Diy timing chain

Discussion in 'LR4' started by djkaosone, Jan 9, 2019 at 1:20 AM.

  1. ktm525

    ktm525 Full Access Member

    Posts:
    562
    Likes Received:
    159
    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2017
    Location:
    alberta
    Awesome. Bonus points for using LR jack.

    So is the fuel rail stuck on the top of the injectors or when you are pulling you are pulling rail and injectors?
     
  2. Ric in Richmond

    Ric in Richmond Active Member

    Age:
    53
    Posts:
    42
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2017
    Location:
    Richmond
    Replace the crossover pipe as well while you are in there.....it will be next to go bad!!!
     
    doc5339 likes this.
  3. djkaosone

    djkaosone '11 LR4 5.0L V8

    Posts:
    98
    Likes Received:
    46
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2015
    Location:
    SoCal
    Yup, I have it and used it.

    20190111_131322-600x800.jpg
     
    ryanjl and doc5339 like this.
  4. djkaosone

    djkaosone '11 LR4 5.0L V8

    Posts:
    98
    Likes Received:
    46
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2015
    Location:
    SoCal
    The fuel rail sits on top of the top fed fuel injectors. It is firmly stuck on it and takes a lot of force to remove it. The scissor jack trick removes it really easy and takes less than 3 minutes to setup and remove.

    I've previously replaced it and other things less than 6 months ago like the thermostat, water pump and the plastic piece behind it, spark plugs, ignition coils, belts, alternator, cooling pipes, map sensor, maf sensor, and pretty much everything around the engine. This would be the first major project.
     
    Ric in Richmond and doc5339 like this.
  5. djkaosone

    djkaosone '11 LR4 5.0L V8

    Posts:
    98
    Likes Received:
    46
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2015
    Location:
    SoCal
    Another update.

    I really didn't do much, but I was able to remove the all the injectors. If you offroad in sand like Occotillo Wells sand dunes or the Mojave desert, you're in for a treat when removing the injectors. In the injector cylinders there's enough of a gap to keep some souvenir sand from your trip(s).

    I used a vacuum with a straw as a fitting to suck out as much sand around the cylinders before pulling the injector(s). Even when you think you got all of it and pull the injector out there's still a ton of sand in there. The vacuum i used was a rigid 6.0hp 14 gallon shopvac with the car detailer 1.5 inch hose and flat angled attachment. Then i used a single plastic drinking straw, flexible enough to squeeze between the injector and cylinder. I would gently cover the hose attachment and straw gap with my finger to close the gap and increase suction. It works fairly well.

    I stopped here as cleaning the remaining sand off is tedious and I have to use my endoscope to make sure i get all the sand out of the piston chambers or each cylinder.

    Check out injector 3 on bank 1 versus injector 1 on the right. Injector 1 took a while to clean and I have 8 of them...

    Almost forgot to mention that you have to remove both battery compartments to get to the rear injectors on both bank 1 and 2. Remove both batteries, well I have 2. Each side has 3x 13mm nuts and 4x clips holding the sidewalls. Pop it all out like a puzzle piece and you'll have all the clearance for the tool to pop it out. Just make sure the tool is securely attached to the injector before trying to reverse hammering it out. When it's secure it'll take 5-6 good strikes. I had 20+ hammers on one that wasn't fully seated and secure, which hammers it out at an angle causing unnecessary added friction.

    20190111_130923-800x600.jpg

    20190111_132402-800x600.jpg
     
    doc5339 likes this.
  6. ktm525

    ktm525 Full Access Member

    Posts:
    562
    Likes Received:
    159
    Joined:
    Mar 26, 2017
    Location:
    alberta
    That is nasty. Something to be said for throttle body injection. Direct injection and sand do not mix!
     

Share This Page