2000 Disco Series II continually Stalls out after 10 min. of driving

[planetbrock]

My Disco is driving my crazy. For the past month it has been stalling out after about 15 min. of driving. I replaced the fuel pump, battery, plugs, wires. I have been reading that it likely could be the throttle position censor / crank sensor. So I just purchased one from the land rover dealer ship hear in Cincinnati. I am determined I will fix this myself with the help of THE LAND ROVER GODS here at roverworld.
So I purchased this throttle position censor. But I want to be sure I'm taking off the right sensor. Could anyone help me with a detailed location of this sensor. I think it's on the drivers side underneath the intake manifold. I found a wire leading into what looks like a heat shield. There are two 7mm bolts holding the shield on. Is the Crank Sensor behind that shield. If anyone has any illustrations they could post or email me that would be great.

Also , if that doesn't seem to be the problem anyother suggestions to point me in the right direction. My wife told me if it isn't fixed soon she wants to get a minivan.

SO PLEASE, PLEASE, OH GODS OF LAND ROVER HELP ME OUT HERE.

thanks,
Michael / planetbrock
Land Rover Discovery 2000 Series 2
v8 engine

 

[joey]

I don't think it will be the crank sensor, but I will look for instructions on how to change... I am sure I have posted this before or can find it.

What are the symptoms that happen when it dies... at a stop light? Just driving?

Can you tell me any maintenance history other than fuel pump, battery, plugs and wires... was this issue happening prior to the plugs and wires? When did it start?

any info will help.

 

[planetbrock]

It started about 2 months ago on my home from work. I was parked and it just died while I was coming to a stop. I cleaned the Battery connectors and it fired right up. Then later that night while driving 10 miles down the road I turned it off to get gas. After I filled up it did nothing but crank. Then I had to wait about 1.5 hrs to get it to start again. It made it home. The next day I drove it 5 miles down the road and it did it again. I had to wait three hours to get it to start. After that I had the fuel pump and filter changed. I drove it home turned it off and it would not start again. Now for the past several weeks it dies about 10 minutes after driving. Sometimes the S, M lights flash together continuously when I turn it on. It seems like my hoses are extremely hot for only running for 10 minutes after it dies. Now it's to the point when I start it up it will run for 10 minutes or so and I can't get it to start again for another 5 hours or so. It always dies when I'm either stopped or slowing to a stop. If I'm driving at a good speed it does fine. A couple times while coming to a stop it felt like it was going to die so I quicly dropped it in Nuetral with a steady rev around 2,000 rpms and then I would kick it up in drive and quickly take off. I only did this once in desperation to my Land Rover back home. I also wondered if my Idle setting needs to be adjusted ?? I changed the battery out. Do you think it could be the alternator? I've read a little that Some land rovers come with whats called a spider unit as part of the anti-theft system. How do I know if I have one? And do you think it could be that? If after I install the crank sensor and it continues can you point me in any other directions.

Oh, the check engine light isn't on either. Land Rover said they could diagnose it, however a month before this started happening I took it in to them to fix my abs system and it cost me $4,000.00

Could a bad radiator cause this to happen? I didn't know if Land Rovers were designed to shut down if it's not getting cooled properly to protect the engine?

If you can't tell, I'm clueless. So any help whatsoever is greatly appreciated.

thanks,

planet brock

 

[planetbrock]

Oh and it has about 120,000 miles on it. Just in case you were wondering.

planetbrock

 

[planetbrock]

I forgot to answer one of your questions. No it was not doing this prior to plugs and wires. Before I changed those out it just drove and idled poorly. After I changed those which was Sometime in the winter it ran good for a while.

planetbrock

 

[planetbrock]

I just uploaded a picture aswell of a part land rover just put on during my last visit to them.

could that be a relation to the problem.

 

[joey]

That looks like the IACV: "My question is why did they change it the last time you where in?

Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) (C0641)
The IACV is located on the side of the air inlet pipe on top of the engine. The IACV is used to maintain good quality
idle speed under all operating conditions.
When an engine is running at idle it is subject to a combination of internal and external loads that can affect idle speed.
These loads include engine friction, water pump, alternator operation, and air conditioning.
The IACV acts as an air bypass valve. The ECM uses the IACV to enable the closed loop idle speed calculation to be
made by the ECM. This calculation regulates the amount of air flow into the engine at idle, therefore compensating
for any internal or external loads that may affect idle speed.
The IACV utilises two coils that use opposing PWM signals to control the position of opening/closing of a rotary valve.
If one of the circuits that supply the PWM signal fails, the ECM closes down the remaining signal preventing the IACV
from working at its maximum/ minimum setting. If this should occur, the IACV automatically resumes a default idle
position. In this condition, the engine idle speed is raised and maintained at 1200 rev/min with no load placed on the
engine.
The idle speed in cold start condition is held at 1200 rev/min in neutral for 20 seconds and ignition timing is ********
as a catalyst heating strategy. The cold start idle speed and the default idle position give the same engine speed 1200
rev/min, and although they are the same figure they must not be confused with each other as they are set separately
by the ECM.

In the event of an IACV signal failure any of the following symptoms may be observed:
l Either low or high idle speed.
l Engine stalls.
l Difficult starting.
l Idle speed in default condition.

 

[planetbrock]

It Was The Crank Sensor

Hey,

I finally figured out what was going on with the help of reading through a few forum posts here at lrworld. I was the crank sensor. The part cost me about 90 bucks from the dealership. I searched and searched online for a repair manual to step me through this. I found one that I will post. It took me about

2 hours + four beers (coronas) + 1 good buddy (strictly for bs ing) = a starting Land
Rover.

This forum is great. Really helpe direct me.

It's great to know I'm not the only one out there banging there head, checking all the fuses, replacing fuel pumps, checking all the fuses just in case I forgot one then waking up the next day to do it all again.

planetbrock.

 

[joey]

Well, sorry i was wrong... just didn't sound like a crank sensor issue... but I will keep that in mind for future issues.