Steering wheel shaking after rotor/pads replacement

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ktm525

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Damn thats cheap.

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Gnomad

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I've had warped rotors out of the box, it doesn't hurt to have them trimmed up on the brake lathe. Also, the technician needs to clean the hub before putting the new rotors on or they won't sit flat on the hub.
I recently fought this issue on the wife's car, replaced the front pads and disks, had a pulsing pedal and in the end it was the rear rotors which seemed ridiculous, how could they affect the steering? But the rear rotos fixed it.
 

Azoo

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The bite is amazing, even my wife noticed, she said the brakes felt a lot sharper after i changed them to max brakes.
 

gsxr

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OK just to confuse the issue.

2) I also had two sets of defective rotors that were brand new. They were beyond runout spec because China. Now I check rotor runout before buttoning everything back up. There is a way (access point) on the backside of the rotor shield that will allow a shop to check rotor runout without taking off the wheels and brakes.
Keep this in mind when buying cheap parts. It can bite you. ^^^

On a side note, the surface of the hub which contacts the rotor must be cleaned and free of debris or corrosion before installing new rotors. If a bit of crud got between the hub+rotor, it could cause a runout problem even if the rotor itself is straight. It's unlikely to be the cause of your problem, but it's worth checking. I'd start by measuring runout on both sides though.
 

Quijote

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I'm lucky enough to not put that many miles on my LR4, so I just buy OEM stuff at the best price I can get.

I can understand that LR is making a huge profit on their parts and that there could be aftermarket parts for less, but when parts get too cheap, I start to worry about quality.

My 3-series brakes+rotors all around (bought in 2009) were about $400 from the cheapest place I could buy quality aftermarket parts. With a decade of inflation, etc., I could see the larger LR4 brakes being $500-600. The LR4 OEM full kit I bought from BA two years ago was ~$850.

You show me a full kit for anything under $400 or $500 and I'd start to worry.

I'm a mechanical engineer and I can tell you that if someone sells the kit for less, you get less. Lower material quality, less engineering and testing, fewer quality checks, etc.

The kit above seems to be on sale for half off, so that might be ok and a great deal if it really was $400+ originally and they are just trying to move inventory (why?). But beware of those "original MSRP" claims.

This site suggests questionable quality. http://forums.redflagdeals.com/anyone-use-maxbrakes-com-1490475/10/
 
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gsxr

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But beware of those "original MSRP" claims.
Yeah- like Harbor Freight claiming "Save 90%!" when they are comparing their always-on-sale price vs a quality name-brand item. Extremely misleading.

As with most auto parts, it's generally safer to stick with well-known name brands, or buy the OE/dealer parts from an online discount dealer. I haven't had to replace brake rotors (yet) but I did install OEM Ferodo pads, which have been working nicely.
 

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