Lr4 Brakes

[RoverGuy7]

The problem with making the pads last longer, is that you have to make a compromise somewhere else. Conservation of energy at its finest.

You either loose braking force, create noise, create heat, or create much more dust and faster pad wear.

Comparing mileage does not really relate either, as driving doesn't wear the brakes at all, only stopping.

Also, I recommend taking a look for yourself when a shop says it needs brakes, as a lot of places will recommend them when they're just past half way worn down. The light will come on at ~2mm remaining, but its only fitted to one pad per axle, so any of the other three pads could wear faster for a number of reasons.

The same thing goes for rotors. Unfortunately for the owners, brakes pay the technician very well to replace at most dealerships, and it is usually twice as much to replace the rotors at the same time. So between the extra money to be made, and the possibility of poorly worn rotors causing noise, and an upset customer, most of the time the technicians recommendation will be to do both.

I am not trying to justify this action in the least, I do not agree with it, and my shop charges 2/3s of the labor hours (and a much lower rate) then dealerships, and most shops, charge to do brakes.

 

[holygrail]

Swap out brake pads and rotors with aftermarket ceramics pads and Cryo rotors

My wifes 2010 LR4 12,623 miles ...Needed new front and rear rotors and pads ... 1740$
My brothers wifes lr4 13.250 same brake issue, A man at my kids school ...same thing

After just trading in a 2008 sport with 26,000 miles that only needed its front pads replaced once i cant blame my wives driving

anyone driving on there original pads and rotors with 12,000 miles or more ?

My wifes 2010 LR4 12,623 miles ...Needed new front and rear rotors and pads ... 1740$
My brothers wifes lr4 13.250 same brake issue, A man at my kids school ...same thing

After just trading in a 2008 sport with 26,000 miles that only needed its front pads replaced once i cant blame my wives driving

anyone driving on there original pads and rotors with 12,000 miles or more ?

I have a 2011 LR4 HSE and I was shocked when the dealer told me I had to change my pads and rotors. My original pads and rotors lasted me until about 23000 miles. They told me that that was pretty good compared to other LR4 owners. I drive pretty spirited, too. My personal car is a modified BMW 335, so you know I love speed. Whenever I drive my LR4, I try to remember not to drive it like a car.

Anyhow, how did I last until 23,000 miles. I usually drive in Sports mode or S mode. When you're about to slow down, the LR4 senses that and starts to engine brake for you as you start to apply the brakes for a red light or stop sign.

I replaced my brake pads with aftermarket semi-ceramic performance pads and Cryo rotors (cold treated - lasts much longer) for a little cheaper than OEM prices. There aren't too many options but that was a year ago. There's probably more available now. They have slotted and drill rotors for the LR4 now. I have now 46,000 miles on my LR4, exactly double from the last time I changed brakes. I had them inspected and the dealer said they are good to go. My pads have more than half left over.

I'm telling you. Swap out for aftermarket performance pads, they will last you as long as a car. I also swapped the brake pads on my BMW as when I had barely had 1000 miles on them. I now have 55,000 on my bimmer and asked the dealer to let me know if I need to change my pads. I'm looking forward in installing drilled and slotted rotors, but my pads still have about 7000 miles left on them.

The benefit for the LR4, less black brake dust. The brake dust is not 100% eliminated...maybe only about 55%. Except now my dust is more a reddish color. I use Ceramic pads on the bimmer and I have almost 0% brake dust. I'm changing to ceramics next on the LR4.

Hope this solves your brake problem. It did with me. Go to www.brakewarehouse.com for research.

-Chris

 

[holygrail]

Go aftermarket

That sucks that you have had so much brake work completed in such a short period of time. I also own a 2010 and now have 40k. I had to replace the rotors and brake pads at 32k. I drive 70city/30highway mix too. Maybe I've been lucky with my pads and rotors because I would be ****** if I had to do as much work as you in the 3 years of ownership.

Hopefully, LR can address make the newer pads and rotors more durable and last longer.

Please read my previous email. I have 46,000 miles and only changed my pads and rotors that first time. After that, I went aftermarket. I have a BMW and I'm into all that aftermarket stuff. But I never looked into LR4s until I was told to change my brakes at 23,000 mi. That's nuts!! Since then, I hooked up my car. Replaced my air filters to KN&N and upgraded to lighter and bigger 20" wheels with a 6 lbs savings per wheel. I also swapped out my exhaust system to Magnaflow exhausts. I am currently getting about 22 mpg on the highway, local is only 14 mpg. I do a lot of local driving, average speed 30 mph and get a combined of 15 mpg.

Check out the sound clip on Magnaflow's official website. The LR4 sounds like a beast on the outside and still civil in the inside for my wife and little one. Supped up Hondas don't even bother when they hear the exhaust of this V8.

