O.K. after the ABS light came on and everyone stopped crying when the rover failed to brake at an intersection. I have replaced the FRONT PADS. The pistons were a PITA !!! Only one ?? for the crew. There were these little springs between the pads/calipers over the cotter pins. They were broke and very well rusted and in general mangled. I threw them away. Is that ok? Should I buy new ones? What is their purpose? I know that I should be able to answer this question myself ..But I have no clue. TIA. RRRoverChic
I cant believe that I am asking this ...
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Sergei
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LOL.. No prob. So what was that thing about new lights?
ABS is very weird device in Discos as it seems. Mine like to kick in on trail and **** me off royally. Many people actually pulling fuse out to not get brake failures at some unexpected moments. However mine worked so far ok on pavement. But then i am very picky on stopping
ABS sensors becoming fouled with all the oil inside swivels, so its another part to be watched after and cleaned every now and then, IMHO. But if you do it - be very carefull - they are expensive.
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To benefit of others: yes those springs are strategic device that shall prevent your pads from side-to-side rattling. You can drive without them for a while, but it will get on your nerves and pads will be bouncing all other the place and braking will be kind of funny.
Its worth to either buy kit with both pins and springs (they are like 17$ or something) or you can just rush to hardware store and try to find not-quite-OEM solution there At the price - i'd suggest to get genuine ones.
ABS is very weird device in Discos as it seems. Mine like to kick in on trail and **** me off royally. Many people actually pulling fuse out to not get brake failures at some unexpected moments. However mine worked so far ok on pavement. But then i am very picky on stopping
ABS sensors becoming fouled with all the oil inside swivels, so its another part to be watched after and cleaned every now and then, IMHO. But if you do it - be very carefull - they are expensive.
---
To benefit of others: yes those springs are strategic device that shall prevent your pads from side-to-side rattling. You can drive without them for a while, but it will get on your nerves and pads will be bouncing all other the place and braking will be kind of funny.
Its worth to either buy kit with both pins and springs (they are like 17$ or something) or you can just rush to hardware store and try to find not-quite-OEM solution there
At the price - i'd suggest to get genuine ones."So what was that thing about new lights?" ..Ha ha. I meant that I had a new light on now on the dashboard..The CEL, The ABS... Will it ever end? Yeah..those springs were dirty and rusty looking. I guess I should have ordered the kit. Oh well I was in a "rush" after I got the call.."oh my gosh the rover will not stop"..All I kept thinking was please what ever you do DO NOT THROW IT INTO PARK.
Sergei
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Is ABS gone now? After new pads?
As of CEL - is it still same bank issue from O2 sensor? I keep thinking that may be you should just pull them both out on that bank and clean throughly and see if bloody thing will go away... They may be simply fouled by one of brave seafoaming attempts (Muhhahahahahahaha)
As of CEL - is it still same bank issue from O2 sensor? I keep thinking that may be you should just pull them both out on that bank and clean throughly and see if bloody thing will go away... They may be simply fouled by one of brave seafoaming attempts
(Muhhahahahahahaha)Muhaahhhaaa
Is ABS gone now? After new pads? ~ For now the ABS has not come back on... (let me find some wood)..You know what was really weird Serg the right passenger side brake pads were worn all the way down (not quite metal to metal) where as the left driver side pads were still *ok*. Any thoughts on that one for a brain stumper?
CEL is off now..Cleared codes (HA HA ..FAST AS FAST CAN BE LUCAS YOU WILL NEVER GET ME) Yup PD CODES= P1188 and P1185 02 Sensors..I bet you are right blasted SeaFoam. Grrrr!!!
Is ABS gone now? After new pads? ~ For now the ABS has not come back on... (let me find some wood)..You know what was really weird Serg the right passenger side brake pads were worn all the way down (not quite metal to metal) where as the left driver side pads were still *ok*. Any thoughts on that one for a brain stumper?
CEL is off now..Cleared codes (HA HA ..FAST AS FAST CAN BE LUCAS YOU WILL NEVER GET ME)
Yup PD CODES= P1188 and P1185 02 Sensors..I bet you are right blasted SeaFoam. Grrrr!!!
Sergei
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Hmm.. Do you happen to notice any difference in rotors surface when were replacing them? Or is there side pulling when you applying brakes?
