@jwest Good To Know. I will begin research on the "standard wheel well area modifications"
Sounds like the rods lead to reduced articulation and therefore lower off-road capability because of the reduced tire to ground contact?
Thank you.
1- front wiring harness on driver side that sits against frame. Larger tire will contact frame here just barely, move harness upward roughly 4-6" and zip tie. May need to detach connection points to gain some slack. I recall there being a plastic offset clip there that hangs downward. Reversing it up and reconnecting wiring tube, may be sufficient.
2- frame "horns" at 3 o'clock on driver side (must do both sides). Taller tires scrub it. I 'think 31" 265/65-18 does not but 275/65 32" would for sure. the smaller one might though....
3-rear hvac lines and/or body 'flange/seam' at passenger side 3 o'clock. The seam is on both sides, the tubing is just passenger side (on left hand drive cars). This can be helped by clamping off the coolant line somewhere so that you can disconnect the line here, and add in some more flexible rubber hose for better routing. The goal being to flatten the body standing seam there and remove the bulge in the plastic fender liner. On mine the bulge is cut out, and flat piece riveted in place.
4- oh front bumper probably has some issues but i cannot help because mine was gone within first month so I don't recall. I do know the factory bumper there is super tight past 265/65.
Notes: being an lr4 thread, one must realize that spacers make some rub points worse except the number 1 above.
Frame horn-worse
front bumper-worse,
inner fender liner at full flex upward into fender flare-worse
This also applies to wider offset wheels like the compomotives, BUT, they are only slight whereas spacers, even the 25mm I have, make the situation very tricky.
On tire width, the tightest spot on the UCA is when the suspension is fully drooped.
A couple other bits: left n right wheels do not exactly mirror same clearances due to assembly and probably some other geometry reasons so you must check both sides.
The rear wheels move forward and of course tuck in when raising suspension. Thus, clearance against a slider is tightest when fully lifted. The rear wheels also tuck in at the bottom when lifted vs splay out at bottom and tuck the top when compressed. This helps a lot tucking the rear tires into the fender upper edge and can allow much taller tires to be used if they are narrow enough.
The best size ratio for lr3/4 is 256/70 with 285/60 or esp 285/65 being fairly terrible without a lot of work. 255/70-18 would be the bomb actually
