Timing chain…

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Jimmy Brooks

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I know we’ve seen enough of these threads but I’m fairly confident that after leaving the truck sitting for 9 days while I was on vacation I was greeted with a dead battery and the chain rattle. This is the first time I’ve heard it and it seems to go away after the truck has been running for a bit. I’ll let you guys judge the rest. Here’s the link to the video.
 
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f1racer328

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Can you film a cold start? Usually you can hear the chain slap around a bit.
 

Jimmy Brooks

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Can you film a cold start? Usually you can hear the chain slap around a bit.
Yup I’ll do it tomorrow when I start it up for the first time. Do you hear any sort of Cain noise though? I feel like it’s more audible in person but it sounds like rattle slapping and I haven’t heard it until I got back. Such a warming welcome home!!
 

ktm525

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Sounds fine to me. Time away made you forget how loud this engines are.
 

jlach993

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It does sound normal to me as well, but then again when its a fairly new issue, it tends to go away when warmed up. Definitely a cold start video would help.
 

Jimmy Brooks

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well good. I Guess some time away from the beast really made me forget. I’ll send a video of a cold start probably tomorrow but I guess I’m just being haunted by the ghost of timing guides.
 

Localschauss

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Good to hear that it working out. I completely understand worrying about things that may not be an issue.
 
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gillygong

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145k miles, 2013 LR4 5.0 with original timing chain.

Can anyone provide opinions on this sound from cold start, and how much slack is on the chain through the oil cap? I'd estimate I could push the chain down like a half inch or so, pressing decently ******* it.

The past month or so, it's been throwing P0305 and P0316 codes together, about once a week with several starts in between. I swapped the coil and spark plug between cylinder 1 and 5 as a test, and the misfire stayed on cylinder 5. The motor is also running kinda rough- I can feel it through the seat. Might be possibly slightly worse when it's cold but hard to tell.

I was thinking to run some redline cleaner through the fuel system, but maybe that's a waste of time/money. Should I have a leak down test or compression test done?

Any advice/tips appreciated! Thank you

 

powershift

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I had a chain and/or cam actuator (clack) issue and before getting it fixed on my '12 V8, I could stick my finger in the oil file hole and when pressing down on the chain it moved. After the maintenance the chain is as stiff as a board. It also had 4 new cam actuators installed, $1k in parts.

The exhaust noise sounds like bad timing to me or possibly a vacuum leak. A measurement to determine too much chain slack is to look at the cam actuator degrees at idle and those numbers can be excessive and cause out-of-time issues. There should be PIDs to show what the timing is too and you could see what it is at idle and compare to spec.

I wouldn't keep driving it around until you get it figured out, especially not for a daily commute. If the chain breaks then it will be an incredibly expensive repair (let alone be stranded). The valves will break apart as they get pressed against the pistons, metal pieces will get caught in the cylinders and scar the walls and the engine will not be worth much after that.
 

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