I have this one 6mm hex bolt that I cannot remember where it went! See pic above.
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Thanks so much for the info & link. I hadn't seen your exact procedure for the bleed (followed a similar one w/o raising the tank). I will replace that #7 nozzle (and hope the new one makes a good seal in the water pump) and try again.As for the leak, sounds like you’re leaking at the little elbow (Part #7) - if you’re saying you have another leak behind the pump, then its likely the tube that connects the back of the pump to the oil cooler, or the front crossover where it goes into the block.
As long as you have a leak, I don’t think you’re going to be able to bleed the system properly. It’ll pump air out the leak as it heats up, and suck air back in as it cools down. In any event, there are four bleed points, and you’ll need to get the reservoir raised up about an inch. I posted the manual bleeding procedure here: https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/bleeding-coolant-woes-help-needed.43299/#post-230151.
With regard to the tensioners/pulleys, if they look/sound bad, replace them. Otherwise, I‘d just leave them be and check on them once in a while. They are not too hard to get to as I recall. There is a TSB on one of the idler pulleys, so you do want to catch it before it gets too bad or it can shred the belt.
Good to know. I definitely replaced both o-rings (one pump side & one engine side). So hopefully it's just the check-valve making more of a mess than I expected.The oil cooler tube should have the seals replaced on both ends, so if you only replaced one, that’s a potential problem. They can also get into a crooked position when the pump is pushed on, and one forum member reported that one of the seals got twisted somehow, so it wasn’t sealing properly.