Ha Ha. You stole my thunder. The original post in this thread reminded me that my hatch actually crapped out on me in the middle of trip to Colorado forcing me to repeatedly drag everything out through the rear doors. I ordered that recliner handle and originally planned to duplicate that install, but about half way through the process, I began to question the wisdom of cutting up parts that would be hard to replace. So, I came up with a workable, if not quite as elegant solution that didn't require cutting up the subwoofer cover plate or the tailgate trim assembly.. Like @Pfunk951 I hit on the idea of using the existing mounting bracket to secure the new "emergency" cable end. I then zip-tied the cable to the actuator assembly, as well as placing a zip-tie around the factory cable to prevent it from coming loose from it's mounting in the actuator assembly. From there, I routed the emergency towards the right rear and used a Dremel to cut the cable housing (but not the cable itself) at the point where the cable protrudes from the opening that would have been covered by the factory vapor barrier. The cable is then routed through the opening in the tailgate trim where the factory support cables attach to the tailgate. I finished the cable off with a bit of black Krylon and a black bicycle brake cable end cap and Voila...a functional emergency release that is relatively invisible without the necessity of chopping up any of the factory parts. I tried several different routings for the emergency cable, but most of them ended up putting enough resistance on the cable that the friction on the cable would overcome the spring pressure of the actuator assembly. What this means is that you could pull the cable to open the hatch, but then you would have to remove some trim to relieve enough friction for the spring in the actuator to return to it's normal state. The routing I used avoids this, and has worked 100% so far in my testing. This last pic shows the cable routing that was giving me trouble. The curve in the cable, coupled with the friction on the cable from the tailgate trim cap was preventing the actuator from returning to it's normal position. The final routing to the support cable opening provided a straight shot from the actuator assembly, and avoids any pressure on the cable from the tailgate trim cap. I might or might not tie a little lanyard to the cable to finish it off. Haven't decided yet. FYI. My wife now thinks I am a complete goob for laying in the back of the Rover with a Coors lights and grinning like an idiot as I repeatedly opened and closed the hatch with my my new cable...
A couple more pics. 2 zip-ties and that cable isn't going anywhere. The emergency cable also routes out of the actuator cover without any cutting necessary. Everybody drinks beer while modding their Rover, right?
Indeed! Well done- a silver bullet makes all jobs easier.. Looks like we are the night shift on the forum this weekend! Mike
It is a bicycle brake or shift cable. Can't remember which. Procured at a local bike store along with some "cable cappers" to provide a finished end after cutting the cable to length. Almost 2 years on, and that mod still works perfectly btw.
Damn. I recently replaced my actuator (thankfully just as it was failing but before it did) and I had this thread in the back of my mind. But I was in a hurry to get it done and didn’t take the time to route an emergency release. This is now one of those “I should take it apart and do this one of these days” projects that we all know will never get done. Shame, because I, too, enjoy Rover mods that make me grin like an idiot to the entertainment of my wife. @iSurfvilano I beseech you not to make my mistake. Do the emergency release mod while you’re in there!
this thread is a good reminder. I dont have a tailgate issue (yet) but have the parts in order to add a handle to the inside of the tailgate...just incase. Maybe ill push it up on my to-do list before i experience failure.
