azontodance
New Member
Hey guys, has anyone ever done a timing chain job on LR4 before? Can I handle it on my own? List of tools ?
Mine stopped running, it jumps timing.
Mine stopped running, it jumps timing.
2011 LR4 TIMING JOB
- Thread starter azontodance
- Start date
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You should probably do a search. A wealth of information on this forum that it'd be a shame for people to have to repost again. Also check Atlantic British's youtube page. They have a video on the job.
Spoiler alert: it is not easy.
Spoiler alert: it is not easy.
If you have patience and some wrenching skills, it's doable if you do it carefully without rushing. I've done mine at least twice for different reasons.
My biggest concern about yours is that timing jumped. My buddy's timing jumped and it tore apart a lot of things, including bent valves.
My biggest concern about yours is that timing jumped. My buddy's timing jumped and it tore apart a lot of things, including bent valves.
You need to spend some time (a lot of time) researching this procedure. It's all over the internet and this forum. Once you've done the research you will know if you are capable of doing this. No one can answer that. You'll also have a pretty good idea of the tools involved.
I have not done this on the Jag motor, but I've done it twice (due to a faulty guide failing) on a L322 with the M62. I spent so much time researching that I had most of the steps memorized and could visualize every step as well.
Being that it may have jumped timing, I'd do a leak down NOW, turning crank BY HAND to get TDC (by feel) on each hole to make sure you don't have a bent valve. Also, turning by hand will allow you to feel for any interference.
This will also give you a feel for working on the engine.
I have not done this on the Jag motor, but I've done it twice (due to a faulty guide failing) on a L322 with the M62. I spent so much time researching that I had most of the steps memorized and could visualize every step as well.
Being that it may have jumped timing, I'd do a leak down NOW, turning crank BY HAND to get TDC (by feel) on each hole to make sure you don't have a bent valve. Also, turning by hand will allow you to feel for any interference.
This will also give you a feel for working on the engine.
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I also have this job in my future and like others have recommended I am in the process of "getting the knowledge"; I reckon this is going to take some time! I just watched the following series of videos and although it's a Range Rover Engine that also happens to be super charged there's value in watching it because he actually ends up removing the engine which allows me to also look at the engine in more detail (e.g. rear crossover pipes, timing tools, flywheel locking, etc.). The block is the same engine (AJ133 I think) other than his has the super charger and I think some slightly different tools for timing. Here's the first video in the series, others are linked from the first video:
Atlantic British (not as detailed but more of an overview):
My local Indy shop said it's about 18hours; I'm planning on double that as I like to take my time; I also plan to do the front and rear crossovers at the same time and anything else that needs replacing while I'm in there!
Atlantic British (not as detailed but more of an overview):
My local Indy shop said it's about 18hours; I'm planning on double that as I like to take my time; I also plan to do the front and rear crossovers at the same time and anything else that needs replacing while I'm in there!
Here's the big thread on the topic:
www.landroverworld.org
And another one:
www.landroverworld.org
Diy timing chain
Alright... it has begun. The infamous timing chain noise was just getting louder and I've sourced all the parts and tools to do it myself. This will be an ongoing tutorial/experience from my perspective. If you're doing this it's at you're own risk, and I'll document my experience to help you...
www.landroverworld.org
And another one:
Timing Chain repair costs
Good morning! I am having the timing chain replaced on my 2012 LR4 (75K miles). The rattle had been getting worse and I wanted to get the issue resolved before any more damage was done. I got an estimate from a shop nearby and was hoping someone with more insight that me could say if these are...
www.landroverworld.org
I have done this job in conjunction to an overheat on my 2010 LR4.
As others have stated, it's doable but it is a challenge considering the unknowns. If you have skipped timing, you should be removing the heads to inspect for bent valves, stretched valve guides and damage to pistons and replace what's damaged with OEM redesigned parts. In my case, I had damaged valves and valve guides but luckily the pistons only had minor valve contact. Valve stem seal replacement and checking valve clearances (replacing tappets to bring the clearances to spec) is also a must otherwise you stand to burn or bend valves. The head gaskets would need to be replaced which requires thorough cleaning of the mating surfaces, new headbolts as they are one time use stretch bolts.
While here, you might as well do all the water components (ie cross over pipes, water pump, thermostat and other misc water pipes and connectors).
All in all, this is still an approx $2000 parts job plus tools (timing tools, proper torque wrench, viscous fan tool kit and harmonic pulley removal tool).
I'm now at 1.5 years and 15k miles since rebuild and am more confident than ever that I can do it again.
As others have stated, it's doable but it is a challenge considering the unknowns. If you have skipped timing, you should be removing the heads to inspect for bent valves, stretched valve guides and damage to pistons and replace what's damaged with OEM redesigned parts. In my case, I had damaged valves and valve guides but luckily the pistons only had minor valve contact. Valve stem seal replacement and checking valve clearances (replacing tappets to bring the clearances to spec) is also a must otherwise you stand to burn or bend valves. The head gaskets would need to be replaced which requires thorough cleaning of the mating surfaces, new headbolts as they are one time use stretch bolts.
While here, you might as well do all the water components (ie cross over pipes, water pump, thermostat and other misc water pipes and connectors).
All in all, this is still an approx $2000 parts job plus tools (timing tools, proper torque wrench, viscous fan tool kit and harmonic pulley removal tool).
I'm now at 1.5 years and 15k miles since rebuild and am more confident than ever that I can do it again.
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