LR4 Transmission Fluid Change: Pan Swap Option

[mbw]

Don't understand what is so funny. You don't think having a lift allows you to take good photos of the underside of a vehicle?

You missed the previous joke. He was adding on to that comment. He is not being sarcastic. All in good fun.

 

[catman]

Don't understand what is so funny. You don't think having a lift allows you to take good photos of the underside of a vehicle?

yes...plus it let's you see the underside of the tranny

Oy vey, the thread sure took a strange turn! No disrespect meant to anyone!

 

[Pfunk951]

Whoa! I better get this thread back on track with some good news...

Gentlemen, the goods:

... and the filter and instructions:

Everything arrived in great shape, and well packed.

What's up with that M6 tap business in the directions? I'm guessing that the supplied bolts are longer, therefore will screw farther into threads that were exposed to the elements..?

These don't seem like stretch bolts, does anyone have an idea why can't I use the old ones if this becomes a problem during the process?

I'll have a couple more questions later tonight about stuff on the outer transmission case, it looks like the FSM has some things being removed that I'm not sure I have to take off.

Someone turn on the Umberto bat-signal while I go frantically find some local febi bilstein fluid..

Taking shape!

Mike

 

[tenzer]

Thanks for updating the post with pics of the parts. I am curious to find out how the quality of the pan and filter compare to the OE parts. This is a painted steel pan vs the plastic OE, correct? Do the parts you received have the manufacturers name on it?

 

[Pfunk951]

The pan is painted steel, and of a pretty thick gauge- it's heavy. The quality of it looks very high, no chips, scratches, or anything else noteworthy. There aren't any markings or symbols on it.

The filter is pretty stout, it has no markings on it except pa66 gf30%, which I know as the high grade glass-nylon that it's made of. Well crimped and sealed. If the filter neck on the pan in the truck is as thick as this one, it's going to take awhile to saw through it..

All in all, the kit is of much better quality than the factory ones I put in my Jeep and Toyota. No red flags so far..

Mike

 

[Quijote]

yes...plus it let's you see the underside of the tranny

sorry, too hard to resist. If you have not caught on yet, it was sort of a LGBT reference when he said "tranny party" at your house. All in good fun, no disrespect intended to anyone I am sure.

Sorry. Obviously missed the previous post! Busy day.

 

[Quijote]

Whoa! I better get this thread back on track with some good news...

Gentlemen, the goods:

View attachment 6827


... and the filter and instructions:

View attachment 6828

Everything arrived in great shape, and well packed.

What's up with that M6 tap business in the directions? I'm guessing that the supplied bolts are longer, therefore will screw farther into threads that were exposed to the elements..?

These don't seem like stretch bolts, does anyone have an idea why can't I use the old ones if this becomes a problem during the process?

I'll have a couple more questions later tonight about stuff on the outer transmission case, it looks like the FSM has some things being removed that I'm not sure I have to take off.

Someone turn on the Umberto bat-signal while I go frantically find some local febi bilstein fluid..

Taking shape!

Mike

The M6 tap directions are no big deal. The screws likely had some thread locker applied. As a result, when you remove them, along with potential corrosion (they mention it), it will make the threads really gunky. This is not just a nuisance, as it can significantly affect the preload the screws are supposed to impart. In effect, despite the right torque, your screws would not be tight enough and oil could leak.

As an FYI, most torque-to-preload calculations assume perfectly clean threads and often with the screw dipped in oil.

Anyhow, running a tap is a well-known method for cleaning threads. IMPORTANT: If you do this, you should exercise caution and use as little torque as possible. You DO NOT want to cross thread the tapped holes. If they are aluminum (I hope not) then you REALLY have to be careful. Go very easy on the torque and make sure you tap is nice and straight (coaxial with the tapped hole).

Final note: **** retentive guys will tell you not to use a thread cutting tap, but rather special thread-chasing taps, designed especially for cleaning and not cutting new threads, again, to prevent the risk of cross-threading. I think as long as you are careful and the threads are not already cross threaded, regular thread cutting taps will work.

Despite the thread engagement comment, I really doubt they are asking you to cut more threads. Maybe in not cleaning the threads, the torque goes through the roof trying to get the extra length of the screw in and the bolts snap? Hard to tell without looking at it.

 

[ryanjl]

I'll have a couple more questions later tonight about stuff on the outer transmission case, it looks like the FSM has some things being removed that I'm not sure I have to take off.

The videos I have seen online (for the LR3, which I believe is similar, if not the exact same process as for the LR4) make getting to the transmission pan look like an ordeal.

However, I have read elsewhere online where some people have been able to do it without as many steps (I believe it was without removing the exhaust section). It appears as if the issue is getting the filler neck out of the transmission when pulling the pan.

I just noticed that you are also in KC. When are you planning on doing this? I can lend a hand if I'm available.

 

[stufrowin]

I just changed mine out a few months ago in my driveway and yes it was a pain but manageable. My 2011 lr4 was a little different than video didn't have to remove entire exhaust and o2 sensors stayed on. I can't visualize how you would get this new pan in with the limited clearance. Some of the pan bolts were very space limited and undoing the motor mount seemed helpful.

Definitely interested in your outcome as I really don't want to do this job again. Hardest parts for me upper exhaust bolts (use a lot of liquid wrench) ( don't drop them inside frame as they are non magnetic maybe ceramic) fill was hard for me, use a clean mighty vac in reverse and wear welding gloves to protect from exhaust.

Good luck!
Stuart

 

[Pfunk951]

Quick question: Can I use Mercon SP? It appears to have been formulated for the ZF 6HP26 and 6hp28..

I ask because the local shop doesn't have enough Land Rover branded fluid to do the job, and I'll have to wait until next week to get some in. If I can use the Mercon SP I can get started in 45 minutes..

Thanks!

Mike