What kind of leak is this?

[powershift]

Intake manifold came off this morning. Its easier to work on when it isn't 112F lol. On the plus side its super nice outside. Blue skys, amazing weather and there is a lot of light. What helped me get the intake manifold off was a mirror. I needed to get a mirror to see behind the intake manifold to disconnect the coolant hose attached to the manifold in order to pull it out of there. I reached around the wire loom and with a mirror and flashlights I removed the hose with pliers to release the hose clamp and then I just pulled that ****.

I taped off the air intake on the heads so nothing drops in there. Wider blue masking tape would be better, painters tape I think it is called. The auto parts store didn't have alcohol and I wanted to use that to clean the heads and intake manifold surfaces where they but up against each other.

Here is a view of the carbon deposits on the back of the valves. 97k miles.

 

[powershift]

Well my easy bolt replacement turned into bigger job. 1/2 of the original plastic bleed screw is stuck in the hole. Going to try an easy out.

Did the easy-out work to get the bleed screw out? I need at least one more parts run since I need to get that bleed screw. I might get an easy out kit to have on hand if mine breaks.

 

[powershift]

Here are the tools I used to get the rear crossover mounting bolts out:

The seam looks like it is failing since it was leaking on that side. There are other breaks in the seam elsewhere:

Drivers side coolant port for the crossover, the side that is leaking:

Passenger coolant port:

I cleaned all the bolts. Here are the intake manifold bolts. All of them had aluminum shavings on them that can skew torque measurements:

Here is the ****** that mounts to the passenger side. It did not want to come off and I kind of tweaked on it and pulled it since it wasn't coming loose. Not sure if it looks OK?

 

[powershift]

I went to install the rear crossover pipe today since it was only 112F. Looking at the pipe itself doesn't inspire confidence when looking at the mold seam. Seems pretty cheap tbh:

I tightened the bolts evenly cinching each side in more and more and then gave it a seat-of-the-pants final torque on each side and then did a double check:

**** is in there finally. Here is the bleeder cap. Plastic POS, can't believe they would make a plastic screw for such a vital system

 

[Longtrail]

Thanks for keeping us updated; I have this job in my future so seeing the pictures provides some inspiration... I plan to do timing chains at the same time.

 

[ktm525]

Right on it looks like you got the bleeder out. I had to drill mine

 

[powershift]

What has been repeatedly helpful is when I'm not making progress, I'll take a break and sit in an easy chair or meditate in front of the AC. Also working on the project with 10 minutes planned, I've made more progress than if I dedicate a 1/2 day to it to get as much done as possible.

Just now I popped on the coolant hose that connects to the rear crossover in 2 minutes and then walked away. To be fair it is only 92F out too. One step at a time lol. Now all the work that is left is easily accessible.

I did have a check engine light on before I started with no OBD2 reader to pull the code. Right at the beginning I decided to put the intake air channels back together before going further into the project and lower the LR4 so I can get farther into the engine bay, but I didn't tighten the air intake hose clamps and I think that set the red check engine light since it came on for the first time on that startup.

I disconnected the battery and I'm hoping that if I put it all back together right and tighten the air channel clamps, it won't have a code on startup. I'm guessing the MAF or some other sensor detected abnormal pressure from air leaks that I had from not tightening the clamps (I did fit the pieces together though).

 

[f1racer328]

What has been repeatedly helpful is when I'm not making progress, I'll take a break and sit in an easy chair or meditate in front of the AC. Also working on the project with 10 minutes planned, I've made more progress than if I dedicate a 1/2 day to it to get as much done as possible.

Just now I popped on the coolant hose that connects to the rear crossover in 2 minutes and then walked away. To be fair it is only 92F out too. One step at a time lol. Now all the work that is left is easily accessible.

I did have a check engine light on before I started with no OBD2 reader to pull the code. Right at the beginning I decided to put the intake air channels back together before going further into the project and lower the LR4 so I can get farther into the engine bay, but I didn't tighten the air intake hose clamps and I think that set the red check engine light since it came on for the first time on that startup.

I disconnected the battery and I'm hoping that if I put it all back together right and tighten the air channel clamps, it won't have a code on startup. I'm guessing the MAF or some other sensor detected abnormal pressure from air leaks that I had from not tightening the clamps (I did fit the pieces together though).

That code should go away pretty quickly.

I had a reduced performance light pop up after some maintenance, due to not fully seating a connector. Reseated the connection and fired up and all was good. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[Nechaken]

What has been repeatedly helpful is when I'm not making progress, I'll take a break and sit in an easy chair or meditate in front of the AC. Also working on the project with 10 minutes planned, I've made more progress than if I dedicate a 1/2 day to it to get as much done as possible.

Just now I popped on the coolant hose that connects to the rear crossover in 2 minutes and then walked away. To be fair it is only 92F out too. One step at a time lol. Now all the work that is left is easily accessible.

I did have a check engine light on before I started with no OBD2 reader to pull the code. Right at the beginning I decided to put the intake air channels back together before going further into the project and lower the LR4 so I can get farther into the engine bay, but I didn't tighten the air intake hose clamps and I think that set the red check engine light since it came on for the first time on that startup.

I disconnected the battery and I'm hoping that if I put it all back together right and tighten the air channel clamps, it won't have a code on startup. I'm guessing the MAF or some other sensor detected abnormal pressure from air leaks that I had from not tightening the clamps (I did fit the pieces together though).

Drinking beer helps too.

 

[powershift]

I buttoned it all up starting with the intake manifold. After setting it in place I tightened all the bolts by hand and learned the torque sequence. I probably ran through the sequence 10 times lol. This part you can do it wrong and warp the intake. Each time I tightened it in sequence I'd go back to the start and find a bolt that wasn't as tight as it was before indicating that the intake is still cinching down. Here is the YT vid I used and where the diagram came from

For the fuel line (no pics), I learned from that vid that the crows feet increases the torque measurement when fastening the bolt. I torqued them to 13 ft-lbs (spec called for 14.4r ft-lbs) and that seemed like a lot of torque for that nut and there were some crows feet marks on the bolt. Here is the guide to use https://www.tekton.com/blog/how-to-accurately-use-a-torque-wrench-with-a-crowfoot-wrench to get the conversion. The effective length of Torque Wrench doesn't change much, I used 12" even though when I measured the torque wrench the length was closer to 20" and that increased the torque by a few tenths of a point.

I found a part made in Germany, there is some quality here and there:

This is a pic of the slider thing that is plastic and I wasn't sure about it. It dropped right back into place easily w/out a tool

As pointed out by shinckley08 , fill the coolant at the mid crossover. The plastic piece slid off using my finger nail and then I pulled the plug out with a little twist by hand

All buttoned up

Now it leaks worse than when I started! That puddle on the passenger side was from the drips on startup.

It only leaks when the engine is running from the rear passenger side. I can't see the leak so I'm guessing. I'm pretty sure I didn't tighten the rear crossover bolts tight enough. I used a 1/4" ratchet and tightened them hand tight with my hand placement over the center of the ratchet where the pivot point is. I was afraid of stripping the bolts out and errored. That is the only problem I can think of to try and address since it isn't leaking from the hoses. I cleaned the mating surfaces nicely before mounting. I didn't look for a torque spec because my wrench won't fit back there so that is another problem, I'm not sure what they should be torqued to. I could practice on another bolt to check for tightness. Maybe I can get my arm in there without taking the intake off again. Has anyone dealt with this? On the bright side there were no engine codes.