Advice needed, stalling with P2279 (intake air system leak) 2012 LR4 HSE 5.0 138,*** miles

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Paulius

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First time poster here, the wife has a 2012 LR4, new to us at 80,000 miles. Dealer said it had the timing job done before purchase. The wife encountered a stalling issue, would turn on and run for a few minutes, then cut off. All electronics remain on and starts right up again after an ignition cycle only to die again. Only code thrown was P2279 and a known evap system leak, both were permanent. I removed and cleaned the throttle body, did the idle relearn and same issue. No vacuum leaks could be heard. So into the shop it went.

The shop calls me and says, timing chain or new engine, and can’t guarantee solving of the stalling issue with only timing chain job. I’m having them price out both but am seriously considering looking for another shop, only issue is there aren’t many shops familiar with LR’s in my area. Anybody have any experience with stalling issues and how ere they fixed?
 

Paulius

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Forgot to mention, fuel pressures read normal up until it dies, then they tank, have been able to save it from stalling a few times with a quick foot on the accelerator but then dies after I let off.
 

Paulius

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Yeah, I was leaning more towards the air intake leak being the cause of the stalling but the tech said he didn’t know what it was pointing to. I’ve done some research and have found some posts that say it could be the low pressure sensor (LR015356) located on the passenger side of the transmission. I just don’t want to end up throwing parts at it and find that I do indeed need a new engine. Here is the post that I’m referencing ( https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/engine-stall-reduced-engine-performance.27927/#post-229459 ). I guess my main question is if it were indeed a timing issue, wouldn’t there be more codes tripped?
 

powershift

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Clogged fuel filters can cause weird behavior like that, but so can a problematic pump. I think it is either one of the two, or it could be both. A lot cheaper than a timing chain or new engine and even when either option is all said and done, you'll still need to fix the problem lol. My pump was replaced at 91k mi.
 

jlglr4

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Sure doesn’t sound like a timing chain issue from your description. What kind of scan tool are you using? When you read fuel pressure, is it rail pressure (high pressure) or the low pressure side of the system? When it runs (before dying) is it running rough or smooth?
 

txfromwi

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I can't say anything definitive, but feels like a fuel issue.

My Austin Marina had a factory bad gas tank and the inner paint lining flaked off, plugging the in-line fuel filter.
Was much the same kind of behaviour as you are describing.

On the Marina, I got a fuel filter that could be taken apart and quickly brushed flakes off - I could do that job in less than 5 minutes and back on the road again....
 

Jimmy Brooks

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Sure doesn’t sound like a timing chain issue from your description. What kind of scan tool are you using? When you read fuel pressure, is it rail pressure (high pressure) or the low pressure side of the system? When it runs (before dying) is it running rough or smooth?

There is no readable value for the low pressure pump. Can you go WOT without any hiccups in the power band? Does it feel like all the normal power? If so I would rule out fuel system. if your not convinced, run some BG44K through it, doubt it will help thought.

Highly doubt it is timing related, when you start it does it run normally before it stalls?

also another thing you can do, if you can get the car to warm up is check fuel trims, short term and long term.

found a jag service bulletin that said, "Check part load breather pipe for leaks or disconnected Check brake vacuum pipe for leaks or disconnected Check intake air system for leaks"

If it were me personally I would check for vacuum leaks via smoke test. I would also make sure that your vacuum pump is working right, how does the brake pedal feel?
 

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