Some suspension fault codes this morning

Discussion in 'LR4' started by ryanjl, Nov 19, 2019.

  1. scott schmerge

    scott schmerge Full Access Member

    Age:
    43
    Posts:
    456
    Likes Received:
    168
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2018
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    Sounds like we have the same manual. Patrick might have a better one though. There are looms at each component of the suspension which is where I might start.

    I’d think compressor loom is most obvious and areas where you’ve done any work or had any work done.
     
  2. ryanjl

    ryanjl Full Access Member

    Posts:
    1,654
    Likes Received:
    776
    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2015
    Location:
    KCMO
    Almost for my own book-keeping purposes and to reference this weekend, a few more threads I've found where the C1A36-01 code is tired to a worn wire:

    http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/d4-suspension-fault-c1a36-01-90-miles-home-154777.html

    http://www.lrforum.com/forum/index.php?/topic/83557-d3-07-feilkode-c1a36/

    https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/suspension-issue-red-light-184365.html?highlight=C1A36-01

    Looks like the wire break is normally either right by the compressor, or behind the US D/S front headlight, of all places.

    Might be something lost in the translation, but I believe the last poster in the first thread above just ran two new wires. Suppose that could be a solution.
     
    scott schmerge likes this.
  3. scott schmerge

    scott schmerge Full Access Member

    Age:
    43
    Posts:
    456
    Likes Received:
    168
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2018
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    Ryan, that’s good news hopefully- especially with how easy the headlights are to remove. Let us know if you find it! Sounds like you’re on the right track now. Apologies for leading you astray on the valve bodies. Sounds like they needed a clean up anyway- but, still...
     
  4. ryanjl

    ryanjl Full Access Member

    Posts:
    1,654
    Likes Received:
    776
    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2015
    Location:
    KCMO
    Looked at all the wiring behind the front headlight; didn't see anything bad. Opened up the compressor cover and looked at all the wiring in there; didn't see anything bad. Disconnected the battery the whole time I did this. When I reconnected, the error codes are all still there.

    My date with the dealer remains.

    At least swapping out my spare tire winch for a new one went well today.
     
  5. scott schmerge

    scott schmerge Full Access Member

    Age:
    43
    Posts:
    456
    Likes Received:
    168
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2018
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    Dang. Sorry my friend. Glad it’s functional for the time being. Hope they find the issue for you quickly.

    Would love to know the cause when they get it sorted.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  6. ryanjl

    ryanjl Full Access Member

    Posts:
    1,654
    Likes Received:
    776
    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2015
    Location:
    KCMO
    Yeah, everything works fine for day-to-day driving. I just can't adjust the suspension, and it won't let me use any of the terrain programs. For some reason, it's no longer dinging at me to not drive over 30, so that's a win.

    I'm hoping they find the problem quick. What's more, I'm hoping it's a cheap part like an exhaust valve or something. If it is, I'll probably just have them do it.
     
    scott schmerge likes this.
  7. ryanjl

    ryanjl Full Access Member

    Posts:
    1,654
    Likes Received:
    776
    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2015
    Location:
    KCMO
    Well, this could be something. Realized today that I never got around to checking out the suspension relay. Pulled it, and, although I'm not sure, it's conceivable it's the original relay and wasn't changed by the dealer when they did my compressor. Very plausible, as my CPO warranty probably wouldn't pay for something that wasn't just flat-out bad at the time. In fact, now that I think of it more, it's almost assuredly the original relay, unless my dealer just wanted to do me a solid.

    I'm not really sure how to test a relay, so I went to an auto parts store to see if they could do it, with the relay in my pocket and not installed in the car. As I drove, the vehicle behaved the same as it has the last few weeks. I scanned the codes, and got the same codes I've been getting. O'Reilly's had a relay tester, but I couldn't figure out how to work it, and the kids there didn't have a clue, either.

    At this point, I figure I might as well just buy a new relay for $22 and see if that fixes the problem.
     
  8. scott schmerge

    scott schmerge Full Access Member

    Age:
    43
    Posts:
    456
    Likes Received:
    168
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2018
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    try swapping it with a similar relay? This could be a good possibility...
     
  9. ryanjl

    ryanjl Full Access Member

    Posts:
    1,654
    Likes Received:
    776
    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2015
    Location:
    KCMO
    Well, ****ing $43 later*, and it's not the relay.

    My date with the dealer looms.

    At this point, I think it can only be the EAS ECU, wiring, or the compressor. Not sure what else.

    *Dealer pricing. Any place I could find it online wouldn't get it to me before my Dec 11 dealer appt without me paying $20 or more shipping.
     
  10. scott schmerge

    scott schmerge Full Access Member

    Age:
    43
    Posts:
    456
    Likes Received:
    168
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2018
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    I’m done guessing- but will throw one more idea. Any chance you spilled anything in the switch? Could be causing the short. It’s a long shot- id say at this point I’d roll the dice and let the dealer find it.

    my guess is they’ll be able to diagnose in an hour or two. If so you’re out $130-200 and can fix it yourself if you’d like. Might be worth the cost of repair just to be done with it, but could also be a simple $100 fix that they want to charge you $1000 for...
     

Share This Page