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ftillier

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My passenger side cover froze to the foam insulation at the A-pillar end of the hood, so when I opened the hood a few days ago I think it pulled the cover off. It did not snap back in so I suspect a broken clip or two, so also interested where you got replacements.
 

ryanjl

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I hope you're having fun with all this cleaning, it's really having a great impact :). I used this stuff in the past for restoring plastic, it works well and lasts a reasonable time:


Can you comment where you got the plastic clips for the A-pillar, I get some wind noise on the highway and would like to clean and reseat my covers. I found these these:


They are a different model number and price from what you posted in your excel spreadsheet???

Thanks.
The Atlantic British ones are the ones you want. IIRC, Land Rover changed the part somewhere along the line.

These are a disposable part in that they should be replaced every time you remove the A-pillar trim.
 

D_Walt

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I hope you're having fun with all this cleaning, it's really having a great impact :). I used this stuff in the past for restoring plastic, it works well and lasts a reasonable time:


Can you comment where you got the plastic clips for the A-pillar, I get some wind noise on the highway and would like to clean and reseat my covers. I found these these:


They are a different model number and price from what you posted in your excel spreadsheet???

Thanks.
I bought the pack from Atlantic British, and installed. However I also put weather stripping around the edges and that really snugged it up to the metal. Now there is almost 0 movement in the a-pillars and no highway speed noise whatsoever. Here is the weather stripping I used -

Screen Shot 2023-02-03 at 3.30.24 PM.png
 
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D_Walt

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You're doing the right things. Keep it up. If you're a DIYer, I highly recommend getting a Gap IID Tool BT. The tool is a bit pricey, but worth it's weight in gold.

The charging fault with a new battery could mean a few things. First off, replacing the battery will require you to reset the bms charging profile, because these trucks are too smart for their own good with the pwm charging. This can be done with the Gap IID Tool. If you don't have it readily on hand, try to unplug the bms connector on top of the (-) negative battery terminal and you should get a constant 13.8v with a dash light on. If it's not 13.8v, then you might have an alternator on it's way out, but I'd try to run the "Battery Replacement" function on the Gap IID Tool first.
So I plan to purchase the GAP IID tool in the near future - but don't yet have one. The battery is old, so if I'm understanding this correctly I could go to autozone, pick up an H8, and drop it in? Or do I need a Gap tool or the dealer to install a battery?

Thanks!
 

D_Walt

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Coolant work, if it's never been done, I'd highly recommend overhauling the ENTIRE cooling system. I broke it down to the cost of oem parts and it would be less than $800 if DIY.

Water Pump LR097165 - $289
Water Pump gasket LR049370 (2x) - $32ea ($64)
Oil cooler pipe LR028136 - $32
Oil cooler pipe o-ring LR030593 - $11
Front crossover pipe LR018275 - $78
Rear crossover pipe LR109402 - $128
Thermostat LR032135 - $101
Front coolant temp sensor LR041442 (eurospare vs hard to find oem) - $23
BMW brass bleed screw - $6
Coolant LRN2279 (Concentrated, I believe) - $38
Total cost = $770 before tax and shipping
Peace of mind for the next 100,000k = PRICELESS!

I'm sure you can find better deals if you really searched around. I highly recommend sticking with oem on cooling parts, The only non-oem parts would be the water pump gasket, coolant temp sensor (hard to source), bleed screw, and coolant. I completely flushed out the coolant till clear to swap in dexcool. dexcool is abundant everywhere and most of my trips are very remote and could pick up cheap dexcool anywhere.


Vibration, there's a whole thread on this https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/2013-lr4-weird-humming-noise.30757/post-239237. I recently did this myself and it helped a lot.

Damper bolt IYP500080 - $2
Damper LR094511 - $53

Edit: Almost forgot, swap out swollen nuts to solid 1 pieces. Something like this, https://a.co/d/69jJLmF.
Two more questions for you -

1. Are the Eisen lugs a good quality? I have brand new lugs I ordered from FCP but could return those if it's worth swapping to the solid Eisens.. Kind of unbelievable some of these design flaws (like not being able to remove lugs unless you have a extended breaker bar)

2. I can look at service bulletins and diagrams and understand mechanicals pretty well, also decent with a wrench but my experience is limited. The coolant service makes me nervous, should I just pay a shop to do it so it's done?
 

Longtrail

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I bought the pack from Atlantic British, and installed. However I also put weather stripping around the edges and that really snugged it up to the metal. Now there is almost 0 movement in the a-pillars and no highway speed noise whatsoever. Here is the weather stripping I used -

View attachment 22933
Very nice - Thanks.
 

djkaosone

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So I plan to purchase the GAP IID tool in the near future - but don't yet have one. The battery is old, so if I'm understanding this correctly I could go to autozone, pick up an H8, and drop it in? Or do I need a Gap tool or the dealer to install a battery?

Thanks!
Save your money for the Gap IID Tool, it can do it all. You can replace the battery with an H8, but the charging profile will be associated to the previous configuration, which could degrade your new battery.

1. Are the Eisen lugs a good quality? I have brand new lugs I ordered from FCP but could return those if it's worth swapping to the solid Eisens.. Kind of unbelievable some of these design flaws (like not being able to remove lugs unless you have a extended breaker bar)
I don't have much experience with any oem style lug nuts either. I've swapped out to different wheels that required different lug nuts. When I was looking into swapping over to solid lug nuts, there was only 2 options. Nowadays there's more options, so do your research. The link I sent was the first hit.

2. I can look at service bulletins and diagrams and understand mechanicals pretty well, also decent with a wrench but my experience is limited. The coolant service makes me nervous, should I just pay a shop to do it so it's done?
If you can wrench, you can do it. The key is to reduce air gaps and the BEST way is to use a coolant vacuum kit. For less than 1/3rd of a shop/dealer price, you can do the entire cooling system vs partial. If you need help, this is a good group of people to get you what you need.
 

ftillier

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1. Are the Eisen lugs a good quality? I have brand new lugs I ordered from FCP but could return those if it's worth swapping to the solid Eisens.. Kind of unbelievable some of these design flaws (like not being able to remove lugs unless you have a extended breaker bar)
I replaced a handful of these with OEM bolts, I think I paid $72 for 5 at the dealer - outrageous, but I'd mangled a few trying to get them off, so couldn't wait for after market. I just rotated the tires a few weekends ago and had to use a 23mm socket to get 4 of the bolts off. These would likely come off with difficulty with the tool kit wrench, if at all, so I'm in the same boat looking for replacements. I'd found the Gorilla brand ones, 75148R, but the Eisen ones are half the cost, so if they're any good I'd like to know too.
 

Longtrail

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I had the same issue with the rear nuts all requiring a 23mm socket and even that was tight... I bought the Eisen chrome wheel nuts last October:


On the box they suggest not using a impact wrenches as this can cause damage to the chrome! I tend to use the air impact wrench to tighten the nut (gently) and then torque it down with a torque wrench by hand (I'm lazy!). I noticed the other day that there's a little rust on the edges! They seem OK and for the cost of OEM ones I'll make them work! So, they're not bad and if you're a little more careful than I am I suspect they'll stay corrosion free!
 

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