LR4 Transmission Fluid Change: Pan Swap Option

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Pfunk951

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This is a good time to clean up under the truck.. We have to get the new pan up there the same way we got the old one out, and we don't want to be bumping the new pan and gasket into dirty stuff. Check the threads on the transmission with the M6 tap chaser (I did a few and they were all clean) and clean the mating surface for the new gasket..

Inspect the pan and magnets:

20170119_175544.jpg


20170119_175650.jpg



When everything is cleaned up, it's time to get the new filter in..
 

Pfunk951

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Step 7. Install New Filter

Locate the hole in the transmission that the filter fits into. It's a little ways up there, and towards the front of the truck:

Hole1.jpg


Place the new filter into the transmission (as shown below), and press up so that:

1. The tube presses into the hole, and
2. The filter rests flat against the bottom of the transmission

20170119_181720.jpg


Notice how clean the mating surface is for the new transmission gasket. This will prevent leaks.
 

Pfunk951

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Step 8. Install Pan.

Place the new gasket on the new pan, and place the pan perpendicular to the vehicle (just as the old one came out- we are going to reverse that process). Make sure that the pan is oriented so that if the pan is rotated clockwise, the drain plug is towards the rear of the vehicle (you don't want to get the pan up there backwards!)..

Lift the pan and gasket up to the transmission and fidget the pan in a clockwise direction until it is in place under the mating holes. Note:

1. Be careful not to hurt the gasket in this process
2. Don't push on the new filter when fitting the pan, you don't want it to come off

Once the pan is up, make sure that all of the holes are lined up with the gasket. Place two of the new bolts on opposite sides of the pan (and through the gasket), lift the pan into place, and screw in the bolts (only a few turns) until the pan is suspended up in place.

20170119_182652.jpg


Now, Place all 21 of the bolts in the holes, making sure that they are going through the holes in the gasket and into the transmission. Some small shifts of the pan/gasket might be necessary to get things to line up, this is why we are only puttng the bolts a few turns..

Once all of the bolts are in, rig up the setup below(10mm) and screw the bolts up until the pan is flush with the transmission- it should get most of them.

20170119_195041.jpg


Torque all to 8Nm. I did this in a star pattern, and then checked all 21 in a circular pattern to ensure I got them all.
 

Pfunk951

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Step 9. Fill Pan.

First, we need to replace the front armor and lower the vehicle. We want the vehicle on a flat surface, and with the suspension at full height, there is plenty of room to get at the fill plug.

Remove the fill plug, and replace catch pan under the fill plug.

Pump in fluid until it begins dripping out of the hole, it will take about 3 liters..

Set E-brake.

Replace fill plug and start the engine. Let it warm up up (in Park) for about 10 minutes and then start monitoring the pan temperature with the IR thermometer- we are are looking for a target range of 40-50 degrees Celsius. Once it gets to 40c, cycle the gears through Reverse, Neutral, and Drive. Return the vehicle to Park. Recheck temperature, if it is above 50c it needs to cool back down prior to topping off.

20170119_210219.jpg


Caution- the exhaust is now hot.

Remove fill plug and resume pumping in more fluid until it begins dripping out. When the dripping slows to about 1-2 drips per second, replace the fill plug and torque to 35Nm. I put in 5 Liters, and took out 5.

Check for leaks, and perform a short test drive (1-2 miles). Re-check for leaks.

That's it!

Many, many thanks to all who helped make this happen.
 
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mbw

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Thank you very much for documenting that! Nice work!

Crazy how much easier that is, and cheaper, than removing exhaust, cross members, engine mounts, jacking up drivetrains... *** was land rover thinking. This part had to be in the list of parts they could use! Lifetime trans... wow.
 

joecool509

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Thanks for all the work! I was looking at doing my LR3 this year. 78K miles.
 

max2105

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Just as an FYI.
I've been through ATF fluid debates with at least two Mercedes Benz vehicles before. Same premise: only the MB approved fluid shall be used or your transmission will explode into orbit...blah, blah, blah...
Someone on a Mercedes list contacted a Valvoline engineer who assured him that the Valvoline MaxLife Dexron/Mercon synthetic ATF was suitable for the Mercedes vehicles in question. I've been using that fluid for at least 80-100K miles on both Mercedes without any problems what so ever. My 2002 ML500 with 140K miles shifts extremely smoothly. My now sold 2001 E320 with over 200K miles has no tranny shifting issues either (I keep in contact with the buyer).

Why is this relevant? On Valvoline's website it says you can use the same exact fluid for the LR4. Have I done so? Absolutely! I've already replaced the ATF in my LR4 twice (just a simple drain and replace procedure without removing the pan/filter). Each time 4 quarts were replaced. This has been done between 10-15K miles ago and the transmission shifts perfectly fine with no adverse effects what so ever.
The transmission needs a quality synthetic fluid which neither MB nor Land Rover manufactures themselves.
The same goes for all other fluids.
I buy said fluid at Walmart for under $20 for 4 quarts, which is cheap and convenient to find.
If it makes you feel better to spend a lot more money for some ATF with magical powers, then by all means please do so but the "cheaper" alternative has worked very well for me.
Just my $0.02...

Sergio
 

roverman2010

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Did this three years ago on my 05 D3.

Ford A/T pan # 9L3Z-7A194-A which was $37, same as the Ford Raptor truck model
Ford filter 7L1Z-7A098-A $30

the A/T gasket FEL-PRO T0518753 (the first #5 could be a S) Amazon $30

got the drain plug fro Summit.
16-feb-2014 045.jpg


Ford tranny fuild, as its the same ZF autobox, 30k no troubles yet. Irs you to you if you want to waste money.

We have abused this Landy in the mountains, dirt roads and having hauled 2ton water tanks back and forth up hills. Has taken it all in stride.
 

mbw

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Thanks for the info. I went ahead and ordered from Rimmer. It is on backorder but im in no hurry. Figured its all together, less hassle, and has gasket, bolts, filter and pan.

I wonder if its worth changing just the fluid (for me at 57k) and leaving the filter alone for now or not. @Pfunk951 Did you check the filter at all to see how that looked? How do you think the fluid looked?
 

joecool509

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Apparently there is an conversion kit also that is made by an OEM supplier. http://www.britpart.com/all-parts/da2142g/
Britpart said roverparts.com can supply the kit but its not listed on their site but are in route from the U.K. Per Roverparts. I reserved mine. 120$
 
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