LR4 "Smart" Charging Charging Strategy

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drivesafe

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I have been running a traxide dual battery system for a long while. I don't think the "smart" system does a good job of ever bringing both batteries up to a full charge.
Hi avslash, there are around 5,000 Traxide kits fitted to D3s, D4s and RRSs world wide, and it is usually short driving trips and/or long periods of not driving at all, that reduces battery capacity.

Have you given your batteries some good long charges with an AC battery charger?
 

avslash

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My complaint is not with Traxide, that kit works fine. It's the "smart" charging strategy of the LR4 that causes the issue.

But yes, I also have an onboard NOCO charger with plug mounted in the bumper. When truck is not driven it is generally plugged in to charge/maintain.
 

CRYA

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Ha now I see this after spending too much time routing the ignition trigger for my dc-dc charger. Had I been able to make my alternator dumb, I guess I wouldn’t have needed the trigger wire from F60! Now I want to also get my Ccf unlocked. Can someone confirm the menu option to change?
 

CRYA

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Hey @djkaosone @avslash can you guys confirm the CCF BMS disable and non-BMS groundstrap have been running smoothly? I just installed my dc-dc and would love it if I knew my lithium battery was getting full charge
 

djkaosone

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I kept the oem bms in place. I never really got it working the way I wanted. I gave up after a 3 days of messing with it. I may need to pick this back up and try again. You'll need to reach out to Patrick (email) at Gap Diagnostics to allow your device to load the "Untested" CCF view.
 

avslash

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I updated the ccf to the "no bms" status, but I'm not sure it ever did anything. BMS is still in place, and if you disconnect the sensor it still throws the warning light.

I have since made two changes that have made me reasonably happy. First, I added a 120 watt solar panel on the hood, and secondly, I replaced the factory alternator with the higher output "Power Bastards" alternator. Since then I have yet to experience a flat house or starting battery and charging voltage hovers between 13.0 and 14.1.

I have run a parked test since those last two changes by leaving the Rover in my driveway with fridge on for 5 days and it started right up at the end of five days. Thats good enough for me, as all I really wanted to accomplish was the ability to camp and still have the truck start. I'm currently running two Optima yellow tops combo batteries fwiw.
 

djkaosone

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@avslash I have a very similar setup. I went with the Lensun hood solar panel, GoPower dual bank controller (Aux 1st, Starting 2nd), Redarc dc-dc charger (with solar, just in case, but not used), and a Power Bastards ** alternator (based on your other thread). I'm also pretty happy with the setup. Oh and my aux battery is an Optima blue top.
 

avslash

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@avslash I have a very similar setup. I went with the Lensun hood solar panel, GoPower dual bank controller (Aux 1st, Starting 2nd), Redarc dc-dc charger (with solar, just in case, but not used), and a Power Bastards ** alternator (based on your other thread). I'm also pretty happy with the setup. Oh and my aux battery is an Optima blue top.

Yep. My solar panel is the Lensun as well. That feeds to a Victron 15 amp charge controller that is tied directly to the aux battery. The Victron is handy because it has blue-tooth built in which allows me to keep an eye on the amperage output of the solar panel to the aux battery and it's charge level.

My two batteries are separated by a Traxide isolator. It can operate either automatically or via switch in the cab. When the isolator is closed the solar panel serves to charge both batteries, when it is open, the solar charges the aux battery only. With the exception of the winch, all accessories are wired to this aux battery (radios, fridge, lights, spare 12v outlets, on board air, etc., etc.). There is also a voltage cutout built into the Traxide system that will automatically disconnect the starting and aux batteries if voltage falls below a certain threshold.

The starting battery, obviously, is tied to the alternator. Once the alternator spins up, the Traxide supplies charging current to both batteries. I also have a NOCO charger mounted under the hood tied to the starting battery. When the Traxide isolator is closed, this will serve to keep both batteries topped up and is useful for camping when shore power is available or when wanting to maintain the batteries at home.

Finally, I also have an additional solar panel I have prewired in parallel to the permanent panel on the hood that I can throw out when camping to increase the charging capacity to the aux battery.

The short synopsis of this wall of text is that I am as happy as I have ever been with the electrical system on my truck.
 

djkaosone

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Haha! I did the same thing with a folding 100W solar panel with an extra long 25ft (idk) cable to hook into the solar controller too. I also have 2 portable jumper packs just in case too. I guess once we've been burned with electrical power issues, we over prepare. :rock:
 

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