Onboard Spare parts when off-roading/overlanding

[djkaosone]

If there were a valve in that 3 way connector, whereby it wouldn't let any air up the green line (thereby eliminating the potential for major leaks in the green line or at the valve blocks), then I would think it would affect a normally-operating suspension's ability to lower the pressure in an air spring, as I'm fairly certain the air tube is also where the air strut exhausts air pressure.

Am I right in thinking that?

The valve blocks increases/decreases air into the strut. If there's anything obstructing the valve block to the strut, it'll affect normal functionality. So, a 1-way ball valve in between would be bad. It needs to deflate the strut too.

 

[ftillier]

Is the only exhaust at the central valve block, so all valve blocks must work for the system to deflate any corner? I'd probably have a straight connector, and a cap (on the hose from the Schrader valve). When needed, switch which line has the cap and which is connected to the air spring.

 

[ftillier]

Though that works ok for the front where you could have the connections under the hood, but not so much the rear.

 

[djkaosone]

Is the only exhaust at the central valve block, so all valve blocks must work for the system to deflate any corner? I'd probably have a straight connector, and a cap (on the hose from the Schrader valve). When needed, switch which line has the cap and which is connected to the air spring.

Yeah, IMHO, I think the less cuts or points of failure in the lines the better. Hence, my original suggestion of having a straight through union directly to/from the strut and schrader valve. Only use it a catastrophic failure kinda deal.

 

[CRYA]

Yeah, IMHO, I think the less cuts or points of failure in the lines the better. Hence, my original suggestion of having a straight through union directly to/from the strut and schrader valve. Only use it a catastrophic failure kinda deal.

This is how I’m going to plan for my trip. Make a few sets up and have something to make a proper cut if necessary.

 

[djkaosone]

This is how I’m going to plan for my trip. Make a few sets up and have something to make a proper cut if necessary.

I work in IT and had this at my disposal. It works extremely well cutting nylon tubing.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-11230002-Round-Stripper/dp/B000E5R3EC?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1

 

[ftillier]

I haven't verified, but I'd expect getting to the strut tops while the car is down on bump stops would be rather difficult. I like the idea of getting something spliced in in the comfort of my garage that allows quick and easy field access.

 

[avslash]

The way mine is set up was to literally just add extra hose length in the run from the front/rear valve block to each air strut with the extra length pulled to an easily accessible location. Under the grille in front and in the cutout above the rear recovery point out back.

This allows you to take all of the valve blocks and electrics out of the equation if needed. As long as you have a secondary source of compressed air, and as long as the actual air bladder on the air strut is not compromised you can separately inflate each air strut individually.

 

[CRYA]

Yeah I saw a YouTuber do something very similar on a 3. Admittedly I don’t know much about reliability of the push fittings, but my only concern with creating that kind of setup beforehand is that by my count it introduces about 16 new potential spots for leaks (4 new T connectors plus schrader connection point).

 

[avslash]

FWIW, mine has been setup this way, with the addition of four additional connectors when I added the SYA spacers for a minimum of 6 years.

I have never had an issue with any of the additional connectors. Literally, zero.

Just had my first air system related issue in a decade of ownership, and it was the center valve block. Those extra connectors in the system are still chugging along.