LR4 Wont turn over

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travair

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Not sure. $8700 was owed or what the bank wanted. Bought new in SC and last registered in Gig Harbor WA. Maybe military owner. I looked at all the GPS locations and none were a home address and the home address in gps was from SC. I wish I could find the old registered owner and ask what was wrong with it. Oh well I planned on spending a few bucks. Hopefully not to many! haha I appreciate all the input!
 

s3hooligan

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I’m no expert but it sounds like it could be the starter. When the starter in my LR3 went bad, I wouldn’t get anything. No click or nothing. Replacing the starter is a pretty easy DIY and the part wasn’t that expensive if I recall correctly.
 

scott schmerge

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Awesome!! Thanks! Assuming the $512 one and not the $2000 one. I’ll call them tomorrow.
Right, the 500 one. You can also get a second vehicle added for a small fee (I think it’s $30). Might be worth having the extra vin for your wife’s rrs.
 

travair

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Thanks for the replies! I just called Lucky 8. They sold it to me for $480 out the door shipped. It'll be here Wednesday. I'm leaving town until next Sat but will have Sun and Mon off next weekend to work on it. Speaking of starters. It there a way like old school to jump across the starter and see it will even turn over? I've had a buddy mention that so I would know if its faulty or not. Anyway thanks again!! I'll keep you all posted!
 

cperez

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Anyway thanks again!! I'll keep you all posted!

Good luck and hopefully it's a relatively simple fix. It sounds like you'lll still be in the win zone even if you need a new engine, given the low acquisiton cost. It was a ballsy call to buy it, but I agree with the positive indicators you mentioned that suggested it had been cared for.
 

ktm525

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Are the fobs opening/closing the doors etc? I assume they are proximity ones?
 

mklinker

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I can help you diagnose why the truck wont start, I just went through this process a few weeks ago.

1. Do you have pressure in the brake system? If you don't, truck won't start.
2. You can test the starter and starter circuit by jumping the relay, it will let you know if the problem is with the ECU or the starter system.

Frankly I wouldn't spend the $500 on a GAP tool before you try a normal OBDII tool... $15 tool from amazon or rent one from autozone.

Test the starter by removing the starter motor relay from the relay box (next to the battery in the engine bay). Under the cover, the relay is labeled "SM"... I want to say it is on the passenger side of the relay bank, close to the front. Pull the relay out.

The plug will look like the blue box on this diagram. Take a short piece of thick-ish wire, and connect pins 30 and 87. Make sure you jump the right pins, or else you run the risk of cooking your ECU: When you connect those two pins, the starter should engage.
Relay-wiring.jpg


No click? Starter bad or bad starter fuse.
Click but no crank? engine seized.
Engine cranks? ECU is not sending a start signal.
 
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travair

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Both fobs there and work and proximity works just fine. As far as brakes they work. We rolled it off the trailer and the stopped the vehicle. It that the pressure you’re referencing? I left town today until Sat and will try that relay trick Sunday.

AAD5FAFA-44AE-4D8D-BCF6-13914C758C9F.jpeg
 

avslash

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Both fobs there and work and proximity works just fine. As far as brakes they work. We rolled it off the trailer and the stopped the vehicle. It that the pressure you’re referencing? I left town today until Sat and will try that relay trick Sunday.

View attachment 9567

On the brakes, I believe he is referring to there not being enough pedal travel to deactivate the safety interlock without hydraulic pressure in the system.

It is a valid point, and I have run into it after doing some brake work.

Try this. Verify battery has a charge and then sit down and stand on the brake pedal as hard as you possibly can while pressing the start button.

Might not be it, but it's easy to try.
 

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