Maintenance Questions

[bushway9172]

2010 with 64k miles. Getting a slight shimmy in my steering wheel around 50-60mph. It does not increase with speed. It is not a wheel balance issue.

This gets me thinking... Who has similar mileage and what kind of maintenance have you done outside the LR recommended service? Should I be doing ball joints, hubs/bearings, control arm bushings, tie rod ends? Any mileage estimate for these items or just as needed? Which item or items in particular would cause a shimmy? Also, would any of these items be covered under my CPO warranty? For reference, I am running rods and Toyo MTs full-time, just looking for some insight. Thanks a lot guys.

 

[Matt]

Had the same issue with a jeep and 35" Mickey T's. Funny thing was it happened shortly after a tire rotation and balance.

I took it in for a rotation and high speed balance to a shop that works on off road vehicles, lifts etc… High speed balance is more precise when using off road tires plus they used a different weight. Problem was solved.

Good luck.

 

[PaulLR3]

Around 60K miles on our LR3 I noticed a small oil spot on the garage floor...saw that it was coming from a control arm bushing. If yours start leaking, its time for new ones. At the same time a bearing started whining. After a week it turned into a howl that sounded like we were running studded mud tires up front. When a bearing goes, you will know it, and it is rather expensive since you need a whole new hub.

I ended-up replacing the front hubs, control arms, ball joints and tie rod ends at the same time. It all added-up to around $2500 but the dealer claimed it would have been $1000 more if done separately.

Around 70K you should change the fluid in the transfer case and differentials, and probably the transmission fluid as well.

 

[Disco Mike]

First, if you were to read your extended warranty, you would see that no mainatnce of any king is covered by them.
As for you question, all other Rovers were to have a full fluid maintance done every. That being said, starting with the LRE, which uses far less lubricant, they don't recommend any changes till 100,000 miles and beyond which is why they have had such a high failure rate with the diffs, t/case and tranny.
What have you done to verify that your tire pressure and roundness are proper?

 

[bushway9172]

Around 60K miles on our LR3 I noticed a small oil spot on the garage floor...saw that it was coming from a control arm bushing. If yours start leaking, its time for new ones. At the same time a bearing started whining. After a week it turned into a howl that sounded like we were running studded mud tires up front. When a bearing goes, you will know it, and it is rather expensive since you need a whole new hub.

I ended-up replacing the front hubs, control arms, ball joints and tie rod ends at the same time. It all added-up to around $2500 but the dealer claimed it would have been $1000 more if done separately.

Around 70K you should change the fluid in the transfer case and differentials, and probably the transmission fluid as well.

Thanks! I actually did the 75k service early since I do a fair bit of off-roading, which included the changing of those fluids.


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[Finlayforprez]

What have you done to verify that your tire pressure and roundness are proper?

Hey Disco Mike,

Do you have any input/advice on how this is to be done? I contacted BFG, spoke with the dealership, and a reputable tire place and they all gave me a similar tire pressure based on the weight of my truck, etc. But, I am curious as to what you recommend since I am still not 100% sure I am running the right pressure. Thanks!

-David