LR4 Binding Brakes

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jlglr4

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Never heard of electronically resetting the brakes.

When you do the rear brakes, you need to put the e-brake in a "service position." And, if replacing rear rotors or the e-brake pads, you're supposed to follow a bedding-in procedure. But both of these things can be accomplished at home - no need to use dealer.
 

ktm525

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No need to place the rear brakes in service position, even if you are replacing parking shoes. Just DON'T TOUCH the e brake controller during the process lol. Bodsy's bible will guide you.
 

Gravy

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I struggle why it is not common practice to strip and clean disc brake calipers when you replace pads. Takes little effort and some fluid wastage to pump the piston out of the caliper. Remove the seal, clean the seal grove, polish the caliper bore and piston and reassemble. Provided the seal is not scored or you dont damage it removing it there is no need for exchange. You do a fluid exchange and remove any gumming in the process.

To remove the seized caliper piston, clamp it in a vice with a suitable diameter spacer inserted in the piston cavity, this will get the piston moving. Then reconnect the caliper to the brake line, bleed screw shut, brake fluid replenished. Pump the pedal, pressure will displace the caliper piston. This process has worked for me on calipers that have been frozen solid with rust.
 

puckball55

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Owners/Enthusiasts,
I’m posting here because I’m stumped and frustrated. Having repeated issues with binding brakes on my 2011 LR4.

About a year ago I replaced the rotors and pads myself. I hadn’t done a brake job in 20+ years but a friend and fellow Rover owner showed me the way. Nothing much has changed in those years.

After about 5 months I started noticing a bit of a shudder in the steering wheel which got worse over a few weeks. Until one day I hit the freeway and started feeling a tremendous shudder. Pulled off and noticed the Right Front wheel was warm to touch and the rotor was sizzling. After cooling down dropped it off at our local shop close to home, that has service our Toyotas and GMC over the years. I would have preferred taking it to my local Rover only shop, but they were further away and booked out.

The local shop did an inspection and said the EBC rotors/pads I had installed were cheap, bad and needed replacing (BS alert activated). As I was about to leave town for 10 days I didn’t have the luxury of 2nd opinions. They replaced it all with high carbon rotors and Akebono ceramic pads. Everything ran smoothly for 6mo/ 6,000 miles.

In the last few weeks the shudder has returned. At first I thought maybe the snow tires I had just reinstalled had thrown a weight, and were out of balance. But it persisted and got worse. After a freeway drive I parked and checked the wheels/rotors and discovered that same right front was sizzling hot again.

Took it back to the same shop for an inspection. Now they are telling me the brake booster and master cylinder are bad. A “known issue on these vehicles” he tells me. $1800 please. The hairs on my neck started standing up so I pulled the rig back to “research my options”.

In the meantime I called my local Rover shop that has done most of the (plentiful) work on it over the last 7 years. They tell me they cannot recall ever having a repair issue with the brake booster or master on the LR4s or RR Sport. Unfortunately their service calendar is booked out 4+ weeks. Really unfortunate as we are hitting prime skiing season and this is my snow mobile. Tried another brake specialty shop and they are booked out a week to just look at it.

There is definitely a binding of some sort going on that can be felt even at slow speeds. Heats up quick. A friend suggested driving with the ESC off, but same result. Pulled out a meat thermo and measured the right front at 340 degrees F. Left side at 90 degrees. Not really comfortable even driving to the grocery store at this point. So I’m throwing this out to the collective intelligence. Does this smell like an issue you've had before? Any DIY tests you can recommend to find a solution sooner?

Thanks in advance!
this wont be helpful sorry mine is shuttering too just started after driving it 1000 miles through the mountains. i had brakes and rotors 25000 miles ago and i used land rover pads. my jaguar mech thinks its brakes and rotors again
 

ryanjl

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When was the last time you had your front control arm bushings (or control arms) replaced?
 

LR4 2011

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I have the same issue and have replaced everything, I am going to flush master cylinder and see if the left front port has debris or a bad seal.
I may also look for a TSB with the brake pulling to one side
 

ugmw177

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+1 on the LCAs or bushings My right front LCA is just starting to knock a bit and the brakes are now feeling a little like a warped rotor. I think when you step on the brake at low speed with worn LCAs, it causes a bit of a shimmy
 

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