Hi Markk,
After owning a jeep, Here are some things you may want to consider:
Electronics and processors
These Landrovers cannot be accuratley diagnosed with obd2 diagnostics. Landrover diagnostics have to be used.
For instance:
P1590 - {OBD2 states this is a idle speed control problem auxiliary input error}
P1590 - {Landrover states that this is a rough road line fault}
One diagnostic system, “OBD2” states that it is a idling problem and Landrover codes state this a something tied with the Torque converter lock up, down hill descent, or traction control, loosely termed the 3 amigos.
Sensors and procedures are different from American counterparts, for example brake bleeding has to be done with a diagnostic tool machine, your processor has to be identified to only your vehicle, you can’t swap ecu’s like American vehicles can plus they cost a lot more money.
This is something to really seriously consider if you only have OBD2 diagnostics This won’t work the way you are use to doing things on American vehicles.
Engine
The engine in the disco 2 is the old buick 215 v-8, with no roller cam, and no rotators on the exhaust valves like US engines. The dry cylinder sleeves, “ these are not wet sleeved engines”, are straight, un - flanged and made of steel, while your block is made of aluminum. This creates a thermal condition of dissimilar materials. Many mechanics blame a blown head gasket on this thermal condition as a, “dropped liner”, but in reality at about 210 degrees operating temperature the cylinder liner actually moves around .004” of an inch away from the head gasket ring , this releases the tension on the head gasket between the liner and the head. This releases the tension between the head and the head gasket between the liner and the head, and reduces the heat sink value on the head gasket steel ring, {this is why when you remove the old head gaskets on a land rover the steel ring on the head gasket is usually yellowish or has a burnished color}, causing premature head gasket failure. Now note what I said, the head to liner distance is getting larger by .004” not the head separating from the block, but the liner actually grows 50% shorter than the aluminum block walls. And since the stock land rover liners seat at the bottom of the bore, and on the main bearing saddles the expansion ratio starts at where it seats, at the bottom of the bore, not the top.
Expansion ratio of steel is 6 parts per million per degree
Expansion ratio of aluminum is 12 parts per million per degree.
No real such thing as a dropped liner according to popular belief, it is a thermal problem with dissimilar materials. And there is only one bullet proof cure, Top flanged liners, sometimes called top hat liners in the British market.
Oil pump is an eccentric gear centered at the front of the crankshaft. This sometimes breaks. $150.00 plus 6-8 hours.
Head bolts must be replaced every time you remove the head, they are not regular bolts, but a special designed stretch bolt. Their is a tightening sequence principle that must be followed although contrary to popular belief, and the service manual, as long as the principle is adhered to the sequence can be changed. The principle is uniformly and incrementally tightening the head down. The actual order doesn’t matter. In testing the book vs. torque standards I found the service manual, “again” in error as it says to tighten all bolts to 15 ft. lbs. then 90 degrees more in sequence, then a additional 90 degrees for final torque. This is bogus, and utter nonsense. My findings after doing this left the 3 long head bolts at 50 - 58 foot pounds of torque, while the short head bolts read 68 - 72 foot pounds of torque. I found that almost an additional 90 degrees was required on the long bolts for a total of 245 - 270 degrees before the long bolts achieved the 68 - 72 foot pound equivalent to the short bolts. This makes the tension and torque on all bolts even. Due to the dissimilar materials of the steel bolts and aluminum heads it needs a stretch bolt design. Don’t go buying studs for this engine, you won’t be happy with the long term effects.
The window regulator plastic wheels will fail, the grease lube used at the factory deteriorates them. This is designed obsolescence, and not sold separately, you have to go to Land rover, and buy the whole assembly….$180.00 or better if I remember correctly.
Maf sensors fail periodically………$400.00 or better.
Crank position sensors fail and are around $200.00 and so is the cam position sensor, falling around $350.00 or so.
You will probably want to get a Disco without ACE, active cornering enhancement, if you plan to do a lot of off roading, it’s just something else that goes wrong that you won’t miss, and stay away from the rear air bag suspension, trust me on this one.
I recommend using Amsoil in the Transmission, transfer case and differentials. Engine I use Delo 400 10-30 valvoline 10-30 or any group 3 oil will be more than required, synthetics are not required as group three oils hold up to almost 500 degrees or better, your engine is dead at around 250 degrees. Against popular belief Mobil 1 is not a true synthetic, but a high level group 3 oil, good oil, but not a true synthetic. Remember Synthetics where developed for jet aircraft engines that turn around 60,000 rpm and dealing with temperatures well over the 500 degree range, a far cry from what our automotive engines are asked to do. You’ll know you are getting a true synthetic oil when you are coughing up around $12.00 or better per quart.
Whatever your choice is on the vehicle you like I wish you well.
Land rover Discovery model has a look my wife loves and no one can talk her out of it, including me……lol. I do agree with her and think they are quite attractive looking myself, although I beat my 04 Ford ranger up off road every day, and have never done a thing to it, I can’t say the same for our 04 Discovery, But the way it looks, wish I could.
Just remember:
A bird in the hand always beats two in the bush.
Chongo
