DIY Oil Change for LR4

Discussion in 'LR4' started by 94speedster, Feb 28, 2012.

  1. rickyn f355

    rickyn f355 Full Access Member

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  2. gsxr

    gsxr Full Access Member

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    Read more at BITOG - link below. The short answer is "it depends", on a lot of things, including your personal definition of "better".

    https://www.google.com/search?&q=is+thinner+better+site:bobistheoilguy.com


    If thinner oil was The Best Always, every car on the planet would leave the factory with zero weight in the sump. Royal Purple has a 0W-8 super-lightweight oil, would you prefer that over 0W-20? Red Line one-upped then with a 0W-5!


    Also, the AJ133 engine in the LR4 has both VVT (variable valve timing) as well as variable valve lift. Both are controlled by oil viscosity. There shouldn't be enough difference between 0W-20 and 5W-20 to matter, but using anything else might not be a good idea. Quote below from this article.

    "Zero-weight oils are designed to reduce emissions during warm up. If the wrong oil is in the crankcase, it will change the three to five minutes it takes to bring the combustion chamber up to temperature. This will also alter how the variable valve timing works. It can also have implications for the catalytic converter.

    Always use the motor oil viscosity recommended by your vehicle manufacturer. Using a different viscosity (thinner or thicker) may cause oil pressure and oil supply problems, especially in late-model engines with cylinder deactivation and/or variable valve timing (VVT)."
     
  3. rickyn f355

    rickyn f355 Full Access Member

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    i never said the lightest is the best. 0w is the best at startup. the "ideal" all around oil is 0w 40 synthetic.
     
  4. ktm525

    ktm525 Full Access Member

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    So we should all use Mobil 0W-40?
     
  5. rickyn f355

    rickyn f355 Full Access Member

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    using different weight oils isn't like putting diesel into a non diesel car. if i wanted to use one oil weight across all my cars it wld be 0w-40. the rover guy who who services my rovers uses whatever he thinks is best.
     
  6. ryanjl

    ryanjl Full Access Member

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    A night of colossal boredom meets extreme nerdery has me reading more on oil.

    Another reason I found to stick with 5W-20 over 0W-20 is the former will have a lower NOACK rating than the latter.

    Essentially, the NOACK rating tests the volatility of engine oil. The lower the rating, the less oil that gets burnt off when it gets hot (the test heats the oil to 482 degrees F, holds it for an hour, then measures how much was lost).

    This becomes critical in direct injection engines, as less volatility means less engine oil being put back into the intake manifolds. As we've seen here, direct injection engines can have a ton of buildup in the intake manifolds and valves. Anything to help cut back on that helps, and that includes sticking with 5w-20 oil.

    Unfortunately, I haven't found much of a list of the NOACK ratings of 5W20 engine oils. Here's a chart for 5W30:

    [​IMG]

    Here's an incomplete list of 5W20:

    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/18I-xK-pJfhhYMdxC6bhx8cnBLhFZq0AM4a7BtyZzTfc/htmlview
     
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  7. gsxr

    gsxr Full Access Member

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    Thanks for the reminder, Ryan. That is another reason I personally prefer 5W-20 over 0W-20.

    Also nice to see my choice of Red Line is on the correct side of the chart!

    :thrasher:
     
  8. ktm525

    ktm525 Full Access Member

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    Ha running Ultra the last few years now.
     
  9. ryanjl

    ryanjl Full Access Member

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    I've got some Motul ready to go in this weekend, but I can't find the NOACK rating for it anywhere.
     

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