Discussion in 'LR4' started by djmalachi, Jul 16, 2019.
It really kind of is.
Makes you appreciate a cast iron block just a little bit more.
I know...I don't want to face the fact that I can't drive my LR4 forever. And how is it 6 years old already?
Yeah, I took delivery of mine on my oldest son's 6th birthday. He always jokingly calls it his car. I certainly expect to have it long enough for him to drive it. Anyway, he turns 12 at the end of September. Crazy how time flies.
I just detailed it last night. I'll take a photo of it soon before it gets dirty again. Looks pretty good considering it is our main winter car here in New England.
Last evening a big t'storm rolled in and rocked some awesome lightning/thunder/downpour. Just before it started I backed the LR4 out of the garage for a free rinse. Once all the weather drama was over, I took my gin and tonic out to the driveway and squeegee'd the Rover off then pulled back inside. Doesn't everyone do that??
After a trip from Boston to Cincinnati and back it would take a tornado to remove all the bugs that are glued to the front of my LR4.
I can't believe how good the paint is holding up after 105K miles, including winter weekend trips to VT. Even more amazing is how nice the leather seats look with zero wear spots.
Normally, I hate fixes-in-a-bottle. However when faced with a $12k estimate, you have almost nothing to lose by trying. I know one pro shop has reported excellent results with Bar's Leak HG-1, they have fixed multiple vehicles with similar symptoms as yours. Money back guarantee if it doesn't work, and you are only out a couple hours of labor to try it. If you do try it, follow the instructions closely. At a minimum it should let you drive to the dealer:
1) I know I'm the only one who will say this, but yep, see above. No need to remove t-stat.
2a) I'd have the head gasket replaced before shelling out $12k for an unknown, no-history used motor that may need other work done (or, may need the timing chain upgrade).
2b) When the head is removed it (and the block surface) should be checked for flatness. The block is probably fine. If the head is slightly warped it may need to be machined flat. If it's badly warped, which isn't likely, it would need replacement.
2c) I don't know cost for a head gasket job, but I'd bet it's under $5k.
3) You like the truck. I'd fix it. You won't get much selling it as-is. But I wouldn't pay $12k to fix it!
4) His quote of $12k for a used engine (I assume that includes labor) makes me think he doesn't want the work and is quoting a crazy high price to try and make you go away. I may be wrong.
Used 5.0 engines start at $7K right now and go up. I'd want to tear down any "used" engine and redo the HG, etc. Pulling the engine on the LR means lifting the body off frame unless you want to work really hard and that by itself is a 6-8hr process.
I have a 2008 lr2 with the Volvo engine. My mechanic who does overflow for Land Rover and only works on English cars told me to use the blue devil head gasket sealer. You have to put it directly into the radiator so I used K&W instead because I could put it in the overflow tank. It worked for about 6 months. No more smoke out of tailpipes. No more water in oil. Ran great. Put some more in when stared leaking again. Now it has been over a year and no problems. Recently had a water leak from the overflow tank. Firestone did the pressure test and said no problem with engine but water pump is going out. They wouldn't touch it. Brought it to my mechanic and he said it was the overflow tank and also said engine is not leaking anymore. I bought it used and after I had bought it, we found out it had overheated before we bought it. Try the K & W head gasket sealer. It is a small orange bottle. Use the whole bottle
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