Buying a used high mileage 2010 LR4

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sbojangles

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It feels like I've read through a ton of threads all over the internet and have a good idea of issues that need be addressed before any long overland trips as far as preventative maintenance with an LR4. But it's tough to pin down the current value for one of these higher mileage LR4's (I was in the market for an LR3 before seeing this one). Planning on setting up with rack and RTT for mixed daily driving which I don't do much of and camping trips.

Is a 2010 LR4 a worthwhile vehicle to buy in the 10-11k range with over 140k on the clock? 1 owner vehicle with a bible of land rover dealership receipts and recent maintenance ie lower control arms, alternator, radiator, brake vacuum pump timing cover, head gasket, and more. Regardless still going to have it inspected for a clear idea of what might be needed. Just having a hard time figuring out what's reasonable given the ongoing maintenance costs of keeping it running in tip-top shape. A little nervous about the possibility of catastrophic failure if the tranny goes out unexpectedly or some other coolant horror story I've read online.
 

ryanjl

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If timing chain and guides aren't in that stack of receipts, I'd pass.
 

Quijote

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It feels like I've read through a ton of threads all over the internet and have a good idea of issues that need be addressed before any long overland trips as far as preventative maintenance with an LR4. But it's tough to pin down the current value for one of these higher mileage LR4's (I was in the market for an LR3 before seeing this one). Planning on setting up with rack and RTT for mixed daily driving which I don't do much of and camping trips.

Is a 2010 LR4 a worthwhile vehicle to buy in the 10-11k range with over 140k on the clock? 1 owner vehicle with a bible of land rover dealership receipts and recent maintenance ie lower control arms, alternator, radiator, brake vacuum pump timing cover, head gasket, and more. Regardless still going to have it inspected for a clear idea of what might be needed. Just having a hard time figuring out what's reasonable given the ongoing maintenance costs of keeping it running in tip-top shape. A little nervous about the possibility of catastrophic failure if the tranny goes out unexpectedly or some other coolant horror story I've read online.

You mention the stack of receipts and your research (which is great), but other than LCA's, I did not see you mention evidence of any of the important things to look for:

1) Frequent oil changes
2) Crossover pipe(s)
3) Timing chain guide work
4) Transmission fluid change
5) A working e-brake

Finally, remember that if you are not a DIY'er, there are many more things to look for otherwise they can get very expensive (especially at a dealer). For example:

-Diff/T-case fluid changes
-Brakes
-Air suspension/compressor

From what you mention, the previous owner(s) seem to have been good about bringing the LR4 into the dealership whenever things came up symptomatically - again, good to see. But you also want to see what they have done preemptively.
 

sbojangles

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You mention the stack of receipts and your research (which is great), but other than LCA's, I did not see you mention evidence of any of the important things to look for:

1) Frequent oil changes
2) Crossover pipe(s)
3) Timing chain guide work
4) Transmission fluid change
5) A working e-brake

Finally, remember that if you are not a DIY'er, there are many more things to look for otherwise they can get very expensive (especially at a dealer). For example:

-Diff/T-case fluid changes
-Brakes
-Air suspension/compressor

From what you mention, the previous owner(s) seem to have been good about bringing the LR4 into the dealership whenever things came up symptomatically - again, good to see. But you also want to see what they have done preemptively.


Yes, you're definitely right about needing to have work done preemptively. As far as the coolant pipes, fluid changes, timing chain, and suspension that's something I need to do a deep dive on with the receipts and get the pre-purchase inspection done at an indy LR shop to know what's around the corner...

If everything is buttoned up and has been taken care of, is that a price that makes sense for a car this old with this many miles?
 

Quijote

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Yes, you're definitely right about needing to have work done preemptively. As far as the coolant pipes, fluid changes, timing chain, and suspension that's something I need to do a deep dive on with the receipts and get the pre-purchase inspection done at an indy LR shop to know what's around the corner...

