I have a 2011 Lr4 with a misfire detected in cylinder 5 and CEL on. The spark plug, injector, and coil was changed but still a misfire.. Next, the mechanic did a compression test and upon start up you can see in the video that the compression slowly rises from 50 to about 110. He stated that this was not normal and indicated an internal mechanical failure. He said the needle should have jumped up to the big point right away. He does not believe there is a head gasket issue. Some other factors to consider. The car has 145k and about 3 months ago a code did pop up regarding timing that went away. The mechanic said is was some sort of variable timing sensor that should be replaced if it keeps pooping back up. Code cleared and didnt come back but occasional did hear some pinging and low rpm's. Also, a few times when I depressed the pedal to the floor, a **** of smoke would shoot out the back tailpipe James Bond style!
So my question is this. How does one figure out if this is a valve issue or a ring issue? One repair shop is suggesting a rebuit engine for $9k installed but first wants to fill the cylinder with liquid to determine if it needs just a head job (and timing chain) for $6k or all new engine rebuilt for $9k.
As a last ditch effort, I threw a can of Seafoam in the engine and a can of Restore in the oil. Cleared the code and drove for 30 min without the light coming on. Turned off the car and started it up again and the code came back again. I would love anyones advice on next steps. I am hearing mixed opinions about the heads even being able to be rebuilt on these engines. Something about a double head gasket being used to compensate for the loss of thickness when the head is milled. My mechanic, who worked for 20 years at a dealer, does not believe heads can be done on the lr4.
So my question is this. How does one figure out if this is a valve issue or a ring issue? One repair shop is suggesting a rebuit engine for $9k installed but first wants to fill the cylinder with liquid to determine if it needs just a head job (and timing chain) for $6k or all new engine rebuilt for $9k.
As a last ditch effort, I threw a can of Seafoam in the engine and a can of Restore in the oil. Cleared the code and drove for 30 min without the light coming on. Turned off the car and started it up again and the code came back again. I would love anyones advice on next steps. I am hearing mixed opinions about the heads even being able to be rebuilt on these engines. Something about a double head gasket being used to compensate for the loss of thickness when the head is milled. My mechanic, who worked for 20 years at a dealer, does not believe heads can be done on the lr4.