Discussion in 'LR4' started by rickyn f355, Nov 5, 2018.
One strut - 1500 from dealer
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Here's the history on my ordered 2013 LR4 HSE LUX (HD pkg + BLK pkg). Took delivery late September 2013.
3,049 miles 2/27/2014 - Oil+filter change Castrol Pro OE 5W-20 (self)
7,184 miles 10/15/2014 - Oil+filter change Castrol Pro OE 5W-20 (dealer)
14,978 miles 10/10/2015 - Oil+filter change Castrol Pro OE 5W-20 (self)
23,250 miles 11/4/2016 - Oil+filter change Castrol Pro OE 5W-20 (self)
23,375 miles 11/19/216 - Full brake fluid flush with Castrol DOT4 + OEM rear pads (self)
24,999 miles 4/8/2017 - New Bosch wiper blades and OEM cabin air filter (self)
28,875 miles 11/13/2017 - Oil+filter change Mobil 1 EP 5W-20 (self)
31,907 miles 8/31/2018 - new battery X2Power Premium AGM (self)
32,661 miles 12/2/2018 - OEM front pads (self)
32,694 miles 12/9/2018 - Oil+filter change Mobil 1 EP 5W-20 (self)
Only two dealer visits for warranty repair (all fixed):
1) Driver seat stopped moving forward/back.
Left mirror would not unfold
Left mirror (glass) would rattle at hwy speed.
2) Burnt out left headlamp
That's it. Two visits. Both around 2-3 years of ownership.
I just took off the factory Conti's at almost 24k miles total. They have some life left, but I will likely buy new A/T tires this spring. The rest of the miles were put on Hakka R2 SUV winter tires (so about 8.5k miles so far).
now the lower control arms need replacing!
The upshot of this job is that you'll think the truck drives like new afterwards, even if you thought it drove fine before. I haven't noticed a difference in the way my LR4 drives after my other two big-ticket jobs (air compressor, timing chain and guides), but replacing the control arms makes it drive like a dream.
I found a local indy who let me supply my own parts, and bought the control arms from Lucky 8. All-told, I think it was a little under $800, including alignment.
yeh im paying 1100 for both front LCA and alignment. do the rear control arms go as well? also going to replace the right front strut while he is at it. didnt want the stealer to do it when they did the left front strut cple weeks ago
I think the rear ones go eventually, but after quite a few more miles than the fronts.
...only rear control arms I have heard of needing replaced on an LR3 at least, are ones that had polybushes installed. The thinking there was that the stiffer polys transferred more of the load into the control arm and caused it to fail.
The reason the fronts get replaced is because the rear bushing on the lower arm is filled with a hydraulic fluid and it eventually leaks. That causes a "knock" in the suspension. Rather than removing the bush and pressing in new ones, it's easier to simply replace the control arm.
Yes my LAC are actually fine but the bushings are shot so an replacing everything
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I'm looking for a DIY 'how to' on this. I replaced the whole tank & didn't see how the sensor might be changed. Thanks.
When you pull the recovery tank there is a black piece that the wires clip into. Disconnect the wriring clip and yank the black plastic piece out of the tank. Shove the new sensor piece in and connect wire. That is all there is to it. If you siphon off your tank before removing it and plug off the return coolant line to tank (you will need to remove a few items to access the tank bottom and turn your tank sideways. ) you will lose very little coolant. I lost maybe 100mL.
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