If everything is buttoned up and has been taken care of, is that a price that makes sense for a car this old with this many miles?

To be honest, I'm not familiar with the used LR4 market.I happen to have a late V8 with low miles that I ordered myself, so I never check the early high mileage market. That said, all the potential concerns of things that could happen aside, yes it is higher mileage, but it seems to have a lot of dealership records. And that by itself is a GREAT thing.

In general, nothing worries me more when buying a used car than a previous owner who could not afford to care for it properly. Things like non-OEM parts, non-matching tires, trim pieces missing where the owner clearly said "whatever," etc.

An LR4 taken to the dealer for so many years absolutely demolishes that concern and also helps in the sense that dealers LOVE to tell you to fix things prematurely because they are always "inspecting" the car. So unless the owner got a heads up on an expensive repair and decided to sell int instead, that LR4 is probably in very good mechanical condition.

Shy of buying it from one of "us" who worry about all this stuff ahead of time, that LR4 is probably as well as you are going to do.
 

DaytonaRS7

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i was in a similar situation about 5 months ago.

bought a 2011 LR4 HSE LUX with 138k miles.
Paid $10,500 out the door...taxes and registration included. that puts the actual selling price at about $9,200.

Carfax indicated it was at the dealer every 5-10k miles.
None of the major problems were listed as services.
Water pump was replaced 2x.
timing chain was not listed on any service records. I inspected it the best possible through the oil fill hole...poked at it with a screwdriver to see how much slack it had. seemed taught.

i replaced ALL fluids, both crossover pipes, PVC valves, trans filter, spark plugs, engine and cabin filters.
I bought it knowing that repairs needed were vaccum pump (leaking oil), front lower control arm (squeaking), 1 rear shock (loose steering over bumps)

DIY for all the above. ill estimate parts were about $1500-2000.

Shortly after purchase the parking brake failed. I paid for this to be replaced since it is not a fun time. $1800 parts/labor.

I have recently noticed the rear mail seal has a slight leak. it is wet at the bell housing/engine seam at the bottom. there is no sign of oil above, so it really only leaves the rear main seal as the culprit. the car has yet to leave a drop of oil on any surface and the oil level is not dropping anything significant (3k miles and only 1/8 low on the cluster guage), so its not a concern of mine.

If you are not a capable mechanic, run from the car. not because land rovers are bad (even though reputation says otherwise), but because any car with that many miles will have problems. Combine that with the rather comprehensive list or wear and tear items for a vehicle of this weight, most people will go broke if it is brought to a shop for all repairs.
 

sbojangles

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If you are not a capable mechanic, run from the car. not because land rovers are bad (even though reputation says otherwise), but because any car with that many miles will have problems. Combine that with the rather comprehensive list or wear and tear items for a vehicle of this weight, most people will go broke if it is brought to a shop for all repairs.

Yeah I need to be honest with myself. Even with all the maintenance that's been done, I'm rolling the dice. Thanks for sharing your experience. Not being mechanically inclined, I'd be shooting myself in the foot once things start breaking down.
 

avslash

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Be our guinea pig. Buy it and LS swap it. Somebody has to be first...;)

Seriously, though, I agree with the advice given above. If you can't do anything short of timing belt, engine pull, etc., you can easily get into what most people consider serious money for shop labor.

Of course, if you're a car guy, and it scratches that itch for you, then nothing else will do.
 

sbojangles

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Of course, if you're a car guy, and it scratches that itch for you, then nothing else will do.

It doesn't help that my fiance really loves it hah trying to convince her that going Lexus is the smart thing to do hasn't been easy... Besides camping trips, I work from home so it wouldn't be driven much. I've put approx 2k on my BMW in the past 6 months so I'm playing the mental gymnastics that this won't get too much wear and tear and will stay "maintenance-free" once I have a solid baseline outlined by others above. But obviously anything can happen...
 

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