Starting issue

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Jasevo3rs

Active Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2020
Posts
31
Reaction score
7
Location
Houston, TX
Hey all

About a month ago I experienced an issue with the LR4 not starting. Battery seemed to be the cause and I replaced with a H8 AGM.

I still experienced a few issues of her 'clicking' but not turning over. After browsing the forums tried resetting the starter motor relay (remove, leave 20seconds, replace) to no avail. Then read one reply to slowly depress the accelerator pedal, push the starter button until she kicks over and when she does kick over release the accelerator pedal. Hey presto worked....

Had to do this a few times to get her started and thought maybe the ECU needs to be reset to recognize/calibrate to the new battery. Anyway... seemed to sort herself out and hasn't been an issue... until yesterday!

Again, she's just clicking when pressing the starter button - sounds like the starter solenoid. However if I complete the accelerator pedal 'trick' she starts. This obviously suggests to me that it's not the starter motor.

Any ideas??

I don't have an IID tool.................. yet!

Thanks in advance.
 
Last edited:

Jasevo3rs

Active Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2020
Posts
31
Reaction score
7
Location
Houston, TX
Bump...

Any inspiration or idea's welcome before I head to a mechanic...

BTW - After two days of using the 'accelerator pedal trick', she is now behaving again and starting every time? These intermittent problems are always the worst to remedy!
 

Tapps33

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 23, 2019
Posts
301
Reaction score
181
Location
Bath, Maine
Yes, as I learned....thankfully not the hard way...anytime you swap the battery, you need to go in and reset the calibration on it. Also, if the battery you replaced was rated different...say H7 vs. H8, you need to amend the CCF for it so the computer know what the base state is supposed to be.

Long story short, the computer “learns” the battery. If yours died, then chances are the computer was telling the alternator to push as much juice to it as it could. By resetting the calibration, the computer treats it as a new battery and again Re-learns the battery state. I have heard horror stories about the alternator pushing over 15V and frying some of the more sensitive boxes in the vehicle as well as their brand new battery. Thankfully, I’ve never experienced this myself.

If you get the iid tool you should be able to reset the calibration as well as change the battery portion of the CCF. I’ll let someone else chime in here as I don’t have one of those particular tools.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
36,268
Posts
218,064
Members
30,497
Latest member
TeriM
Top