What kind of leak is this?

[powershift]

I grabbed a parts list from this site and spent over $1k, plus the hatch mechanisms. A bit more than I wanted to spend since I'm replacing the entire engine in 2.5 months. I can return the parts I don't need so that is a relief. The parts guy threw in some extras like the other two crossover pipes (one is no longer a pipe?).

I'm trying to plan how to accomplish the repair before tacking the project. I went through the service manual last night and I was thinking about buying a stool or whatever to stand on but realized I could drop the suspension, lol. Maybe that will give me enough reach.

I have the right torx socket now for the bolts at each end of the flange (for lack of a better term). I'm curious about two other mounting holes on the pipe that are circled. The center one and another mounting hole on the right. Are there bolts for those holes? I'm trying to figure out what is mounted there.

 

[shinckley08]

Those holes are for plastic press-in fittings that hold electrical wires in place. You will pop them out of the old pipe and press them into the new.

 

[ktm525]

Can you share the link so others can follow in your footsteps? Thanks.

Just type the BMW part number into google and you will get endless options.

 

[shinckley08]

I was planning on detaching the hose at the clamp, but I haven't done this job before. Will I need to unscrew the bleed screw or can I just leave it alone? I didn't buy that part.

I am very curious about this myself. I have done the front crossover, rear crossover, water pump multiple times and never knew there was a bleed screw. I would button the car back up, remove the small plug on the front crossover pipe and fill. I would then fill the reservoir and run the engine. I believe this is how I was guided by my service advisor at LR hear in Boise. Over time as the engine warmed up it would take from the reservoir and I would add coolant. Its worked for me in all instances...but now I'm thinking I need to research the proper procedure for bleeding/burping the coolant system.

 

[Nechaken]

I am very curious about this myself. I have done the front crossover, rear crossover, water pump multiple times and never knew there was a bleed screw. I would button the car back up, remove the small plug on the front crossover pipe and fill. I would then fill the reservoir and run the engine. I believe this is how I was guided by my service advisor at LR hear in Boise. Over time as the engine warmed up it would take from the reservoir and I would add coolant. Its worked for me in all instances...but now I'm thinking I need to research the proper procedure for bleeding/burping the coolant system.

There are some decent posts if you search.... 3 bleed points on the v8 (heater pipe by battery box, crossover, reservoir). The V6SC has a fourth point, front driver's side leaving the intercooler radiator.

 

[powershift]

I am very curious about this myself. I have done the front crossover, rear crossover, water pump multiple times and never knew there was a bleed screw. I would button the car back up, remove the small plug on the front crossover pipe and fill. I would then fill the reservoir and run the engine. I believe this is how I was guided by my service advisor at LR hear in Boise. Over time as the engine warmed up it would take from the reservoir and I would add coolant. Its worked for me in all instances...but now I'm thinking I need to research the proper procedure for bleeding/burping the coolant system.

If you did it wrong you'd know it. Doing it wrong is when there is an air pocket in there and the engine starts having cooling problems because of air being trapped in the cooling system.

 

[ktm525]

Well my easy bolt replacement turned into bigger job. 1/2 of the original plastic bleed screw is stuck in the hole. Going to try an easy out.

 

[powershift]

I'm waiting for my engine to cool off after a parts run and just verified the tools I bought fit before tearing into it. It looks like I found the right size wrench for the fuel line for anyone else doing this job in the future, 17mm. The drivers side fuel line nut looks a little tight. Is the wrench I bought too long?

I found the hose clamp tool and also got 2 gallons of dexcool. I hope that is enough. I plan on putting a catch bin down underneath and just let it leak out as I remove the parts lol. I picked up a hose pinching tool that looks like scissors, but you pinch the hose and it locks closed. Maybe that will cut down on some leakage. It would make sense to drain the entire cooling system properly and put fresh fluid back in if I were going to put some miles on this engine.

In the first pic it looks like I can remove the rubber cover and that diaphragm looking thing with a tube needs to be removed or moved out of the way for the fuel line wrench to get into that area and swing back-and-forth to loosen/tighten the fuel line nut. It looks like the box on the right side will be in the way too. What all needs to come out to get that nut loose/tight? I'm going to crack the passenger side 17mm nut first with some rags and a catch can if needed to get any fuel that dumps out. That line conveniently happens to be a low pressure fuel line, there is another high pressure line somewhere else.

passenger side nut that is also 17mm and easily accessible:

This is the torx TP27 for the crossover pipe mounting bolts:

I'm a tool fan and the hose clamp tool I have mixed views on. On one hand it is clever but on the other hand a screw driver worked fine for decades. The manufactures needed to cut costs and so now I had to pay for a $30 tool to keep around. If I were keeping this I'd buy some Gates hose clamps that are screw driven.

 

[powershift]

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[steevo]

FCPEuro carry that BMW part number, including a brass version too: https://www.fcpeuro.com/Parts/?keywords=17111712788

If you need one same-day, most parts stores carry Dorman 902-404, it's a 2 pack of the bleed screws. They are M10x1.0 thread if you wanted to replace w/ brass or steel.