Rear Brake Pad Issue

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dishsoap1

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Hi,

I always do my own brake pads on my 96' disco. I buy the $30 dollar pads from Autozone without a problem until now. The pads on my rear brakes do not stay in place. They end up angling down and the outboard pads are rubbing on the bottom of the rotor. This is causing a grinding noise, as well as uneven wear on the pads.

Is this caused by worn rotors or a bad caliper? My rotors are old, but they only appear to be slightly thinner then brand new.

Thanks
 

Chongo

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Rear Brake Pad Issue

Hi,

I always do my own brake pads on my 96' disco. I buy the $30 dollar pads from Autozone without a problem until now. The pads on my rear brakes do not stay in place. They end up angling down and the outboard pads are rubbing on the bottom of the rotor. This is causing a grinding noise, as well as uneven wear on the pads.

Is this caused by worn rotors or a bad caliper? My rotors are old, but they only appear to be slightly thinner then brand new.

Thanks



Hello Dishsoap1:

My experience with auto zone pads are that they are soft and generate a lot of thermal conditions without really adding to the stopping power. This thermal condition is hard on your rotors and caliper dust boots. Thin rotors will accelerate brake fade and decrease brake component life. There is a law on how thin rotors can be before a shop is legally bound not to turn them. You may be past this limit. Also auto zone may have switched vendors who they get their pads from.

Brake pads are a frictional device which either grabs quickly, or just generates a lot of heat. Since Work is equal to Force times distance, ( W=FD ) the greater the values For “F” and “D” the greater the work value. But when dissimilar materials are used, Sometimes “F” can be exponentially increased with little effect in reducing “D”. This just simply generates heat. The pads must be matched to the material design of the rotors believe it or not. Using one brand on another usually leads to disaster, or dumb luck, and I’ve seen a lot of dumb luck …… lol . This combination will work but is usually short lived just like what you are experiencing. This relationship between pad surface and rotor surface needs to grab well, or it simply just generates heat, and drastically shortens the life of the rotor, pads, and other brake components, And usually talks to you in a squeaky form……..lol. The composition of the pad must be engineered so it bites into the rotor sort of speak. This is where similar materials work well, hence the composition of most brake pads, Semi Metallic.

Usually good combinations come from the stealerships. However many aftermarket suppliers are just as good, or even better. I have been using the products I buy from “Fast Under Car” in Ventura, California phone: 1 – 805 – 495 – 3410 They’ll ship them anywhere, and the quality is top notch, never had an issue with these guys. I have also had good success with Napa and Kragen Oreilly. Since the Oreilly family bought out Kragen auto parts, I have nothing but good things to say about the store.

First thing I would do is get the rotors to someone who can determine if they are useable or not.

Second, if the rotors are usable, try and find out if the rotors are oem or aftermarket, and who manufactured them. I this is known, buy pads from the same manufacturer. If this is an unknown, I would scrap both rotors and pads and start new. This will achieve best results, trying other pads may work too, but likely to be short lived

Best wishes………… Chongo
:bandit:
 

greg409

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Hi,

I always do my own brake pads on my 96' disco. I buy the $30 dollar pads from Autozone without a problem until now. The pads on my rear brakes do not stay in place. They end up angling down and the outboard pads are rubbing on the bottom of the rotor. This is causing a grinding noise, as well as uneven wear on the pads.

Is this caused by worn rotors or a bad caliper? My rotors are old, but they only appear to be slightly thinner then brand new.

Thanks


I'm not sure how they can **** if they're the correct pads, as there's a bottoming rail cast into the caliper.
The top of the pad has (2) stainless stabilizing clips holding the pad down onto rail?

(@ least my '97 does)

luck,greg
 

Chongo

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Rave manual:


To make sure you have all the correct parts in place, I would download this rave manual and see if there is something missing in the rear brake system, I have not had good success with auto zone.

http://www.landroverresource.com/


Best wishes………….. Chongo
:bandit:
 

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