in a warm heated shop and not in a rush making your repair life easy.

What I learned from this freebie ADVENTURE helping a friend, I can not be bribed again into work on another PITA 5.0 LR engine.

Helping others working with their 3.9, 4.0 or 4.6 push rod LR engines yes.....~~=o&o>......
 

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