Would you buy this LR4?

Shumba

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I have a mid 2013 (August I believe) manufactured LR4. What changes did LR make in 2013 to address this issue? Seems like mine should have any changes/upgrades they made given the later manufacture date. Just curious what the upgrades actually are and if I need to be concerned about this.
Thanks!
Tim
 

jlglr4

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The upgrade primarily is a steel insert into the tensioner rail to prevent tge tensioner piston from wearing into the rail. This video shows the issue and redesign at from about 6:20-6:50.

I think the also swtiched the chain design at some point, but not sure on that.
 

LRMore

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The upgrade primarily is a steel insert into the tensioner rail to prevent tge tensioner piston from wearing into the rail. This video shows the issue and redesign at from about 6:20-6:50.

I think the also swtiched the chain design at some point, but not sure on that.
Would be interested to know at what point LR made the changes with the steel insert post class action. When was the cut off manufacture date I wonder..
 

jlglr4

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The TSB that came out back in 2015 for the timing chain issue only listed vehicles with VINs through 2012: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/MC-10104461-9340.pdf. You could infer that the later vehicles had the upgraded part already, but I’m not sure. The class action included the 2014 model year, and this page suggests that maybe the old tensioners were still being used through 2014: https://www.kgglaw.com/practice-areas/product-liability/timing-chain-class-action/

Not sure if there are papers that could be pulled from that case to shed more light on the situation or not.
 

LRMore

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took it a local LR specialist indy and got the following feedback:

front and rear upper arm bushes damage (control arms) - fronts are costly, garage claims it is pointless to change bushes as issues will persist afterwards so replacing control arms is recommended ($$$$)
brake pads are ok - some grease in between brake pads and disc, apparently a bit of smoke during road test, ok for time being
tyres are ok- minor cracks, nothing to worry about at the moment
mountings - something to keep an eye on in the future, will need to be addressed eventually
rear diff making noise - should be ok for the next 2 to 3 services but eventually it will need to be replaced ($$$$)

Got the price down to $17.5K, and my gut says that even with the control arms and rear diff issues, this is too good a deal to pass up.

Very surprised that at 55K the control arms have enough damage to warrant replacing though.. hope it is not a sign of things to come or this being a lemon
 

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Stuart Barnes

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Sounds like normal for the mileage. I’m surprised about the engine mounts and the rear diff. But they’re not too bad to change from what I read. The front control arms are easy enough, both upper and lower. The rear are a bit more fiddly, have a root around disco3forum in the uk for loads of info on those.
 

LRMore

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Sounds like normal for the mileage. I’m surprised about the engine mounts and the rear diff. But they’re not too bad to change from what I read. The front control arms are easy enough, both upper and lower. The rear are a bit more fiddly, have a root around disco3forum in the uk for loads of info on those.
Yes I was surprised as well to hear about the engine mounts and rear diff needing attention at not even 60K miles, especially as all those miles have been on-road if the seller is to be believed.

are front control arms the type of thing you can leave around the time of the next oil change or is it best to just get them out the way?
 

Stuart Barnes

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Basically with the front bushes you’ll get clunking when going over dips ie. drains in the road or potholes etc. the steering and stability at speed are also affected. Tire wear will be uneven as you can’t get the geometry correct.

it’s an easy job if you’re a basic home mechanic. As you’ll not be dealing with any rust I’m guessing.

what did they specifically say about the diff? Just that it was noisy? I’d start with an immediate oil change and have a good look at how much volume wise as well as what’s in the oil that comes out, ie any bronze flakes, chunks, lumps.
 

LRMore

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Basically with the front bushes you’ll get clunking when going over dips ie. drains in the road or potholes etc. the steering and stability at speed are also affected. Tire wear will be uneven as you can’t get the geometry correct.

it’s an easy job if you’re a basic home mechanic. As you’ll not be dealing with any rust I’m guessing.

what did they specifically say about the diff? Just that it was noisy? I’d start with an immediate oil change and have a good look at how much volume wise as well as what’s in the oil that comes out, ie any bronze flakes, chunks, lumps.
will definitely do an oil change and swap out the control arms as a start.

According to the Foreman, there was a very slight but unusual noise coming from the rear diff. Didn't mention much else, just that it isn't audible if you don't know what to listen for but he felt it needed to be flagged. Doesn't feel it warrants any action for a good while yet, but just something to keep an eye on. I've been intrigued by the lucky8 ARB rear locker but have heard it can be hit and miss about whether they fit certain LR4's.

The Indy have come back and quoted $2200 to replace the front & rear upper arms with OE parts & cleaning the brakes. $1300 with aftermarket, though they claim the exact brand will be based off of what inventory is available. I know that aftermarket can be a crapshoot and usually best to go off brand reputation.

Interestingly they can't seem to tell me what brands the OE parts are, as all their clients go for aftermarket.
 
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LRMore

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Just wanted to update those that were interested - picked it up today for just under $18K.

Drove like a dream, or at least I think it did as the wife promptly took it over for the rest of the day :s::driver:
 

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