Uneven pad wear may be sign of stuck brake calipers. Or just one of rotors really really need to be replaced/resurfaced
If none of above - then it could be b/c of those rusty springs, so one of pads been gong closer to rotor all the time, thus wearing off faster.
Uneven pad wear may be sign of stuck brake calipers. Or just one of rotors really really need to be replaced/resurfaced
If none of above - then it could be b/c of those rusty springs, so one of pads been gong closer to rotor all the time, thus wearing off faster.
RoverChic,
What about the parking brake? Nothing I enjoy more than pulling up on the parking brake as hard as possible with a car full of unsuspecting people Just make sure you can keep control and don't tip the thing as you screetch to a stop.
What about the parking brake? Nothing I enjoy more than pulling up on the parking brake as hard as possible with a car full of unsuspecting people
Just make sure you can keep control and don't tip the thing as you screetch to a stop.
Roverhound
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The cel light. I have software to observe my sensors, read faults and reset them. I had been getting the ses light (2000 d2) since installing a snorkel and at odd moments before that.
Fault told me that my right and left banks were running too lean. All of my sensors appeared to be working fine.
What I did is bought some electronic degreaser/contact cleaner, removed the MAF and cleaned the inside including the plug that the wires plug into.
The MAF was not quite reading all the air that was coming in therefore the o2 sensors were thinking too much air was getting into the system.
I have not had the light come on for more then 1000 miles now whereas before it was coming on right after it was reset.
I know Sergei, you are going to say don't spray anything in your MAF. I am an electrical technician with more then 12 years experiance on delicate electrical systems. If you use a quick drying product that is made specifically for electronics you'll be ok. Lowes sell CRC, this is what I used with positive results.
Fault told me that my right and left banks were running too lean. All of my sensors appeared to be working fine.
What I did is bought some electronic degreaser/contact cleaner, removed the MAF and cleaned the inside including the plug that the wires plug into.
The MAF was not quite reading all the air that was coming in therefore the o2 sensors were thinking too much air was getting into the system.
I have not had the light come on for more then 1000 miles now whereas before it was coming on right after it was reset.
I know Sergei, you are going to say don't spray anything in your MAF. I am an electrical technician with more then 12 years experiance on delicate electrical systems. If you use a quick drying product that is made specifically for electronics you'll be ok. Lowes sell CRC, this is what I used with positive results.
Sergei
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Walter, here is the thing about spraying MAFs.
Ones in 3.9L engine are "heat stripe". Ones in 4L engine (or at least D2s, that i seen on pictures) are string in middle of things. Principle on how it works is dead simple - its thermoresistor. It is still beyound me why they cost so much. But then TPS which is potentiometer and those temp sensors (thermoresistors as well) are around 100$ too. Go figure.
So actual reason behind whole thing to not spray it are:
- protective layer will be damaged
- you will leave some liquid and then it will boil (thanks to exhaust nearby) and create conditions to damage thermo stripe/string. Also if its going inside those tiny holes too dip it may shorten wires.
Thats about it. If you aware that you got to clean thingy throughly, and if you let it dry and you know that cleaner didnt contain any oily substances (as they wont evaporate) and wont leave any residue - its ok to spray/wipe.
I cleaned mine when i got truck, and cleaned it recently. And no light came up. Its just that most of people, unless warned throughly, will drown poor thing
And i dont have 12 yrs of exp. in delicate electrical systems.
Ones in 3.9L engine are "heat stripe". Ones in 4L engine (or at least D2s, that i seen on pictures) are string in middle of things. Principle on how it works is dead simple - its thermoresistor. It is still beyound me why they cost so much. But then TPS which is potentiometer and those temp sensors (thermoresistors as well) are around 100$ too. Go figure.
So actual reason behind whole thing to not spray it are:
- protective layer will be damaged
- you will leave some liquid and then it will boil (thanks to exhaust nearby) and create conditions to damage thermo stripe/string. Also if its going inside those tiny holes too dip it may shorten wires.
Thats about it. If you aware that you got to clean thingy throughly, and if you let it dry and you know that cleaner didnt contain any oily substances (as they wont evaporate) and wont leave any residue - its ok to spray/wipe.
I cleaned mine when i got truck, and cleaned it recently. And no light came up. Its just that most of people, unless warned throughly, will drown poor thing
And i dont have 12 yrs of exp. in delicate electrical systems.