Besides the point...go aftermarket. I'm looking to put on about 40,000 miles on my pads and rotors. So far I have put about 23,000 miles on them and I still have about 65-70 % pad left.

V/r,
CHris

 

[rostov]

FYI
Just changed my rear brake pads. $170 for rear pads and sensor at the dealer (parts only).
Got warning light at 24K (first round). Pads have about 2mm left. I did not check the thickness, but rotors will take another round no problem.
Brake pads set includes pads, new bolts and sliding brackets that makes the job much easier - pretty much no cleaning to do.
The only tricky part is re-plugging the new sensor – had to take the spare down to get to the plug.
While doing that, noticed some rust on the spare (I have a donut) on the upper side, looks like water stays there, will probably get some grease to put on it later.
I jacked the car under lower control arm, worked well, it is a bit spooky when it self-leveling, but works fine.

 

[lexman34]

Please read my previous email. I have 46,000 miles and only changed my pads and rotors that first time. After that, I went aftermarket. I have a BMW and I'm into all that aftermarket stuff. But I never looked into LR4s until I was told to change my brakes at 23,000 mi. That's nuts!! Since then, I hooked up my car. Replaced my air filters to KN&N and upgraded to lighter and bigger 20" wheels with a 6 lbs savings per wheel. I also swapped out my exhaust system to Magnaflow exhausts. I am currently getting about 22 mpg on the highway, local is only 14 mpg. I do a lot of local driving, average speed 30 mph and get a combined of 15 mpg.

Check out the sound clip on Magnaflow's official website. The LR4 sounds like a beast on the outside and still civil in the inside for my wife and little one. Supped up Hondas don't even bother when they hear the exhaust of this V8.

Besides the point...go aftermarket. I'm looking to put on about 40,000 miles on my pads and rotors. So far I have put about 23,000 miles on them and I still have about 65-70 % pad left.

V/r,
CHris

You are so right. It sounds AWESOME! This is a no brainer for me. Question will the dealership give us any issues with swapping out our exhaust and air filters when it comes in for maintenance? Obviously they are not going to assist with any exhaust problems. I swapped out for after marker pads and rotors and they refused to work on the vehicle brakes until i paid for and replaced all pads and rotors. Lesson learned on that one.

 

[brettmess24]

FYI
Just changed my rear brake pads. $170 for rear pads and sensor at the dealer (parts only).
Got warning light at 24K (first round). Pads have about 2mm left. I did not check the thickness, but rotors will take another round no problem.
Brake pads set includes pads, new bolts and sliding brackets that makes the job much easier - pretty much no cleaning to do.
The only tricky part is re-plugging the new sensor – had to take the spare down to get to the plug.
While doing that, noticed some rust on the spare (I have a donut) on the upper side, looks like water stays there, will probably get some grease to put on it later.
I jacked the car under lower control arm, worked well, it is a bit spooky when it self-leveling, but works fine.

Raise the height, and turn on the parking brake and it will not do that. With my lr3 I also opened the tailgate and do this on the lr4 but not sure if it's needed like the lr3. Much safer.

 

[rostov]

Raise the height, and turn on the parking brake and it will not do that. With my lr3 I also opened the tailgate and do this on the lr4 but not sure if it's needed like the lr3. Much safer.

Thanks for the tip! Will try next time.

Not sure about the hand brake - how does it work on lr, would I be able to open the calipers to change the pads??

 

[PDSRover]

2012 LR4 (Brakes)

Well I sent my 2012 LR4 in for it's first oil change at 15K miles, and guess what the dealer told me? I needed rear brake rotors, due to wear. I had them return the old parts.

I can only suspect that either the OEM parts are inferior or something's not right with design. Having to change rotors at this interval is ridiculous.

Maybe someone here can offer some insight on how to prevent excessive wear on the rotors in the future?

Thanks!

 

[lexman34]

Well I sent my 2012 LR4 in for it's first oil change at 15K miles, and guess what the dealer told me? I needed rear brake rotors, due to wear. I had them return the old parts.

I can only suspect that either the OEM parts are inferior or something's not right with design. Having to change rotors at this interval is ridiculous.

Maybe someone here can offer some insight on how to prevent excessive wear on the rotors in the future?

Thanks!

Welcome to the land of the **** poor brakes & rotors life. They set us up good for this as no vehicle should have to replace rotors at 12k. They did the same thing to me. I am only averaging about 15k for pads and less than 30k for rotors. The only way to lessen this is to learn how to do it yourself. NO other way to drive this vehicle but to just drive it. Some of the guys on these posts get very good life out of theirs but i swear they must be driving on highways 95% of the time. If you are a city driver with lots of red lights, you are done!. However as i always say, i love my beast regardless.

 

[ycharlie]

anyone know if we can retrofit the bigger rotors and calipers from the RR on our cars?